Electric cooling fan

[Jim and Jutta]

Today was hot (in the 80's) got stuck in very, very heavy stop and go traffic on the interstate for several miles and my 71 almost over heated. As soon as I started moving the gauge would drop but when I sat idling in traffic it went much higher than I would like it, it actually spit out some of the coolant when I finally arrived back home.

Any recommendations on using an electric cooling fan and what's involved would be appreciated.

Jim

 

[will e]

Often times a gain at idle will cause problems at speed when you swap out. I have a jeep I 'wheel' here in the phoenix. I have read a lot on electric vs mechanical.

My suggestion would be to add an electric pusher fan on the front that you can turn on when needed. That's if you want an electric fan.

But at 80 degree's you shouldn't be overheating. You have some other issue.

Do you have a shroud?

What mechanical fan are you running?

Are you using a fan clutch (not stock)

how old is the radiator?

How old is the water pump?

Also, your thermostat might be marginal (stuck partially open) and your radiator cap might be bad.

Do you have AC? The pusher fan will help that work much better at idle.

 

[auron73mach1]

If you want to keep your stock fan you want a pusher set up in front and to have it set up to come on at say 200* then do the one wire alternator set up with a 100 amp alternator

 

[Jim and Jutta]

Do you have a shroud?

What mechanical fan are you running?

Are you using a fan clutch (not stock)

how old is the radiator?

How old is the water pump?

Also, your thermostat might be marginal (stuck partially open) and your radiator cap might be bad.

Do you have AC? The pusher fan will help that work much better at idle.

It has a shroud, it has the stock mechanical fan, the radiator, thermostat and water pump were replaced when I had the engine rebuilt a couple of years ago. No AC. It's only at idle sitting for several minutes that the gauge rises to areas of concern. It may be that I'm being overly cautious but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Sounds like a pusher fan is what I'll be adding for those times I get stuck in stalled traffic, any particular fan recommendations?

Jim

 

[Totalled]

I had one of these on my Bronco II as the only fan for a few years. They move more air at lower amp draw then other fans. you would also need a controller for it, unless you just want to control it with a switch and relay manually.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hfm-zfb16s/overview/

 

[Jim and Jutta]

I had one of these on my Bronco II as the only fan for a few years. They move more air at lower amp draw then other fans. you would also need a controller for it, unless you just want to control it with a switch and relay manually.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hfm-zfb16s/overview/

Thanks Pat, that should fit the bill. I think the manual switch for those rare times I get stuck in traffic idling like today will do.

Jim

 

[BigPinoyHunk]

i just did a write up on cooling for our cars.

i would go with a heavy duty 3 row brass radiator or go straight to an alumium radiator. a 600hp iron headed 521 was cooled by my heavy duty 3 row radiator with a 19 inch fan clutch fan with a shroud and i ran a 160 stat. i went to alumium heads and it got hot so i went to a alum radiator and electric fans.

i went with the same fans as QCODE and they are dual 11 inch fans and ran them off of dual relays on a relay switch installed on the intake.

i tell you what though toda it was 105 degrees outside and in my garage it was at least 110. i can keep my 626hp 521 motor cool at 168 and driving around my neighborhood yesterday i can keep it at 160 or 170. the hottest i saw it get was 180 and thats only because thats when my fans will turn on at.

first thing i would do is make sure your system is burped and install a 160 stat. then if you MUST fun a mechanical fan, run a 7 blade flex fan. those things are always engaged but they will ensure they pull a ton of air. HELL, i can sell you a cheap 19 inch 7 blade fan if you like. i used it on my 460. i can even sell you a fan clutch set up off of a 460 f350 with a f150 fan. i keep my spare fan and clutch for the just in case.

I had one of these on my Bronco II as the only fan for a few years. They move more air at lower amp draw then other fans. you would also need a controller for it, unless you just want to control it with a switch and relay manually.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hfm-zfb16s/overview/

Thanks Pat, that should fit the bill. I think the manual switch for those rare times I get stuck in traffic idling like today will do.

Jim

don't use anything unshrouded. and if its shrouded, make sure it has flaps so when you have plenty of airflow it has more access thru the radiator and past the shroud to flow more air. guys with alumium shrouds and one fan, they tend to overheat at cruise because it can't get the air to escape.


http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-cooling-down-the-alum-headed-521

 

[hyena429]

I got a leaky original radiator and never had a issue with over heating down here in the tri cities Jim..And you know we get some serious temps down here...matter fact we breaking into 112 this week.....But i do not have a clutch fan... the clutch fan not going out or something? I seen one go out on my cousins car and it started heating up...I got a plain old "most people hate them" flex fan..Had it on my car long as i owned it.."almost 20 years now"..Fits perfict under my original ac shroud...And even in 110 weather with a original pin hole leaky radiator in traffic...I never had a issue with over heating... mine is not noisy like some flex fans are..lol..One thing i did like about them.No clutch to go bad..Some worry about them robbing a little hp..But its minimal...Just something to think about before going all electric...But electrics are nice

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I went all electric years ago and it always did a good job. I added an all aluminum Griffin radiator and a high flow water pump and I think that set up will cool Chernobyl.

I would start by checking the condition of your cap, thermostat, and your coolant. If the cap is not in good condition it will not allow the system to run at the proper pressure and the systems cooling capacity is designed around it functioning at that pressure level. You need to seal any leaks-I like to put a teaspoon of good old black pepper in a leaking system as it tends to plug the leaks without plugging engine block passages. Better would be a nonleaking radiator.

Also if you are running ported vacuum to your carb, switch it to manifold vacuum which will give you a little more advance at idle and allow the engine to run cooler.sealing the top of the radiator to the core support and blocking off core support openings to force all the air through the radiator will help too. Check that your water pump belt is tightened properly and not slipping and if your fan has a clutch that it is operating properly.

If all the basic checks aren't enough then I would start with a new radiator since you say yours is leaking and then a water pump, preferably aluminum and high flow. I would not go to a pusher style as it gets in the way of the airflow and is less efficient than a pulling style. The only reason to go electric in my mind is for the free horsepower at higher rpm's that you get from eliminating the parisitic drag of a standard engine driven fan. A better radiator is only a few hundred dollars, and a water pump swap is pretty easy with the radiator out.

 

[wwhite72]

The manifold vac, mentioned above, is one of the first thing i would suggest. Takes about 4 seconds to move it, if you do not have it there already.

 

[Totalled]

Jim stopped by this afternoon. He has a newer 3 row rad, stat, cap, and water pump. He has a 17" 7 blade (looks like a flex a lite) flex fan. It barely pulls air thought the rad at idle in park. It also looks like it is sitting a tad deep into the shroud. He has the filler between the core support and rad. I suggested he try a 1/2" shorter spacer, to pull the fan out of the shroud a bit. (IIRC, if its too far in it doesn't draw air as well.) Maybe try an 18" non flex fan, as the existing fan blade pitch is shallow, and they aren't very big blades.