Duraspark ignition module location

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jasonwthompson

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I got the harness, distributor, and ignition module from a donor car and grafted it in. The ignition module is mounted on the driver's side front apron close to the radiator support, same factory location as the donor. These non-oem modules last a couple of years before dying. Has anyone mounted it in the passenger compartment? I was thinking of adding/grafting in the 2 module connectors to the driver's side right above the kick panel, and leaving the other connectors where they are. My thinking was I could drive around with 2 modules, but only 1 plugged in at a time, or just use the interior mounted module full time. As I am somewhat electrically challenged, does anyone see a problem with this?
 
If you have a “red grommet” module be prepared to replace it once it begins to sue while driving. The blue grommet modules always seemed to be less susceptible to heat and vibration. As I recall they are not interchangeable. Even with our aftermarket MSD system that came with our 73 Mach 1 I have a spare module. The system has been reliable but I still wanted a spare in case it ever did give me grief. I never thought to install a second on donor would be ready to sap no matter where is was. The only downside is the sore one is being subjected to heat and vibration while not in use. Those are the two things I always felt spelled the doom for those modules. Perhaps modules built in later years are more reliable. I worked on those systems back in the late 70s and mid 80s. Other than the ignition modules tending to die while driving on some units they were and are nice systems.

The oem modules were epoxy filled so I never could pull them apart to look for causes of failure. But is always suspected soldering cold joints. They was I tested them was both unorthodox and very reliable. I would connect the secondary ignition system to an oscilloscope and watch it in a superimposed pattern as I would rap or hit the module with a brass mallet (mallet so I would not damage the metal case). If the scope pattern flickered even a little bit with the mallet striking it the module was replaced. Ford thought I was crazy but my warranty numbers with returned modules proving to be bad was so high they thought I was not repairing module issues. Once I showed an engineer my method it became a Ford recommended procedure via a TSB.

So, in closing, the only suggestions I have to share is to consider boxing up the spare and leaving it in the truck away from heat. And if you were to ever mount the active module elsewhere select a location as far from the engine as the electrical leads allow. Heat tends to kill those modules.
 
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