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D..the mistake you made is you used a brush...all my rust bullet has been applied using a tight mini foam roller (home depot lowes) & foam disposable brushes..I haven't sprayed any of r/b & you can't tell it wasn't sprayed. Here's the plan..Weld on the top cowl...then sand down smooth or to bare metal with 100-120 on the d/a Then reapply the r/b with the foam roller & foam brush..then top coat with the krylon.
Sounds like a plan..Thanks. I will keep you posted



But maybe you can do something in between to make that brushes less visible and the final surface mire smooth... That will help to keep the engine bay clean...

As i said, i work totally different because i'm in a difierent place... I'm not a professional either...

I was just trying to say maybe there's something you can do to get the Job better finished
No worries...I appreciate the feedback! That's whats going to get me through this. That one was a mistake that's fixable which is a good thing. I'm sure there's a few other mistakes waiting to happen. I just have to keep pushing forward towards my goal and try not to get too frustrated.

 
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D..the mistake you made is you used a brush...all my rust bullet has been applied using a tight mini foam roller (home depot lowes) & foam disposable brushes..I haven't sprayed any of r/b & you can't tell it wasn't sprayed. Here's the plan..Weld on the top cowl...then sand down smooth or to bare metal with 100-120 on the d/a Then reapply the r/b with the foam roller & foam brush..then top coat with the krylon.
Mini roller worked great. Big difference. Once the blackshell went on with roller it looked so much better. Good tip.

Thanks,

D. Rolls

 
D..the mistake you made is you used a brush...all my rust bullet has been applied using a tight mini foam roller (home depot lowes) & foam disposable brushes..I haven't sprayed any of r/b & you can't tell it wasn't sprayed. Here's the plan..Weld on the top cowl...then sand down smooth or to bare metal with 100-120 on the d/a Then reapply the r/b with the foam roller & foam brush..then top coat with the krylon.
Mini roller worked great. Big difference. Once the blackshell went on with roller it looked so much better. Good tip.

Thanks,

D. Rolls
Cool !! You got it D....Pick up some foam brushes too they work great to get the corners etc. :cool:

 
Just a thought. Take a look at this picture. This POR-15 finish put on with a bristle brush. As it dries it spreads and fills in nicely. I know it's a little pricey, but after I remove all the rust I use OSPHO to neutralize any porouse rust that sandblasting may miss. Then I put on 2 coats of POR-15. It has the same brush strokes you show when you put it on but fills as it cures. Lastly, I used 500 deg Dupli-Color engine paint for the color. This radiator support is from 1973.

DSCN0571.JPG

 
Just a thought. Take a look at this picture. This POR-15 finish put on with a bristle brush. As it dries it spreads and fills in nicely. I know it's a little pricey, but after I remove all the rust I use OSPHO to neutralize any porouse rust that sandblasting may miss. Then I put on 2 coats of POR-15. It has the same brush strokes you show when you put it on but fills as it cures. Lastly, I used 500 deg Dupli-Color engine paint for the color. This radiator support is from 1973.
Ya know some guys swear by por 15..In over 25 years of doing restorations I've seen nothing better than rust bullet...I've used por 15 & it requires alot of prep & isn't to forgiving..The results were good but not out of this world..For my money & time I'll stick with rust bullet..The proof is in the pudding & if you see all the independent testing done ,on the rust bullet site, against por15, rust bullet beat it in every test..plus I don't see a patent on por 15 Nor do i see any of the top builders using por 15 why is that ?(por15 is old outdated technology) JMO...

 
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Just a thought. Take a look at this picture. This POR-15 finish put on with a bristle brush. As it dries it spreads and fills in nicely. I know it's a little pricey, but after I remove all the rust I use OSPHO to neutralize any porouse rust that sandblasting may miss. Then I put on 2 coats of POR-15. It has the same brush strokes you show when you put it on but fills as it cures. Lastly, I used 500 deg Dupli-Color engine paint for the color. This radiator support is from 1973.
Ya know some guys swear by por 15..In over 25 years of doing restorations I've seen nothing better than rust bullet...I've used por 15 & it requires alot of prep & isn't to forgiving..The results were good but not out of this world..For my money & time I'll stick with rust bullet..The proof is in the pudding & if you see all the independent testing done ,on the rust bullet site, against por15, rust bullet beat it in every test..plus I don't see a patent on por 15 Nor do i see any of the top builders using por 15 why is that ?(por15 is old outdated technology) JMO...
Qcode351mach,
As it shows, I'm a mechanic and not a body man. When I started the chevelle project 3 years ago I decided it was time to learn and do as much as I could on my own. So I poled the locals and POR was recommended.

After going to the rust bullet sight I can see what you mean. I'd never heard of the stuff. When I finish off the gallon I have, I'll give it a try. Thanks

 
Scott got me using the stuff and I must say it appears to be a very durable sealant w/o all the drawbacks of the POR. I think the reason POR-15 is so popular is that you can buy it at any local body store. My local body store never heard of RB. Convenience and familiarity is why POR sells so well I would believe (just a guess).

Why they don't market it better is a mystery to me. I wish I could buy it locally but as far as I know it's only sold on line. Its a little more expensive due to shipping. I should send an e-mail to them about why it can't be purchased anywhere besides on line. If they want to get the word out and compete with POR, you would think they would get it on local shelves. Every time I pick up a car mag POR has an ad in it.

I actually bought a six pack of it recently. I noticed after opening and closing the quart container after a few projects, it started to gel up. The six pack has I think 4 oz cans which will finish a few more sections of the car. A little pricey but it may give me a smoother finish.

As Scott mentioned the mini roller puts a nice finish on it. I am using 2 coats Rust Bullet Black Shell over the 2 coats of grey / silver Automotive Rust Bullet. I am planning on doing all my new aprons and rad supports, firewall and all the undercarriage of the front end since I have the engine out with the RB Black Shell along with the Automotive RB.

I figure if it's too shiny I can spray over with a rattler Krylon Black Satin. The beauty of it is if I scratch the paint doing maint. or whatever, the RB Black Shell will be underneath. Hopefully I will be satisfied with the Black Shell. It may be a little too glossy but we'll see. That's my two cents

 
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