electrical connectors on collant hose?

[mustangandy]

I've started to go though my 1971 429 cobra jet and haven't been able to confirm what exactly is missing from these two spade connectors. Can anyone shed some light please? Thanks.

 

[Fabrice]

@secluff gave me lots of info a while back on this and other details.

From what I recall its the switch that regulate the vacuum to the Autolite dual vac. During warming up. the dist plate reduces the advance.

What I do not recall (and not have his notes on this comp), is where the feed came from, electric choke or... I'll try find these back for you unless someone has the answer for you before that.

As I will use an EFI, there is no need for this for me.

 

[mustangandy]

@secluff gave me lots of info a while back on this and other details.

From what I recall its the switch that regulate the vacuum to the Autolite dual vac. During warming up. the dist plate reduces the advance.

What I do not recall (and not have his notes on this comp), is where the feed came from,  electric choke or... I'll try find these back for you unless someone has the answer for you before that.

As I will use an EFI, there is no need for this for me.

Thanks Fabrice. I think my distributor is the original one. The carb is a holley though with a manual choke. Wonder how the dizzy changes the advance now? The car won't idle from cold and only does so when fully warm - wonder if that may be due to no advance reduction?

 

[Fabrice]

Thanks Fabrice. I think my distributor is the original one. The carb is a holley though with a manual choke. Wonder how the dizzy changes the advance now? The car won't idle from cold and only does so when fully warm - wonder if that may be due to no advance reduction?

If you are in original config, missing the vac activation for the dist, may very well impact your idle when cold.

For the carb, shouldn't the carb be a Rochester instead of an Holley?

Found @secluff note back..

"The Ported Vacuum Switch with the three vacuum ports (nipples) is part of the distributor dual vacuum advance system.It was designed to restrict (******) vacuum to the distributor vacuum advance until the engine warmed up and coolant temp reached operating temp.Then the switch would allow the vacuum to operate the distributor vacuum advance as normal. In this way, cold engines will warm up faster having slightly ******** timing.If the engine was to run a little hotter than normal then the system was supposed to advance the timing and increase engine speed."

He provided me picts as well, I think these will help you.







EDIT: forgot to add, that my switch is also like yours, having this connector on top. I'll be looking for the electrical connection info...

 

[7173Vert]

I have this switch in my J Code Vert. Did your car’s come with AC from the factory? I believe these specific switches may have been used on AC installed car’s, but can’t provide 100% proof at the moment. There is a special electrical connector that attaches to the top connection prong’s on this switch. It took me three year’s to find the factory installed electrical connector... Off the top of my head, It connects to an electrical connection that comes from the firewall, travels along the top of the driver side intake manifold... I will have to get into the garage to confirm... As I am in the process of moving, all my documentation is boxed up and buried somewhere...

 

[SteveO_71]

I've started to go though my 1971 429 cobra jet and haven't been able to confirm what exactly is missing from these two spade connectors. Can anyone shed some light please? Thanks.

I had a DVCV like yours on my 71 351c and didnt really find much info as to how it really worked or which cars it was on.

Below is the documentation I did find. When tracing the wires on mine, it appears that the top electrical post was connected to switched 12v which then went to the electrical choke on the carb. Dont know if thats right or wrong though.

I ended up removing it and replacing it with just the standard 3 port DVCV and connecting the 12v to the carb choke. Still have the original wiring I took off and can probably dig out, if you wanted to see what it looked like. Maybe controlled the choke based on engine temp??

 

[71fast]

I don't think I have ever seen a 71 wiring diagram with electrical devices for EGR.  On the 72 diagram I see solenoids, but no swtches except for the ambient temp switch.  Anybody have a 71 diagram that shows any EGR electrical stuff?

 

[mustangandy]

Thanks Fabrice. I think my distributor is the original one. The carb is a holley though with a manual choke. Wonder how the dizzy changes the advance now? The car won't idle from cold and only does so when fully warm - wonder if that may be due to no advance reduction?

If you are in original config, missing the vac activation for the dist, may very well impact your idle when cold.

For the carb, shouldn't the carb be a Rochester instead of an Holley?

Found @secluff note back..

"The Ported Vacuum Switch with the three vacuum ports (nipples) is part of the distributor dual vacuum advance system.It was designed to restrict (******) vacuum to the distributor vacuum advance until the engine warmed up and coolant temp reached operating temp.Then the switch would allow the vacuum to operate the distributor vacuum advance as normal. In this way, cold engines will warm up faster having slightly ******** timing.If the engine was to run a little hotter than normal then the system was supposed to advance the timing and increase engine speed."

He provided me picts as well, I think these will help you.







EDIT: forgot to add, that my switch is also like yours, having this connector on top. I'll be looking for the electrical connection info...

Thanks again Fabrice. Yes the car should have a Rochester. I do have it, needs a complete rebuild, though it is the modified 1979 version

 

[mustangandy]

I have this switch in my J Code Vert. Did your car’s come with AC from the factory? I believe these specific switches may have been used on AC installed car’s, but can’t provide 100% proof at the moment. There is a special electrical connector that attaches to the top connection prong’s on this switch. It took me three year’s to find the factory installed electrical connector... Off the top of my head, It connects to an electrical connection that comes from the firewall, travels along the top of the driver side intake manifold... I will have to get into the garage to confirm... As I am in the process of moving, all my documentation is boxed up and buried somewhere...

No my car doesn't have AC. Any other info you might be able to get would be great. Thanks

 

[mustangandy]

I've started to go though my 1971 429 cobra jet and haven't been able to confirm what exactly is missing from these two spade connectors. Can anyone shed some light please? Thanks.

I had a DVCV like yours on my 71 351c and didnt really find much info as to how it really worked or which cars it was on.

Below is the documentation I did find. When tracing the wires on mine, it appears that the top electrical post was connected to switched 12v which then went to the electrical choke on the carb. Dont know if thats right or wrong though.

I ended up removing it and replacing it with just the standard 3 port DVCV and connecting the 12v to the carb choke. Still have the original wiring I took off and can probably dig out, if you wanted to see what it looked like. Maybe controlled the choke based on engine temp??

Thanks Steve. As its now a holley on the car with a manual choke I wonder if that's why it might have been removed?

 

[SteveO_71]

I've started to go though my 1971 429 cobra jet and haven't been able to confirm what exactly is missing from these two spade connectors. Can anyone shed some light please? Thanks.

I had a DVCV like yours on my 71 351c and didnt really find much info as to how it really worked or which cars it was on.

Below is the documentation I did find. When tracing the wires on mine, it appears that the top electrical post was connected to switched 12v which then went to the electrical choke on the carb. Dont know if thats right or wrong though.

I ended up removing it and replacing it with just the standard 3 port DVCV and connecting the 12v to the carb choke. Still have the original wiring I took off and can probably dig out, if you wanted to see what it looked like. Maybe controlled the choke based on engine temp??

Thanks Steve. As its now a holley on the car with a manual choke I wonder if that's why it might have been removed?

Yes, since you have a manual choke, it sounds logical thats probably why they removed that connector. If you dont like the look of the unconnected top, you could also just put in the normal 3 port DVCV.

By the way, if anyone has a DVCV like that and needs the factory wiring, since from another post it sounds like that connector is hard to find, I still have the wiring that I can send out free of charge.

 

[7173Vert]

I had a DVCV like yours on my 71 351c and didnt really find much info as to how it really worked or which cars it was on.

Below is the documentation I did find. When tracing the wires on mine, it appears that the top electrical post was connected to switched 12v which then went to the electrical choke on the carb. Dont know if thats right or wrong though.

I ended up removing it and replacing it with just the standard 3 port DVCV and connecting the 12v to the carb choke. Still have the original wiring I took off and can probably dig out, if you wanted to see what it looked like. Maybe controlled the choke based on engine temp??

Thanks Steve. As its now a holley on the car with a manual choke I wonder if that's why it might have been removed?

Yes, since you have a manual choke, it sounds logical thats probably why they removed that connector. If you dont like the look of the unconnected top, you could also just put in the normal 3 port DVCV.

By the way, if anyone has a DVCV like that and needs the factory wiring, since from another post it sounds like that connector is hard to find, I still have the wiring that I can send out free of charge.

Steve, I could use it if it is in good shape. The one I found for my car has a cut in one of the wires near the clip and I can’t repair it... Let me know please and thanks.Ken