Engine Bay paint

[Darren 72]

Hi Everyone,

I just finished the lower cowl. I put 2 coats of rust bullet on and 2 coats of black shell rust bullett. Looks pretty strong. I also used seam sealer over the first 2 coats on my seams. Learning alot.

The next thing I need to think about is a rattler engine bay paint. I will probably put 1 coat of black shell over 2 coats of the regular rust bullet on the apron panels, rad support and the upper cowl. I want to spray final coat so you can't see any brush strokes. Which brand gives you a factory look on the rad support and aprons? I see Eastwood has a semi gloss for about 12.99. Any chain stores worthy of looking for paint? If I have to pay for shipping I will but am really trying to watch my pennies. This thing is like a vacuum with the $.

I will probably use a brush on the chassis and use the blackshell. I think the rust bullett is the way to go (thanks Scott).

Thanks

D. Rolls

 

[Mister 4x4]

Honestly, I'd just scuff up the Black Shell that's already there (knocking down the brush strokes), and spray the final coat of Black Shell. It's a nice semi-gloss (OK - a little glossier than matte), and it's chemical-resistant, which means it won't give up to the normal under hood chemical spills and mishaps.

That's the plan for my engine compartment. Can't see putting some mere paint on top of the Rust Bullet that'll just need to be refinished at some point when the Rust Bullet will stand up a lot better on it's own.

My opinion though - my car is going resto-mod, not restoration.

It's going to look awesome no matter what though. Post pics!

 

[MotoArts]

I like regular ol' Krylon Satin Black.

Lots of solids (for a spray bomb), and nice OE type sheen for nice $$$.

Don't have to mail order it either.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Hi Everyone,

I just finished the lower cowl. I put 2 coats of rust bullet on and 2 coats of black shell rust bullett. Looks pretty strong. I also used seam sealer over the first 2 coats on my seams. Learning alot.

The next thing I need to think about is a rattler engine bay paint. I will probably put 1 coat of black shell over 2 coats of the regular rust bullet on the apron panels, rad support and the upper cowl. I want to spray final coat so you can't see any brush strokes. Which brand gives you a factory look on the rad support and aprons? I see Eastwood has a semi gloss for about 12.99. Any chain stores worthy of looking for paint? If I have to pay for shipping I will but am really trying to watch my pennies. This thing is like a vacuum with the $.

I will probably use a brush on the chassis and use the blackshell. I think the rust bullett is the way to go (thanks Scott).

Thanks

D. Rolls

Your welcome D ! You could go with the blackshell sprayed for your last coat like 4x4 is doing or if that finish is a bit too glossy for you ..I use the krylon satin black like moto said It works really well & matches o.e. pretty good..I'm getting ready to do the cowl & forward dash on the 71 Camaro & thats what I'm using on it.. (walmart) either way as long as you use the rust bullet as your base your good

 

[Darren 72]

Hi Everyone,

I just finished the lower cowl. I put 2 coats of rust bullet on and 2 coats of black shell rust bullett. Looks pretty strong. I also used seam sealer over the first 2 coats on my seams. Learning alot.

The next thing I need to think about is a rattler engine bay paint. I will probably put 1 coat of black shell over 2 coats of the regular rust bullet on the apron panels, rad support and the upper cowl. I want to spray final coat so you can't see any brush strokes. Which brand gives you a factory look on the rad support and aprons? I see Eastwood has a semi gloss for about 12.99. Any chain stores worthy of looking for paint? If I have to pay for shipping I will but am really trying to watch my pennies. This thing is like a vacuum with the $.

I will probably use a brush on the chassis and use the blackshell. I think the rust bullett is the way to go (thanks Scott).

Thanks

D. Rolls

Your welcome D ! You could go with the blackshell sprayed for your last coat like 4x4 is doing or if that finish is a bit too glossy for you ..I use the krylon satin black like moto said It works really well & matches o.e. pretty good..I'm getting ready to do the cowl & forward dash on the 71 Camaro & thats what I'm using on it.. (walmart) either way as long as you use the rust bullet as your base your good

I've never sprayed using a gun. Is it as easy as loading the blackshell in the canister and spray? I can get a spray gun at a reasonable price. I do have a compressor so is it easy? I was leaning towards a rattler for convenience but the rust bullett blackshell would probably be a tougher finish.

Scott I am planning on scuffing up new aprons on the front and back sides and putting the 2 coats of silver and two coats of blackshell on including rad support. Is this overkill?

Thanks

D. Rolls

Honestly, I'd just scuff up the Black Shell that's already there (knocking down the brush strokes), and spray the final coat of Black Shell. It's a nice semi-gloss (OK - a little glossier than matte), and it's chemical-resistant, which means it won't give up to the normal under hood chemical spills and mishaps.

That's the plan for my engine compartment. Can't see putting some mere paint on top of the Rust Bullet that'll just need to be refinished at some point when the Rust Bullet will stand up a lot better on it's own.

My opinion though - my car is going resto-mod, not restoration.

It's going to look awesome no matter what though. Post pics!

Same here. I am just trying to make it look good and most importantly having fun with it..sometimes..lol. Mine is definitely not going to be a factory restoration. I'm not that good.

I like regular ol' Krylon Satin Black.

Lots of solids (for a spray bomb), and nice OE type sheen for nice $$$.

Don't have to mail order it either.

Thanks

 

[Qcode351mach]

I've never sprayed using a gun. Is it as easy as loading the blackshell in the canister and spray? I can get a spray gun at a reasonable price. I do have a compressor so is it easy? I was leaning towards a rattler for convenience but the rust bullett blackshell would probably be a tougher finish.

Scott I am planning on scuffing up new aprons on the front and back sides and putting the 2 coats of silver and two coats of blackshell on including rad support. Is this overkill?

D..you could do the 2 coats of reg (silver) rust bullet then use the krylon satin spray bombs..it will be perfect..no need for the blackshell if you never sprayed with a gun before.

 

[Darren 72]

I've never sprayed using a gun. Is it as easy as loading the blackshell in the canister and spray? I can get a spray gun at a reasonable price. I do have a compressor so is it easy? I was leaning towards a rattler for convenience but the rust bullett blackshell would probably be a tougher finish.

Scott I am planning on scuffing up new aprons on the front and back sides and putting the 2 coats of silver and two coats of blackshell on including rad support. Is this overkill?

D..you could do the 2 coats of reg (silver) rust bullet then use the krylon satin spray bombs..it will be perfect..no need for the blackshell if you never sprayed with a gun before.

Thanks Scott

 

[MotoArts]

Again in my opinion...

Overkill is the key word here.

Ask yourself what the intended use of the car will be.

If you're not using it through the northeastern winter, simply degrease the intended area to be painted, scuff the nicely adhered stock paint to give it "tooth", seal the seams, a coat of good primer on any bare metal spots (acid etch works great, available in spray cans too), shoot the Krylon or equivalent and call it done.

The detail job will outlast your ownership, especially if it's a weekend cruiser that lives indoors.

 

[mach71351c]

I've never sprayed using a gun. Is it as easy as loading the blackshell in the canister and spray? I can get a spray gun at a reasonable price. I do have a compressor so is it easy? I was leaning towards a rattler for convenience but the rust bullett blackshell would probably be a tougher finish.

Scott I am planning on scuffing up new aprons on the front and back sides and putting the 2 coats of silver and two coats of blackshell on including rad support. Is this overkill?

D..you could do the 2 coats of reg (silver) rust bullet then use the krylon satin spray bombs..it will be perfect..no need for the blackshell if you never sprayed with a gun before.

Dto

 

[Qcode351mach]

Again in my opinion...

Overkill is the key word here.

Ask yourself what the intended use of the car will be.

If you're not using it through the northeastern winter, simply degrease the intended area to be painted, scuff the nicely adhered stock paint to give it "tooth", seal the seams, a coat of good primer on any bare metal spots (acid etch works great, available in spray cans too), shoot the Krylon or equivalent and call it done.

The detail job will outlast your ownership, especially if it's a weekend cruiser that lives indoors.

Moto..he has no "stock paint" He did a major reconstruction..your procedure would work fine for a refresh of a compartment in good overall cond..& I'm going to disagree with you on the "acid etch primers" They suck !! They provide no corrosion protection what so ever ! They do have their place though in a production type shop doing new car work when you replace a fender hood etc & just want to shoot over the factory e-coat.

 

[Darren 72]

Again in my opinion...

Overkill is the key word here.

Ask yourself what the intended use of the car will be.

If you're not using it through the northeastern winter, simply degrease the intended area to be painted, scuff the nicely adhered stock paint to give it "tooth", seal the seams, a coat of good primer on any bare metal spots (acid etch works great, available in spray cans too), shoot the Krylon or equivalent and call it done.

The detail job will outlast your ownership, especially if it's a weekend cruiser that lives indoors.

Moto..he has no "stock paint" He did a major reconstruction..your procedure would work fine for a refresh of a compartment in good overall cond..& I'm going to disagree with you on the "acid etch primers" They suck !! They provide no corrosion protection what so ever ! They do have their place though in a production type shop doing new car work when you replace a fender hood etc & just want to shoot over the factory e-coat.

Hey Scott...Just interested in a question about spraying the engine bay. Is it a difficult process vs a rattler? The rattler sounds easier but what steps would need to be done to spray blackshell. I think I'm leaning towards spraying the rattler over 2 coats of silver bullett but I'm always eager to learn something new.

Thanks

D. Rolls

 

[Qcode351mach]

Again in my opinion...

Overkill is the key word here.

Ask yourself what the intended use of the car will be.

If you're not using it through the northeastern winter, simply degrease the intended area to be painted, scuff the nicely adhered stock paint to give it "tooth", seal the seams, a coat of good primer on any bare metal spots (acid etch works great, available in spray cans too), shoot the Krylon or equivalent and call it done.

The detail job will outlast your ownership, especially if it's a weekend cruiser that lives indoors.

Moto..he has no "stock paint" He did a major reconstruction..your procedure would work fine for a refresh of a compartment in good overall cond..& I'm going to disagree with you on the "acid etch primers" They suck !! They provide no corrosion protection what so ever ! They do have their place though in a production type shop doing new car work when you replace a fender hood etc & just want to shoot over the factory e-coat.

Hey Scott...Just interested in a question about spraying the engine bay. Is it a difficult process vs a rattler? The rattler sounds easier but what steps would need to be done to spray blackshell. I think I'm leaning towards spraying the rattler over 2 coats of silver bullett but I'm always eager to learn something new.

Thanks

D. Rolls

D..I could write quite a few books on the answer to your question best bet is to watch some of the videos on you tube then you decide..here's a good one to start

 

[Darren 72]

Again in my opinion...

Overkill is the key word here.

Ask yourself what the intended use of the car will be.

If you're not using it through the northeastern winter, simply degrease the intended area to be painted, scuff the nicely adhered stock paint to give it "tooth", seal the seams, a coat of good primer on any bare metal spots (acid etch works great, available in spray cans too), shoot the Krylon or equivalent and call it done.

The detail job will outlast your ownership, especially if it's a weekend cruiser that lives indoors.

Moto..he has no "stock paint" He did a major reconstruction..your procedure would work fine for a refresh of a compartment in good overall cond..& I'm going to disagree with you on the "acid etch primers" They suck !! They provide no corrosion protection what so ever ! They do have their place though in a production type shop doing new car work when you replace a fender hood etc & just want to shoot over the factory e-coat.

Scott,

I need some help. I bought some Krylon Satin Black. I sprayed a little on the under section of the upper cowl to see what it looks like. I was reading Rust Bullett's instructions.

Is it OK to spray right on the Rust Bullett without a primer? It says if you wait after 48 hrs you may have to use a sandable primer. Also I think I put a little too much with the brush on the top of the cowl. I assume I can sand the Bullett (silver)? I would like to get the upper top smooth since you will be able to see it. Wet sanding? Grit? The underneath section of the upper cowl doesn't matter since it will be never seen. Any advice on approaching this.

Tomorrow afternoon will be 48 hrs so If I don't have to use primer it will moves things along faster. I have 0 experience with this product.

Thanks Scott

D. Rolls

 

[Qcode351mach]

Scott,

I need some help. I bought some Krylon Satin Black. I sprayed a little on the under section of the upper cowl to see what it looks like. I was reading Rust Bullett's instructions.

Is it OK to spray right on the Rust Bullett without a primer? It says if you wait after 48 hrs you may have to use a sandable primer. Also I think I put a little too much with the brush on the top of the cowl. I assume I can sand the Bullett (silver)? I would like to get the upper top smooth since you will be able to see it. Wet sanding? Grit? The underneath section of the upper cowl doesn't matter since it will be never seen. Any advice on approaching this.

Tomorrow afternoon will be 48 hrs so If I don't have to use primer it will moves things along faster. I have 0 experience with this product.

Thanks Scott

D. Rolls

D..you dont' need primer if it's within the 48 hours..after 48 hours just use a grey scuff pad to "scratch the r/b" I would wipe down the surface with a wax & grease remover & let sit at least 1 hour before paint. as far as runs you can sand them them out with some 220 dry on a block to start "knock it down" & then 320 dry.. then 400..just be careful not to "cut through" the r/b down to bare metal.. Post up some pics for us D !!!:worthlesswithoutpics:

 

[Darren 72]

Scott,

I need some help. I bought some Krylon Satin Black. I sprayed a little on the under section of the upper cowl to see what it looks like. I was reading Rust Bullett's instructions.

Is it OK to spray right on the Rust Bullett without a primer? It says if you wait after 48 hrs you may have to use a sandable primer. Also I think I put a little too much with the brush on the top of the cowl. I assume I can sand the Bullett (silver)? I would like to get the upper top smooth since you will be able to see it. Wet sanding? Grit? The underneath section of the upper cowl doesn't matter since it will be never seen. Any advice on approaching this.

Tomorrow afternoon will be 48 hrs so If I don't have to use primer it will moves things along faster. I have 0 experience with this product.

Thanks Scott

D. Rolls

D..you dont' need primer if it's within the 48 hours..after 48 hours just use a grey scuff pad to "scratch the r/b" I would wipe down the surface with a wax & grease remover & let sit at least 1 hour before paint. as far as runs you can sand them them out with some 220 dry on a block to start "knock it down" & then 320 dry.. then 400..just be careful not to "cut through" the r/b down to bare metal.. Post up some pics for us D !!!:worthlesswithoutpics:

Here are a few pics as requested. My buddy thought he was doing the right thing and ground down all the areas where the spot welds were under the windshield area on the cowl. I couldn't find them and had to cut the cowl off. The windshield will hide the seam.

I'm not happy with the brush strokes on the cowl. Not sure if I will take the thing down again or live with it. It was my own fault. I put it on a little too thick. I should of started with the cowl supports instead of the cowl. Live and learn. I've never done anything like this so I'm learning by mistakes sometimes. I don't think this thing will leak though. Pretty thick. Two coats on the lower with RB silver and two coats of blackshell. Any thoughts let me know.

Go Bruins!!!!

Thanks,

D. Rolls

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

Hey darren!! I was just reading your thread here and if i understand it correctly, first you brush rustbullet in all the engine bay and now you are planning to paint on top of that??

Isnt the brushed rustbullet result on a non smooth surface??

Well... I never paint on non smooth surfaces... Brushing products can be done only in never ever visible surfaces such as floors under the carpet for example...

Maybe here from my cel i can apreciate everything but for me in Uruguay that rustbullet Or magic can products dont exist, the only way to go is to treat the engine bay with the same products and quality you use on the exterior paint... I mean epoxy primer on the bare metal, bondo if it is needed, then a good 2k primer and then the best mate Or semigloss coat you can get...

Usually a good poliurethane coat is chemical resistent and you can actually get the same "Glass surface" smoothness

You can eat on my enginebay and it wasnt expensive 200 bucks on products in any uruguayan good paint store...

I did everything on PPG deltron line

 

[Darren 72]

Hey darren!! I was just reading your thread here and if i understand it correctly, first you brush rustbullet in all the engine bay and now you are planning to paint on top of that??

Isnt the brushed rustbullet result on a non smooth surface??

Well... I never paint on non smooth surfaces... Brushing products can be done only in never ever visible surfaces such as floors under the carpet for example...

Maybe here from my cel i can apreciate everything but for me in Uruguay that rustbullet Or magic can products dont exist, the only way to go is to treat the engine bay with the same products and quality you use on the exterior paint... I mean epoxy primer on the bare metal, bondo if it is needed, then a good 2k primer and then the best mate Or semigloss coat you can get...

Usually a good poliurethane coat is chemical resistent and you can actually get the same "Glass surface" smoothness

You can eat on my enginebay and it wasnt expensive 200 bucks on products in any uruguayan good paint store...

I did everything on PPG deltron line

I read somewhere that the brush strokes didn't show up. I think I put too much on. I sanded lightly but the stuff is too thick. I should have tested it first. I don't think I can live with this. You can spray it but I'm not a body guy and really don't want to get involved in that. I'm not set-up to paint in my garage. Thanks for the response!

D. Rolls

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

But maybe you can do something in between to make that brushes less visible and the final surface mire smooth... That will help to keep the engine bay clean...

As i said, i work totally different because i'm in a difierent place... I'm not a professional either...

I was just trying to say maybe there's something you can do to get the Job better finished

 

[Qcode351mach]

D..the mistake you made is you used a brush...all my rust bullet has been applied using a tight mini foam roller (home depot lowes) & foam disposable brushes..I haven't sprayed any of r/b & you can't tell it wasn't sprayed. Here's the plan..Weld on the top cowl...then sand down smooth or to bare metal with 100-120 on the d/a Then reapply the r/b with the foam roller & foam brush..then top coat with the krylon.