Correct finishes for odd ball engine compartment pieces...

[Pastel Blue]

Looking to nail down the correct finishes and application for the following pieces:

Hood hinges

Hood latch release

Engine Compartment shock tower caps (for shock absorbers)

I believe these are a phosphate treated colour, however is there an alternative way to replicate this look? Options include:

Eastwood black oxide/phosphate system (Pt # 15357Z)

Eastwood spray gray (Pt# 10032Z)

Eastwood detail grey (10036Z)

Eastwood Zinc Phosphate (Pt #10281Z)

For anyone that has completed a concourse or close to using any of these products..., any comments on the final results?

Thanks

 

[jpaz]

The 429 mega site tells you how to do them. They say to use Deoxy Does It or Eastwood Fast Etch.

 

[bkdunha]

I used the Deoxy Does it on my hinges, shock tower caps and hood latch. It has been 2+ years now without any problems. I did follow the 429 megasite process. You can buy the Deoxy from Northcoast Mustang. C9ZX utilized a painting process that may be of interest

C9ZX Process:

Prime with Zinc Rich Primer (Krylon RTA 9240) primer, one medium wet coat, one near dry coat, let dry completely. "Mist" on a coat of Cast Coat Iron (Duplicolor DE 1651) to the desired darkness and evenness. Let dry 15-30 minutes. Apply a light to medium coat of Satin High Temp Clear VHT SP 115). Let dry completely. This is part formula and part experimentation, experiment to improve technique.

Here are some pictures of my Deoxy parts.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I ordered the phosphate stuff and did my own. I did the hood latch, hood springs and parking brake with a stainless container I had. Then found a stainless serving tray at Goodwill big enough to hold the hinges for $3.00 along with a hot plate to heat it with. I have not done the hinges yet so might take some pictures. Glass bead the parts and put them in and in a few minutes of bubbling you have exactly what the factory had. Wash them off and spray down with WD-40. You won't loose any points if you do this.

I would have to look for the place I ordered the chemicals but it is the same thing as parkerizing on guns. Here is a link to a Mustang Monthly article on how to do it. http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/paint-body/mump-1103-how-to-apply-phosphate-and-oil-coating/

You can probably find someone local to you that can do it if you don't want to mess with it. I pulled the springs off the hinges before blasting to make them easier to get all areas. Also filed some of the burrs off the edges. If the joints are getting loose you can hammer them some to tighten back up.

Ford used this process so that the parts are not sticky like if you paint them. It doesn't scratch like paint and will last many years with just a little oil applied. I was going to try to heat the parts and dip in melted wax to see what that looks like to also prevent rust. The parking brake mechanism and gas pedal are also phosphate coated. I could not locate any pictures but it turns out like factory.

David

 

[Pastel Blue]

The 429 mega site tells you how to do them. They say to use Deoxy Does It or Eastwood Fast Etch.

Thanks. I have looked that info also. Also looking to get opinions from some here that have used other methods. I do look at the 429 site often also and was quite active on that board since its inception back in the early to mid-90's. I previously owned a Mach J Code for 18 years, before selling in 2010 and then getting the "bug" again, hence my current project... Cheers

I used the Deoxy Does it on my hinges, shock tower caps and hood latch. It has been 2+ years now without any problems. I did follow the 429 megasite process. You can buy the Deoxy from Northcoast Mustang. C9ZX utilized a painting process that may be of interest

C9ZX Process:

Prime with Zinc Rich Primer (Krylon RTA 9240) primer, one medium wet coat, one near dry coat, let dry completely. "Mist" on a coat of Cast Coat Iron (Duplicolor DE 1651) to the desired darkness and evenness. Let dry 15-30 minutes. Apply a light to medium coat of Satin High Temp Clear VHT SP 115). Let dry completely. This is part formula and part experimentation, experiment to improve technique.

Here are some pictures of my Deoxy parts.

That looks good. The way it should be after a restoration. I will look into these processes more to see what is available in my area. Time is short, should have been on this sooner, as the car is getting closer to final body assembly. Will keep at it. Cheers.

I ordered the phosphate stuff and did my own. I did the hood latch, hood springs and parking brake with a stainless container I had. Then found a stainless serving tray at Goodwill big enough to hold the hinges for $3.00 along with a hot plate to heat it with. I have not done the hinges yet so might take some pictures. Glass bead the parts and put them in and in a few minutes of bubbling you have exactly what the factory had. Wash them off and spray down with WD-40. You won't loose any points if you do this.

I would have to look for the place I ordered the chemicals but it is the same thing as parkerizing on guns. Here is a link to a Mustang Monthly article on how to do it. http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/paint-body/mump-1103-how-to-apply-phosphate-and-oil-coating/

You can probably find someone local to you that can do it if you don't want to mess with it. I pulled the springs off the hinges before blasting to make them easier to get all areas. Also filed some of the burrs off the edges. If the joints are getting loose you can hammer them some to tighten back up.

Ford used this process so that the parts are not sticky like if you paint them. It doesn't scratch like paint and will last many years with just a little oil applied. I was going to try to heat the parts and dip in melted wax to see what that looks like to also prevent rust. The parking brake mechanism and gas pedal are also phosphate coated. I could not locate any pictures but it turns out like factory.

David

You seem quite apt at coming up with alternative solutions to getting things done. Thanks for the link for review. Cheers.

I used the Deoxy Does it on my hinges, shock tower caps and hood latch. It has been 2+ years now without any problems. I did follow the 429 megasite process. You can buy the Deoxy from Northcoast Mustang. C9ZX utilized a painting process that may be of interest

C9ZX Process:

Prime with Zinc Rich Primer (Krylon RTA 9240) primer, one medium wet coat, one near dry coat, let dry completely. "Mist" on a coat of Cast Coat Iron (Duplicolor DE 1651) to the desired darkness and evenness. Let dry 15-30 minutes. Apply a light to medium coat of Satin High Temp Clear VHT SP 115). Let dry completely. This is part formula and part experimentation, experiment to improve technique.

Here are some pictures of my Deoxy parts.

That looks good. The way it should be after a restoration. I will look into these processes more to see what is available in my area. Time is short, should have been on this sooner, as the car is getting closer to final body assembly. Will keep at it. Cheers.

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks. I have looked that info also. Also looking to get opinions from some here that have used other methods. I do look at the 429 site often also and was quite active on that board since its inception back in the early to mid-90's. I previously owned a Mach J Code for 18 years, before selling in 2010 and then getting the "bug" again, hence my current project... Cheers

Ken, all I did for the bare metal parts was to media blast them, them I sprayed them with a matte clear coat. I use BASF Glasurit 923-52, down side is it is EXPENSIVE. There is also a product that is made to go over Hot-Rod Black that is a matte clear. I used Hot-Rod black on my hood and lower panels. It's over 2 years now and still looks good. Hot-Rod Black can be bought at CARQUEST.

Our problem here in Canada, is some of the products that are available in the US, are not permitted (legally) here, which is a pi** off. My "bare metal" parts still look good after over 2 years. Just a thought and another option,

Geoff.

 

[jpaz]

Ya Pastel Blue I figured you knew about the 429 site.

I already have some of the fast etch, so I was going to try that with a light coat of a frosted matte clear, but I have to wait for warmer weather.

I got a nice pair of original hood hinges from ebay w/the flat side springs to try this on. The hinges & springs I have on now are some cheap aftermarket ones the PO put on.

bkdunda, the Deoxy process looks great!

 

[Pastel Blue]

Ya Pastel Blue I figured you knew about the 429 site.

I already have some of the fast etch, so I was going to try that with a light coat of a frosted matte clear, but I have to wait for warmer weather.

I got a nice pair of original hood hinges from ebay w/the flat side springs to try this on. The hinges & springs I have on now are some cheap aftermarket ones the PO put on.

bkdunda, the Deoxy process looks great!

Post up the results. Would be interesting to see how that works out.

Interesting enough, my hood hinges are original and date coded to the car, the ram air hood, etc is original to the car and yet the springs are not the flat sided version. I keep checking them to see if I screwed up, but definitely not flat sided... Interesting though, they had no problem holding the hood open with absolutely no sag evident, before I tore down the car. In fact the hinges are in outstanding shape after chemically dipping them to remove all crud. Someone here may know the assembly line process on this aspect and with out my having the build sheet; I can only assume it was an oversight when the car was put together. I would suspect someone was responsible to pull out the correct hinges with the right springs for the hood being installed on the car. Back in the day, I don't think their mindset was totally on quality control...

 

[bkdunha]

Pastel, make sure you have your documentation on that if you plan to show at MCA. That will be a points deduction without good documents. I would think photo's before teardown and clear pictures of dates will help.

Jpaz, I would pull the springs off your hinges before treating. The spring steel takes the treatment at a different rate than the stamped steel of the hinges. The springs will be very dark if you leave them in as long as the hinge.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

While tossing out papers I found the instructions for the Manganese Phosphate process that I used. It is the same as the factory used. Like was stated the springs get darker than the regular steel does. You need them off to blast anyway. You get sort of mushy fuzzy looking build up on the parts and I brush that off back into the container with a chip brush. Then rinse with hot water and blow dry and spray down with WD-40 and they will look exactly like original. The spray on stuff does not look like original for sure. I have seen at shows, looks like paint.

David

 

[jpaz]

Thanks for the great info guys!

 

[Pastel Blue]

Pastel, make sure you have your documentation on that if you plan to show at MCA. That will be a points deduction without good documents. I would think photo's before teardown and clear pictures of dates will help.

Jpaz, I would pull the springs off your hinges before treating. The spring steel takes the treatment at a different rate than the stamped steel of the hinges. The springs will be very dark if you leave them in as long as the hinge.

Well, I can only go with what I am aware of. The hinges are both within 60 days of the build date so I would have to believe these are original. The springs themselves..., possibly changed at some point in the past 45 years, although I don't think so personally. As you know, there is no documentation to prove one way or another. I still believe that mistakes/oversights were Made at the factory, especially on the possibility of a hood hinge mix up. My hinges may have wound up on a 6 cylinder coupe with standard hood... I would be interested to hear what Bob Perkins has to say on this issue with my car...