Electric Fan Pictures

[Kilgon]

Looking for electric fan pictures in your engine bay from anyone that is running electric fans. I'm considering to switching over and would like any pictures you can post and info such as likes, dislikes, pros and cons about your set up. I'm pushing the high temperature range during this hot weather while sitting still at lights and stuck in any traffic. Cooling system itself is in good shape, just not getting enough air flow at idle to handle my set up.

 

[tony-muscle]

Interested in reading the answers. I hear more and more people moving towards using dual fans away from a mechanical fan.

 

[Tnfastbk]

I have this set up to go into my car. Going from a single electric to dual. Just an upgrade after the power tour disaster. I had a copy of a stock shroud made and mounted the sing inside of it. Worked well for 10 plus years with no over heating issues.

 

[4kMach1]

Running a champion 3 row radiator with shroud and 2 12" spal fans. Worked great for my setup at the time with the Blueprint Engines 347 stroker and afr heads. Motor made around 420-430 hp. Ran a 180 thermostat and 190 Mr. Cool temp switch for one fan. Which one fan worked great but the second I had wired for key on/off power incase I needed more cooling in stopped traffic. In the future i may add a turbo timer to shut the fan off after a period of running. For the time I drove the car never had an issue.
I will say do not follow champion's instructions for fan wiring. They state to run both fans off one relay and amp breaker first drive i did with it wired that way fried the breaker and relay. Even after some time on the phone with them, sent pictures and what not they still were firm on the wiring. But after I changed it as stated above zero issues. Now on to a bigger badder motor and S/C setup.

 

[Kilgon]

I have this set up to go into my car. Going from a single electric to dual. Just an upgrade after the power tour disaster. I had a copy of a stock shroud made and mounted the sing inside of it. Worked well for 10 plus years with no over heating issues.

Thanks for the reply. Very nice looking on your old one and the new unit. Is your new set up a direct fit or will you need to make any mods. Also, I'm taking for granted that you had upgraded your alternator when you went with your original set up - what alternator did you go with when you made the change? Is your new setup a 2 or 3 row? Been reading about heat transfer and the number of rows and wondering which is the best way to go with if I replace my radiator also. I had my original re-cored about 3 years ago.

 

[Kilgon]

Running a champion 3 row radiator with shroud and 2 12" spal fans. Worked great for my setup at the time with the Blueprint Engines 347 stroker and afr heads. Motor made around 420-430 hp. Ran a 180 thermostat and 190 Mr. Cool temp switch for one fan. Which one fan worked great but the second I had wired for key on/off power incase I needed more cooling in stopped traffic. In the future i may add a turbo timer to shut the fan off after a period of running. For the time I drove the car never had an issue.
I will say do not follow champion's instructions for fan wiring. They state to run both fans off one relay and amp breaker first drive i did with it wired that way fried the breaker and relay. Even after some time on the phone with them, sent pictures and what not they still were firm on the wiring. But after I changed it as stated above zero issues. Now on to a bigger badder motor and S/C setup.

Thanks for the pics and info. Did you have to make any mods when installing yours - looks tight. My plan is to tie into the Snipers efi to control them plus set up a timer so one of them runs about 5 minutes after the engine is shut off. My temps are pushing 210 to 215 while sitting still at a light or in traffic during the hot weather and after turning off the engine they go up to 220 - 225 from the radiated heat. Hotter than I prefer.

 

[jmontes]

Derale 16927 - Contains 2-12" Spal fans attached to a stock radiator. Controlled by the Sniper. Consistently at 192* with or without the A/C running or in traffic.

 

[tony-muscle]

Derale 16927 - Contains 2-12" Spal fans attached to a stock radiator. Controlled by the Sniper. Consistently at 192* with or without the A/C running or in traffic.

Nice. Do you have both coming in at 192 or progressively? Also, do you know how many amps each fan needs? Do you hear the fans at all?

 

[giantpune]

Here's mine. 2 separate fans, each with their own relay. Total fan shroud setup is rated for just under 2000cfm, or 390 horsepower worth of motor. I have the passenger side fan wired with an adjustable thermostat (HDA-3653) and the probe is mounted dead center of the radiator. This way you can get the car hot and turn the adjustment knob and get it set to where the fan kicks on when you want it to. The second fan is on a manual switch I can kick it on if its a hot day or I'm sitting in traffic or a drive through line on a hot day.

Generic overflow can mounting in front of the radiator support. And an external transmission cooler mounted on the front of the radiator.

ITEMS IN YOUR ORDER	SKU	QTY
Z41032 NORTHERN DUAL FAN RELAY AND TEMPERATURE SWITCH KIT	NOR-Z41032	1
Z40002 NORTHERN DUAL 11" ELECTRIC FAN SHROUD - 18 1/8 X 22 3/8 X 2 5/8	NOR-Z40002	1

 

[jmontes]

Nice. Do you have both coming in at 192 or progressively? Also, do you know how many amps each fan needs? Do you hear the fans at all?

One is wired into the Holley temp sensor and comes on at 192* The other is wired into the Holley A/C trigger and runs full time anytime the A/C is turned on. With the A/C off, the single fan is plenty. Each fan draws about 20 amps and yes, you can hear them. They sound comparable to any of the newer cars electric fans. I do run a 110amp 1 wire alternator.

 

[Tnfastbk]

Thanks for the reply. Very nice looking on your old one and the new unit. Is your new set up a direct fit or will you need to make any mods. Also, I'm taking for granted that you had upgraded your alternator when you went with your original set up - what alternator did you go with when you made the change? Is your new setup a 2 or 3 row? Been reading about heat transfer and the number of rows and wondering which is the best way to go with if I replace my radiator also. I had my original re-cored about 3 years ago.

I have a March set up with an upgraded one wire from the start. The radiator is a griffin 3 row and it should fit with no mods as the last one did.

 

[Kilgon]

Derale 16927 - Contains 2-12" Spal fans attached to a stock radiator. Controlled by the Sniper. Consistently at 192* with or without the A/C running or in traffic.

Nice looking set up. What temp were you running before you switched over or did you do this during an engine build? Also, what engine do you have?

 

[Kilgon]

Here's mine. 2 separate fans, each with their own relay. Total fan shroud setup is rated for just under 2000cfm, or 390 horsepower worth of motor. I have the passenger side fan wired with an adjustable thermostat (HDA-3653) and the probe is mounted dead center of the radiator. This way you can get the car hot and turn the adjustment knob and get it set to where the fan kicks on when you want it to. The second fan is on a manual switch I can kick it on if its a hot day or I'm sitting in traffic or a drive through line on a hot day.

Generic overflow can mounting in front of the radiator support. And an external transmission cooler mounted on the front of the radiator.

ITEMS IN YOUR ORDER	SKU	QTY
Z41032 NORTHERN DUAL FAN RELAY AND TEMPERATURE SWITCH KIT	NOR-Z41032	1
Z40002 NORTHERN DUAL 11" ELECTRIC FAN SHROUD - 18 1/8 X 22 3/8 X 2 5/8	NOR-Z40002	1

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View attachment 67100

Glad to see it's working for you. Sounds like a good set up for a carbureted engine giving you control of both fans. That looks like an aftermarket radiator or is it your original with the fans added to it?

 

[giantpune]

Glad to see it's working for you. Sounds like a good set up for a carbureted engine giving you control of both fans. That looks like an aftermarket radiator or is it your original with the fans added to it?

Mine's an aftermarket aluminum radiator. I clamped the shroud in place and drilled some mounting holes there along the top and bottom edge to screw the shroud to the radiator.

 

[duanecr]

I bought a 73 coupe that was missing it's original fan setup and had an aftermarket radiator of unknown origin. I bought a Derale High-Output Dual RAD Fan and Shroud Kit from Summit Racing and installed it. The primary issue was that the fan shroud hit the support at the bottom and had to be modified a tiny bit to fit down all the way. I only had to cut a 1/4" or so on both corners. I ran each fan off a separate relay to control them independently. They are both tied to a thermostat right now, but I'll probably move one to the A/C once I have A/C, which may be a while. Since the radiator was not designed exactly for this car as an OEM replacement, the original brackets didn't work. I designed my own bracket and 3d printed it. I still need to make that bracket out of something more sturdy and may eventually redo it in aluminum on my CNC mill, but it's holding up for now. It does work very well and when it turns on, it brings the temp down quickly. One side pro/con of my setup is that the fan stays on after the car turns off as it's directly wired, with fuses and relays, to the battery. It will turn off after the engine cools down, but not from turning the car off. I see that as both good and bad. Engine temps go down quickly instead of staying hot but you don't want to stick your hands in there for a few minutes after shutting the car off.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

In the last photo; what is that nice looking radiator shroud bracket made out of? Almost looks like carbon fiber.

 

[Kilgon]

I bought a 73 coupe that was missing it's original fan setup and had an aftermarket radiator of unknown origin. I bought a Derale High-Output Dual RAD Fan and Shroud Kit from Summit Racing and installed it. The primary issue was that the fan shroud hit the support at the bottom and had to be modified a tiny bit to fit down all the way. I only had to cut a 1/4" or so on both corners. I ran each fan off a separate relay to control them independently. They are both tied to a thermostat right now, but I'll probably move one to the A/C once I have A/C, which may be a while. Since the radiator was not designed exactly for this car as an OEM replacement, the original brackets didn't work. I designed my own bracket and 3d printed it. I still need to make that bracket out of something more sturdy and may eventually redo it in aluminum on my CNC mill, but it's holding up for now. It does work very well and when it turns on, it brings the temp down quickly. One side pro/con of my setup is that the fan stays on after the car turns off as it's directly wired, with fuses and relays, to the battery. It will turn off after the engine cools down, but not from turning the car off. I see that as both good and bad. Engine temps go down quickly instead of staying hot but you don't want to stick your hands in there for a few minutes after shutting the car off.

Thanks for the pics and info. Nice work on the brackets. I see it as a pro the they stay on after engine shut down to cool the block down especially on these really hot days. You might want to put a switch inline just in case you do need to turn them off. Don't want to see you have to change your username to "4 fingers" lol.

 

[duanecr]

In the last photo; what is that nice looking radiator shroud bracket made out of? Almost looks like carbon fiber.

The bracket is 3d printed out of PLA (plastic). I can print it again using a carbon fiber mix filament, but it wouldn't be true carbon fiber. Reprinting the bracket out of a more durable material is on my long "to do" list for the car.

 

[giantpune]

The bracket is 3d printed out of PLA (plastic). I can print it again using a carbon fiber mix filament, but it wouldn't be true carbon fiber. Reprinting the bracket out of a more durable material is on my long "to do" list for the car.

Yeah. PLA plus heat equals runny goop. I would not use any thermoplastic to mount the radiator, PLA, ABS, or anything else you can print on a home printer. PLA starts softening at 60C (140F). Last thing you want is the radiator bracket giving up the ghost after a bunch of heat cycles up under the hood.

 

[duanecr]

Yeah. PLA plus heat equals runny goop. I would not use any thermoplastic to mount the radiator, PLA, ABS, or anything else you can print on a home printer. PLA starts softening at 60C (140F). Last thing you want is the radiator bracket giving up the ghost after a bunch of heat cycles up under the hood.

I agree that PLA won't hold up for underhood temps. Especially attached to the radiator that will exceed 200F when hot. I can print in nylon which has a much higher melting temp at 260 to 280F and have a printer that can handle that material. If I am exceeding those temps, I have bigger problems than a soft or melting supports, and I may end up going that route. I like the idea of keeping the radiator isolated from metal so that it doesn't conduct electricity and potentially eat away the aluminum through electrolysis corrosion over time. I may redesign in aluminum and just have rubber isolators for vibration and electricity separation.

The other piece is that the radiator is fairly stable without anything holding it at the top. Not that I would want to leave it unsupported. It is held up against the front radiator support and the back is held somewhat by the hoses. Again, not that I would ever want to leave it unsupported at the top even so.