Distributor and Ignition Info Thread

[Dave73]

Blaster 2 coil and street fire wire (MSD)

You can use what ever brand plug you prefer. Opinions differ on brands. Just be sure to use the ones that are car specific. You don't want to change the temp of the plug to hotter or colder.

When it comes to the gap do your own research. Look it up. Because the whole purpose of using a hotter coil, increasing to a 45k volt coil is so that you can run a larger gap and have a bigger spark. I replace coil with a hotter coil on every car I have bought since I was 16, and always run large gap. No issues.

I'm just a new guy with basically no posts. So just do the proper research, test and tune for your self. A plug gap is easily changed back if not having good luck with it. (ie: miss firing) You can also buy 2 sets of plugs gap one set stock @ .035 and one set to .065 and go do a few dyno pulls and see. Swap plugs between pulls. Do 3 with each set and the average of each set. That will give you a real world print out of the results instead of just joe blow on a forum with an opinion.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I'm using Accel cut-to-fit wires and an Accel Super Coil firing Autolite plugs through the Duraspark system.

I know a lot of people don't like Accel, but some of us don't feel like paying more money for MSD.

Besides, yellow under the hood pops more than orange or red.

 

[barnett468]

.

Ok

the only things you will gain from a duraspark distributor are"

a shiny look

slightly easier centrifugal advance adjustment.

adjustable vacuum advance.

the pertronix unit.

since you are on a budget, heres another option

buy a rebuilt stocker from rock auto or similar store as Don C suggested . . A1 Cardone p/n 302813 . $44.00 . . or with cap and rotor p/n 842813 . $60.00

buy a vc31 or v311 vacuum advance can . . they are adjustable . . the ones that come with the distributors are not.

buy this spring kit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-925d

the distributor has a lite and a heavy spring . . replace the heavy spring only with a new one.

set your vacuum advance so it adds 6 - 8 degrees of advance . . do this by going thru the hose fitting with an allen wrench and turning the screw clockwise until it just barely bottoms out . . then turn it counter clockwise 5 turns.

buy a pertronix I and put it in your distributor

if you want a high voltage coil, buy an epoxy one like an msd anti vibration coil . . they will not fail.

taylor plug wires are good.

try setting idle timing to 10 degrees btdc with the vacuum advance unplugged, then after setting timing plug it into PORTED vacuum not manifold vacuum.

.

.

.

 

[Don C]

These are the spark plug wires I used, reasonably priced and come with both the male and female distributor terminals.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g825/overview/

 

[Mister 4x4]

.

Ok

the only things you will gain from a duraspark distributor are"

a shiny look

slightly easier centrifugal advance adjustment.

adjustable vacuum advance.

I know you know your stuff on dizzies, so I'm not arguing the point at all (takes a special kind of skill and smarts to pull one apart and have it work better afterward ).

But actually, there are more gains to be had:

• elimination of points (given)
  
• stock size and appearance of distributor
  
• Motorcraft ignition module looks factory (even though it's not)
  
• convenience of replacement parts found at local auto parts stores
  
• continued use with unmodified Ram Air components
  

I'm also not saying it's better or worse than any other solution - just a different option that has benefits not normally considered - especially if you're after the light restomod look, or even maintaining factory appearance (if you hide the ignition module).

 

[4mm]

since you are on a budget, heres another option

buy a rebuilt stocker from rock auto or similar store as Don C suggested . . A1 Cardone p/n 302813 . $44.00 . . or with cap and rotor p/n 842813 . $60.00

buy a vc31 or v311 vacuum advance can . . they are adjustable . . the ones that come with the distributors are not.

buy this spring kit.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-925d

the distributor has a lite and a heavy spring . . replace the heavy spring only with a new one.

set your vacuum advance so it adds 6 - 8 degrees of advance . . do this by going thru the hose fitting with an allen wrench and turning the screw clockwise until it just barely bottoms out . . then turn it counter clockwise 5 turns.

try setting idle timing to 10 degrees btdc with the vacuum advance unplugged, then after setting timing plug it into PORTED vacuum not manifold vacuum.

Will this one work with an OEM Ford Distributor from my 1971 V8 Mustang? Thanks for your help!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-vc192/overview/year/1971/make/ford/model/mustang

 

[Don65Stang]

Ok

the only things you will gain from a duraspark distributor are"

a shiny look

slightly easier centrifugal advance adjustment.

adjustable vacuum advance.

I know you know your stuff on dizzies, so I'm not arguing the point at all (takes a special kind of skill and smarts to pull one apart and have it work better afterward ).

But actually, there are more gains to be had:

• elimination of points (given)
  
• stock size and appearance of distributor
  
• Motorcraft ignition module looks factory (even though it's not)
  
• convenience of replacement parts found at local auto parts stores
  
• continued use with unmodified Ram Air components
  

I'm also not saying it's better or worse than any other solution - just a different option that has benefits not normally considered - especially if you're after the light restomod look, or even maintaining factory appearance (if you hide the ignition module).

I completely agree. Also, Our Tech Advisor c9zx, Chuck, taught me that 351C engines should be set at 16º initial and 36º total advance. To get these numbers I welded a smaller opening on the rotating plate then used a file to reopen the now smaller slot to get 10º rotation which equals 20º mechanical advance. Installed and the engine ran like a scalded dog. Woohoo.

www.7173mustangs.com/thread-timing-advance

I did a post with pics on this somewhere. Do a search (top right corner of every webpage) for Duraspark and my user id and it'll turn up.

 

[Mikes73]

Absolutely, a properly set up duraspark ignition is the way to go. I have mine tuned in like Don does and my car runs flawlessly with instant start ups.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I just went back and re-read this whole thread (Whew!).

I think it's worth mentioning that after I got mine running (using the configuration I mentioned), CZ-75 researched and experimented with a slightly different wiring configuration to make another feature work better (ignition retarding on start-up).

I performed the same re-configuration and wound up smoking 2 brand-new Duraspark Blue Grommet modules after only 5-10 minutes of operation. Poof! Toast. After going back to my "original" Duraspark configuration (as outlined where I got my car to actually run - page 12), I haven't had any issues whatsoever. The car fires right up and runs great!

I only mention this because there is either something wrong with my car's factory harness, the NPD harness, or my wiring, since CZ-75's car is running fine with his improvement. Also, to remind everybody that adapting a completely different major component (like an ignition system) is not without risk or opportunities to fail, despite someone having provided the step-by-step information that worked for them - in other words, one size does not always fit all and results may vary.

 

[Don65Stang]

I just went back and re-read this whole thread (Whew!).

You are now the subject matter expert. :bravo:

 

[Mister 4x4]

Oh great - throw that in my face. :shootself:

 

[73pony]

Anyone try one of these? Seem crazy cheap to me.

http://store.speedmaster79.com/p-4449-ford-351c-cleveland-460-pro-billet-ready-to-run-electronic-distributor-wvacuum.aspx

 

[rocket366]

In the 80's I was a fleet car/truck mechanic overseeing chevys.

Today on my personal 351C build I was happy to dump the original points dizzy

for a chevy type HEI dizzy one-wire with the coil in the cap made for a 351C.

I got it from ebay $45 delivered then put in mechanical advance spring kit and

BAM engine screams now and very reliable!

Note:

My build is total hotrod and not concourse the HEI will not accommodate a stock

air cleaner.

Throwing this out as an option thats all as I'm really pleased with it.

Paul

 

[c9zx]

Do a search on "Procomp Electronics review". Speedster is their new name.

Chuck

 

[turtle5353]

Anyone try one of these? Seem crazy cheap to me.

http://store.speedmaster79.com/p-4449-ford-351c-cleveland-460-pro-billet-ready-to-run-electronic-distributor-wvacuum.aspx

JUNK!!!!!! Run fast and run far!!!! Had one few years ago.... didn't work worth a crap. Burnt up a couple modules and also roll pin sheared. Dropped in a MSD and never looked back.

 

[73pony]

Thanks. I really appreciate the information. Seemed crazy cheap to me. Guess I will have to spring for the MSD this winter.

 

[73mach1whiskey]

Thanks everyone for the advice! I may just go ahead and go with a replacement distributor, pertronix 1, stock coil and then replace the plugs and wires. No emissions testing where i am so single will work for me then. I know the wires are old at least and i've always thought or had better luck with the oem type plugs and wires. however if i choose a flamethrower coil would that cause any issues? i read something where the stock coil may not produce enough voltage for the pertronix. i figure if the flamethrower won't or shouldn't cause issues then i may as well get that to be safe. Thanks

So i did go with pertronix 1, distributor from cardone, adjustable vacuum advance, msd blaster, msd wires although i will be doing cut to fit later cause they are super long. Anyways I keep running into issues so i haven't got it all done yet. but will let you all know how it comes out. The duraspark idea i like and may try that on my 70 f100 next year. Thanks for all the helpful information!

right now life keeps getting in the way and then i ran into issues with the old distributor being stuck which i needed to remove the ac compressor. which prompted a new thread on how to properly delete the AC from the car if anyone has advice there? Thanks http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-removing-air-conditioning?pid=238856#pid238856

 

[Mister 4x4]

I think you got a solid system there. Keep us posted as to how it's working.

 

[trillizo_y_uno]

Ok, so what's the verdict using the factory tach with a Duraspark conversion? After reading this entire thread multiple times, Don65Stang made a mention of it working. But how did you wire it up? Did you just leave the resistance wire connected to coil +?

I currently have a Pertronix I setup which works fine with factory tach and resistance wire to coil+. For various reasons, I want to make the change over to Duraspark.

Thanks!

 

[Don65Stang]

Yup, mine worked fine. I left all the original stuff in place and just wired it in...so don't know if I did it right or wrong but everything worked great and nothing caught on fire. Lol