Engine Bay Paint

[Darren 72]

Hey,

Just looking for some info. I rebuilt my front end including al aprons and rad support. I painted it and found it to be to shiny. Sanded it lightly and am going to try to shoot with Eastwood Underhood Black acrylic lacquer paint. I've read positives and negatives to this paint. Some say its not that durable. Others say its great. I saw a car at a show done with it and it caught my eye. Looked close to factory. My question is when I shot it the first time I had to add hardener an reducer to the paint. This paint requires none of that. Not sure why. Does the hardener and reducer make the paint any more durable? If so what would happen to the paint from Eastwood if I added a hardener to it? I know nothing about paint but bought a gun and started experimenting. Ready for the next shoot and want some advice.

Thanks,

D. Rolls

 

[Qcode351mach]

Hey,

Just looking for some info. I rebuilt my front end including al aprons and rad support. I painted it and found it to be to shiny. Sanded it lightly and am going to try to shoot with Eastwood Underhood Black acrylic lacquer paint. I've read positives and negatives to this paint. Some say its not that durable. Others say its great. I saw a car at a show done with it and it caught my eye. Looked close to factory. My question is when I shot it the first time I had to add hardener an reducer to the paint. This paint requires none of that. Not sure why. Does the hardener and reducer make the paint any more durable? If so what would happen to the paint from Eastwood if I added a hardener to it? I know nothing about paint but bought a gun and started experimenting. Ready for the next shoot and want some advice.

Thanks,

D. Rolls

D,

Did you see my engine detail vid ? Eastwood extreme chassis black satin

 

[Don C]

I'm not a paint expert, but my understanding is that some paints, like urethane, require the hardener so the paint will cure (dry). The reducer acts like a thinner, reducing the paint viscosity so it can be sprayed. The Eastwood paint is probably already reduced and ready to go out of the can. I do know that some paints are incompatible and will bubble or delaminate when used on top of each other.

 

[midlife]

Surprisingly, DP90LF is the perfect shade of satin black for the engine compartment. Being an epoxy paint, it is durable and hard to scratch. Many of the top-end MCA judges use this for their engine compartment paint. The only drawback to this epoxy is that prolonged exposure to infrared light tends to create a light white oxidation. Shouldn't be a problem unless you keep the hood off for months at a time in the strong sunlight.

 

[jeff8877]

Midlife,

Are you saying that a lot of the guys looking for the satin black finish just use the DP90LF black primer and don't put a topcoat on? I am ready to paint my under body and engine compartment and had bought gray epoxy primer and was going to topcoat with Eastwood chassis black. I would much rather just have to spray once especially if the look is close to original.

Appreciate your comments before I make myself extra work.

Jeff

Surprisingly, DP90LF is the perfect shade of satin black for the engine compartment. Being an epoxy paint, it is durable and hard to scratch. Many of the top-end MCA judges use this for their engine compartment paint. The only drawback to this epoxy is that prolonged exposure to infrared light tends to create a light white oxidation. Shouldn't be a problem unless you keep the hood off for months at a time in the strong sunlight.

 

[caspianwendell]

Midlife,

Are you saying that a lot of the guys looking for the satin black finish just use the DP90LF black primer and don't put a topcoat on? I am ready to paint my under body and engine compartment and had bought gray epoxy primer and was going to topcoat with Eastwood chassis black. I would much rather just have to spray once especially if the look is close to original.

Appreciate your comments before I make myself extra work.

Jeff

Surprisingly, DP90LF is the perfect shade of satin black for the engine compartment. Being an epoxy paint, it is durable and hard to scratch. Many of the top-end MCA judges use this for their engine compartment paint. The only drawback to this epoxy is that prolonged exposure to infrared light tends to create a light white oxidation. Shouldn't be a problem unless you keep the hood off for months at a time in the strong sunlight.

I have used DP90 several times on frames, and engine bays. Since it is not in direct UV, there is not a problem with fading. I have never had any complaints on the finish or durability.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Midlife,

Are you saying that a lot of the guys looking for the satin black finish just use the DP90LF black primer and don't put a topcoat on? I am ready to paint my under body and engine compartment and had bought gray epoxy primer and was going to topcoat with Eastwood chassis black. I would much rather just have to spray once especially if the look is close to original.

Appreciate your comments before I make myself extra work.

Jeff

Surprisingly, DP90LF is the perfect shade of satin black for the engine compartment. Being an epoxy paint, it is durable and hard to scratch. Many of the top-end MCA judges use this for their engine compartment paint. The only drawback to this epoxy is that prolonged exposure to infrared light tends to create a light white oxidation. Shouldn't be a problem unless you keep the hood off for months at a time in the strong sunlight.

You can go either way..Best to do a spray out & compare pick what you like best..I will say this, My camaro I did 2 years ago with the eastwood extreme chassis black looks as good as the day it was sprayed..I drive the car alot during the summer..But the base was in good shape so it wasn't taken to bare metal..On the green 72 I'm doing now I'm spraying epoxy then the chassis black..the base was in poor condition so most was taken to bare metal..plus I'm doing some smoothing body work..personally I like the eastwwod satin,,nice finish looks very oem..holds up well..

 

[midlife]

Yes, only Epoxy Primer and no top coat is what some high-end restorers/MCA Gold Card Judges use.

 

[mustang7173]

Darren 72,

I would go with Qcode351mach recommendation.

mustang7173

 

[Darren 72]

Thanks for your comments. I will start the project soon.


Scott,

So on the Eastwood Under the Hood. Black spray wait 10 minutes and spray again? Should it only be 2 coats?

 

[Qcode351mach]

Thanks for your comments. I will start the project soon.


Scott,

So on the Eastwood Under the Hood. Black spray wait 10 minutes and spray again? Should it only be 2 coats?

Pretty much so depending on coverage see how it looks if it covers & looks good then leave it alone..If it needs more wait 10 minutes than add 1 more coat.

 

[Darren 72]

Ok...common sense approach. Thanks for the help everyone!


Q...that was a cool vid. I checked it out.

 

[HighOctane]

We use is Accu match OEM Detail Black part# RP-103. It covers very well, looks great (a mild satin finish) and it takes touch up extremely well. A restorer friend of ours turned us on to it 3 years ago and it is holding up extremely well. We drive that car a lot. I don't have experience with the other brands mentioned on here.

 

[Darren 72]

Thanks