Converting 351C to 45 degree thermostat housing

[Totalled]

Blue RTV

Is obsolete. Ultra black is more oil resistant, and doesn't break apart under torque.

 

[Wolverine]

I only hope the corroded-beyond-removal-by-socket bolts will react well to being slotted with a grinder.

-Kurt

Soak those bolts/nuts in Aero KROIL. This is hard to find, but if you are dealing with rusty parts, N O T H I N G can match the ability of this stuff to get through the rust and allow you to remove those parts without busting them at the thread or stripping off the head.

Around here in LA, it can be found at McFadden Dale.

 

[cudak888]

Just started her up for the first time and let the T-stat open. Zero leaks - period.

I used nothing but Permatex Form-A-Gasket No #3, which is a close relative to the Indian Head gasket shellac. This is apparently the same stuff my father used on the '78 Lincoln that has the aluminum housing that has yet to leak after 6 years. I figured that was good enough a sales pitch - and it seems to work.

Soak those bolts/nuts in Aero KROIL. This is hard to find, but if you are dealing with rusty parts, N O T H I N G can match the ability of this stuff to get through the rust and allow you to remove those parts without busting them at the thread or stripping off the head.

Around here in LA, it can be found at McFadden Dale.

One of the local bike shops uses Kroil. I'll ask him his source.

Will Kroil also work on aluminum oxide? I'm figuring that's the problem associated with my stuck dizzy.

-Kurt

 

[TheJ]

Glad to hear it worked out for you, nice work. So you didn't use a gasket?

 

[cudak888]

Glad to hear it worked out for you, nice work. So you didn't use a gasket?

I used FelPro's blue gasket, coated on both sides with the shellac. You can see it in its baggie sitting on the fender.

-Kurt

 

[TheJ]

Duh, you said you were going to use it and you have the picture. I'll be over here if you need me. :whistling:

 

[cudak888]

Duh, you said you were going to use it and you have the picture. I'll be over here if you need me. :whistling:

Don't worry, we excuse Dodge owners around here ::tease::

-Kurt

 

[TheJ]

Hahaha, I can take a joke. I don't really have a preference, I think all of the car companies have their pros and cons.

 

[cudak888]

Hahaha, I can take a joke. I don't really have a preference, I think all of the car companies have their pros and cons.

Indeed. Heck, I like old Dodge products myself - I would probably be sitting on a '71 Coronet if there were any in town, but there aren't.

I'm not sold on GM though. Something about Q-jets, 350's, and overall build quality just rub me the wrong way.

-Kurt

 

[gpierce]

I only hope the corroded-beyond-removal-by-socket bolts will react well to being slotted with a grinder.

-Kurt

Soak those bolts/nuts in Aero KROIL. This is hard to find, but if you are dealing with rusty parts, N O T H I N G can match the ability of this stuff to get through the rust and allow you to remove those parts without busting them at the thread or stripping off the head.

You sure about that? I head 50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone is a little bit more effective, and cheaper to boot. Never tried it myself, have only ever used PB blaster.

Greg

 

[marks73]

+1 on the Blaster

 

[Wolverine]

Will Kroil also work on aluminum oxide? I'm figuring that's the problem associated with my stuck dizzy.

-Kurt

I have yet to find anything that KROIL will not loosen. It is just an oil that gets very very very very thin and finds its way between the parts.

 

[cudak888]

I have yet to find anything that KROIL will not loosen. It is just an oil that gets very very very very thin and finds its way between the parts.

10-4.

Speaking of which, Liquid Wrench worked quite well for me today on the master cylinder brake line connections and booster bolts (which were particularly corroded).

The new MC is already in.

-Kurt