Engine Bay Detailing - 71 Mach 1

[bkdunha]

I know of several cars that have been restored to concourse level and utilized a refinishing process to emulate the phosphate and oil finish. I think for your intentions with using the car varying styles of refinishing are completely acceptable. MCA rules allow for painted finishes that mimic the factory finish. I am glad we can exchange the various ways each of us can get a finish that looks like the original.

 

[basstrix]

In addition to work being done on my 72 mach, I am working on a pair of 71 rancheros. Recently I have de-scaled all of the fasteners and sorted them in some of my unused fishing boxes (my other sickness is bass fishing)...many of these fasteners were coated with yellow/gold zinc chromate. I'm building cars to drive, so I'm not concerned with concourse correctness, but I do like the look of the properly finished parts....

That being said, is it cost effective to send a bucket of fasteners to the plater and get them re-finished or is it cheaper (in the long run or otherwise) to buy new? I priced the kits at AMK and it looks like I'd spend ~$500/car for most of the hardware. I have yet to contact the local plating shop to see what they would get.

EDIT: Just contacted the local plating shop that does yellow zinc chromate...they have a minimum lot charge of $115 and will take up to ~5gallon bucket worth of parts for that charge. They do all the oil & scale removal but do not guarantee removal of paint.

 

[Stanglover]

I know of several cars that have been restored to concourse level and utilized a refinishing process to emulate the phosphate and oil finish. I think for your intentions with using the car varying styles of refinishing are completely acceptable. MCA rules allow for painted finishes that mimic the factory finish. I am glad we can exchange the various ways each of us can get a finish that looks like the original.

Me too on the last sentence.

I have to admit, my curiosity is up now as to what I can and can't either do or get done in Ontario. We have some strict (and questionable) laws when it come to chemical finishing processes. It is not impossible that I will in the near future, redo some if not all the pained parts that should be chemically treated.

Meanwhile, it's good to know that what I already have is acceptable if it were to be judged by MCA rules............. not that it ever will be.

 

[Stanglover]

In addition to work being done on my 72 mach, I am working on a pair of 71 rancheros. Recently I have de-scaled all of the fasteners and sorted them in some of my unused fishing boxes (my other sickness is bass fishing)...many of these fasteners were coated with yellow/gold zinc chromate. I'm building cars to drive, so I'm not concerned with concourse correctness, but I do like the look of the properly finished parts....

That being said, is it cost effective to send a bucket of fasteners to the plater and get them re-finished or is it cheaper (in the long run or otherwise) to buy new? I priced the kits at AMK and it looks like I'd spend ~$500/car for most of the hardware. I have yet to contact the local plating shop to see what they would get.

EDIT: Just contacted the local plating shop that does yellow zinc chromate...they have a minimum lot charge of $115 and will take up to ~5gallon bucket worth of parts for that charge. They do all the oil & scale removal but do not guarantee removal of paint.

A bucket of bolts trumps many, many bags of overpriced repos. Fine if you only need a few, but!!!!

 

[midlife]

MCA is going away from painted parts that were originally unpainted. I think 2017 is when the new rules go into effect.

 

[Stanglover]

MCA is going away from painted parts that were originally unpainted. I think 2017 is when the new rules go into effect.

That may be important information for those who are doing correct restorations. Thanks for updating.

For me and my original post, it was about sharing what I did to my car and as such, it was not done with any intention of being "correct" in all aspects, but looking correct to the casual viewer as well as satisfying my standards. That being said, very useful comments have been made (and appreciated) that will help others (and me) decide what they want for their cars. Information that may see me re-doing some of my engine bay parts in the future.

For now, the next stage of my never ending resto., is the rear end and under floor, which has never been touched and still as original. That's where my next tax refund will be going!!

Thanks to all for your comments and kudos.

Geoff.

 

[Stanglover]

Engine bay looks really good!

One comment though.

I didnt think there was a valve cover engine decal for the 71 351 4V. I only see decals for the 71 Boss 351 or 429 CJ/SCJ.

The K608 decal appears to be for a 70.

Steve, I only just realized why you mentioned the 608 number. I had not paid attention to it, but you're right, my friends car does have the wrong engine code sticker on it. It should have the same as mine, or at least K613 (? different letter). I'll have to tell him when next I see him.

 

[KT-69]

Looks really good. Back in the day most of the OEM stuff many hold so highly today went right into the trash. First thing I did was rip off all the smog crap and bypass or replace with pre-smog era Ford equivalents. Then the air cleaner right into the trash bin replaced with a low profile Baldwin or Weilland style unit. Ram-air on many would not work with hi-rise or dual tunnel ram manifold and Holley carbs so they got junked as well along the OEM coil, dizzy and spark plug wires, exhaust manifolds, exhaust system. Most ran headers with header mufflers which just dumped out underneath. Rubber hose into the trash replaced with red/blue fittings and stainless braided. Carpet into the trash replaced with shag. So I kind of chuckle when I see so many go to such extremes to be "concourse correct". In reality "concourse" was far different and only those who lacked the mechanical skills or a few who were wise enough to recognize the future collectable value stayed OEM concourse once outside the dealers lot. I posted a photo of what I consider to be a concourse 60-early 70's correct aircleaner a Baldwin Fly eye or Weiand. When I see one of these I know the builder really knew what concourse was.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Great info in your thread. Just thought I would throw in a couple items.

I purchased the "Complete, Correct AMK" bolt kit for 72 Q code vert. NOT. There was not a single bolt that matched the originals exactly. Incorrect makers marks, wrong lengths, just crappy work in my opinion. Yes they were in neatly labeled bags with where they went but not right. We are lucky here local plating shop will work with car guys and do the zinc and dichromate coating, clear or gold. After I clean all the oil, grease and sealer and stuff off I soak in my molasses tank to remove the rust. Much easier than standing at a blast cabinet for hours. If paint is on them you have to strip or blast that off. Then all they need to do is wash and go into barrel plating for zinc which costs very little They dip to get the color can be black, yellow or clear.

On the phosphate coating. Ford did that coating for several reasons. Probably the number one is that it adds lubricity to the parts and some wear prevention. If you want to look at a part that is less likely to rust with the coating look at your gas pedal stamping and parking brake mechanism. They have phosphate coating also. The hood latch and hinges got it to prevent the parts from being sticky like paint will do. It also adds some wear capabilities to the parts. On the shock mounts don't know their reason there. The parts were blasted before being coated and dipped in oil after. The coating does present some rust prevention but over time without occasional oil application you will get rust. They used this coating for years on guns know as Parkerizing. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerizing

As stated by others you can do the coating yourself. I do it outside using a hot plate to heat the solution. A large porcelain coated boil canning pot will do most parts including hinges, without springs so you can collapse. I also have stainless tray from restaurant that works. Go to your local Goodwill to look for what you need, hotplate and containers, no aluminum. You can use plastic if you have an immersion heater.

Great that we can all share experiences so we don't all have to make mistakes and try everyting.

 

[Stanglover]

Great info in your thread. Just thought I would throw in a couple items.

I purchased the "Complete, Correct AMK" bolt kit for 72 Q code vert. NOT. There was not a single bolt that matched the originals exactly. Incorrect makers marks, wrong lengths, just crappy work in my opinion. Yes they were in neatly labeled bags with where they went but not right. We are lucky here local plating shop will work with car guys and do the zinc and dichromate coating, clear or gold. After I clean all the oil, grease and sealer and stuff off I soak in my molasses tank to remove the rust. Much easier than standing at a blast cabinet for hours. If paint is on them you have to strip or blast that off. Then all they need to do is wash and go into barrel plating for zinc which costs very little They dip to get the color can be black, yellow or clear.

On the phosphate coating. Ford did that coating for several reasons. Probably the number one is that it adds lubricity to the parts and some wear prevention. If you want to look at a part that is less likely to rust with the coating look at your gas pedal stamping and parking brake mechanism. They have phosphate coating also. The hood latch and hinges got it to prevent the parts from being sticky like paint will do. It also adds some wear capabilities to the parts. On the shock mounts don't know their reason there. The parts were blasted before being coated and dipped in oil after. The coating does present some rust prevention but over time without occasional oil application you will get rust. They used this coating for years on guns know as Parkerizing. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerizing

As stated by others you can do the coating yourself. I do it outside using a hot plate to heat the solution. A large porcelain coated boil canning pot will do most parts including hinges, without springs so you can collapse. I also have stainless tray from restaurant that works. Go to your local Goodwill to look for what you need, hotplate and containers, no aluminum. You can use plastic if you have an immersion heater.

Great that we can all share experiences so we don't all have to make mistakes and try everyting.

Good info David. I'm sure many others will appreciate your experience.

Thanks for continuing the post,

Geoff.

 

[Pastel Blue]

Great info in your thread. Just thought I would throw in a couple items.

I purchased the "Complete, Correct AMK" bolt kit for 72 Q code vert. NOT. There was not a single bolt that matched the originals exactly. Incorrect makers marks, wrong lengths, just crappy work in my opinion. Yes they were in neatly labeled bags with where they went but not right. We are lucky here local plating shop will work with car guys and do the zinc and dichromate coating, clear or gold. After I clean all the oil, grease and sealer and stuff off I soak in my molasses tank to remove the rust. Much easier than standing at a blast cabinet for hours. If paint is on them you have to strip or blast that off. Then all they need to do is wash and go into barrel plating for zinc which costs very little They dip to get the color can be black, yellow or clear.

On the phosphate coating. Ford did that coating for several reasons. Probably the number one is that it adds lubricity to the parts and some wear prevention. If you want to look at a part that is less likely to rust with the coating look at your gas pedal stamping and parking brake mechanism. They have phosphate coating also. The hood latch and hinges got it to prevent the parts from being sticky like paint will do. It also adds some wear capabilities to the parts. On the shock mounts don't know their reason there. The parts were blasted before being coated and dipped in oil after. The coating does present some rust prevention but over time without occasional oil application you will get rust. They used this coating for years on guns know as Parkerizing. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parkerizing

As stated by others you can do the coating yourself. I do it outside using a hot plate to heat the solution. A large porcelain coated boil canning pot will do most parts including hinges, without springs so you can collapse. I also have stainless tray from restaurant that works. Go to your local Goodwill to look for what you need, hotplate and containers, no aluminum. You can use plastic if you have an immersion heater.

Great that we can all share experiences so we don't all have to make mistakes and try everyting.

Not to throw to much of a monkey wrench in here... many of the AMK bolts I bought for my restoration were extremely close to the original's, a few were not...