ENGINE TROUBLE

[wwhite72]

Hesitates a split second before shooting forward...is that because the transmission is down shifting?

 

[JREID2]

put some of your good advice to use today. Of Course I have not checked all items yet....So I pulled the vac line off the back of the manifold. (is stalls out when I did this). I hooked a vac guage up here, set the two carb mixture screws in until they bottom out. I started the car put it in drive and adjusted the mixture screws a turn and half out. Vac reached 10.... When I back them out another 1/2 turn I dropped just below 10, so I left them at a turn and 1/2 out. Is this normal vac? I then set the idle screw while still in drive which made a huge difference in the way the car runs. Iy shows no signs of stalling out. However, when i put in park it idles at a high rpm... not sure how high as my tac does not work. Can this hurt anything?

I still have a slight hesitation when I stomp on the gas, so I will try adjuting the timing. I will tell you, that the car will lay them doewn in 1st and 2nd when shifting through th automatic trans. Not sure if this means a whole lot, but trying to give you an idea off how it drives.

Last thing for today...Everytime I go to start the car whether a cold start or hot start I have to pump the gas 3-4 times ad crank it 3-4 times before she fires up. Is there somthing I can adjust?? I have a new starter, ignition box, solenoid, coil, dist. cap, battery.

one last, last thing... what are points? Help me identify

compression test done 10 months ago..

1=125

2=127

3=125

4=130

5=131

6=128

7=122

8=125

 

[Widowmaker00]

Points are in the distributor. It is pretty normal to have to pump the gas before you start it. When you put it in park there is no load on the engine, so it will idle a little higher.

 

[Kit Sullivan]

OK, You stated you turned both idle-adjustment screws fully in until they were fully seated, then you started the engine and adjusted the screws? Your engine should never have started with both screws turned all the way in, for there should have been no fuel being supplied to either side of the idle circuit. If the car started with both idle screws turned in fully, then it further verifies what I suspected a couple posts back: You have an internal fuel bowl leak and the car is idling on the cruise circuit, not the idle circuit. That is also why you have an abnormally high rpm at "idle"...it requires a higher rpm before the cruise circuit will provide enough fuel to run. I suspect that if you adjust the idle down to about 800 rpm (normal rpm idle for this engine stock) it will probably run rough and then die.

Check the fuel bowl screws, and just snug them up a bit as I suggested earlier. I think it may solve at least one of your challenges here.


Note: Some rarer models of Holley carbs have idle adjustment screws that lean-out (decrease) the fuel mixture as the screws are turned OUTWARD (COUNTER-CLOCKWISE). These carbs typically have an easily-seen yellow ring around the idle adjustment screws stating this. make sure your is not this type of carb.

 

[JREID2]

Kit- there are 8 of these fuel bowl screws correct? I snugged up all 8 ( they were all a tad loose). I did this before adjusting anything on the carb. Do I need new fuel bowl bolts and gaskets? I see discoloration by the corner screws indicating some leakage??

 

[Kit Sullivan]

Kit- there are 8 of these fuel bowl screws correct? I snugged up all 8 ( they were all a tad loose). I did this before adjusting anything on the carb. Do I need new fuel bowl bolts and gaskets? I see discoloration by the corner screws indicating some leakage??

If you see signs of obvious leakage, then you are NEVER going to get a decent idle until you correct that situation first.

From the factory, Holley installs cork gaskets on these fuel bowl/ metering blocks. They swell/ shrink/ crack and don't take kindly to being taken on and off when making adjustments.

Holley sells aftermarket gaskets for these that are neoprene fuel-resistant rubber. They don't shrink or swell, and you can remove and replace the fuel bowl/metering blocks numerous times without degrading the gaskets.

They are relatively inexpensive. I suggest getting some on-line or at your local speed-shop and installing them.

You should not have to replace the screws unlessthe heads or threads are stripped out.

If you just make sure they are all snugged up nicely as it is now, cork gaskets and all,I am confident you will see a marked improvement in your idle quality.

 

[JREID2]

when I googled fuel bowl bolts, they show them with a fuel bowl gasket. I shouldn't need to replace these correct? I aslo added a pic showing the discoloration i was talking about. sorry, pic is sideways...


pic of fuel bowl screws discoloration

 

[Kit Sullivan]

Yep, that sucker has a weepage/laeking problem. I am interested to see how you do after you get that problem corrected.

 

[72HCODE]

basically grab a holley rebuild kit it comes with the new blue rubber gaskets to replace the cork, also it will come with the new Ethanol safe red accelerator pump valve and green accelerator pump replacement. it should also come with teflon plastic white fuel bowl seals for the 4 bolts for each fuel bowl front and rear (8), new power valve.the idle air screws still use a cork gasket. there will be a new set of intake manifold seal cardboard gaskets as well.

 

[michaelrcuringa]

try taking cab cleaner and spray on vacuem hoses .you may have a bad hose .it will suck it in and stall the car this will let you know if you have a vacuem leak. Old school way but still works.

 

[Kit Sullivan]

Actually it won't stall the engine, it will smooth out the idle for a secondor two.