Exhaust bolt help needed, please!

[Fordboy71]

Hi everyone. Merry Christmas! I’m back in the U.S. and getting back to work on the ‘71. I am replacing the trans and need to remove the exhaust pipes From the manifolds. I soaked the bolts in PB Blast but I still feel like they’re going to snap off if I put more pressure on them. I tried a little heat but that didn’t help.
Anyone found any cool tricks for this Problem? If they do end up snapping off, what is the best way to extract them out of the exhaust manifolds?
Thanks.

 

[MikeGriese]

Heat, penetrating oil and patience.

 

[Steve McMahan]

When I removed mine, I did the soak, heat, wait, soak, heat wait process. My dad told me years ago to try and tighten the bolt first before loosing. Work for me, no broken bolts. Hope you get it off without more work added .

 

[Kilgon]

I learned from an old timer that if you can keep some torque on the bolt while leaving it soaking and heating it that it will help it to break free. Just need to apply some torque and then wedge the wrench or ratchet handle if possible.

 

[Hemikiller]

You need heat. Real heat, not propane torch heat, but Oxy/Acetylene heat. Might be a good opportunity to pick up a torch kit. I have one that was a friend's father's and couldn't live without it.

 

[tony-muscle]

Some times an impact wrench works well. However, don't keep your finger on the trigger for too long. In lieu of an impact wrench, hit the wrench with a hammer. Do this as part of the process of penetrating oil, heat, torque.

 

[clevelandcoupe]

I agree with Hemi Killer that the Oxy/Acetylene torch is the way to go. I would suggest using a small welding tip in lieu of a much larger typical cutting torch. The welding tip has a much smaller flame that is more manageable in an under car application. Please don't forget to have a fire extinguisher close by, just in case....
Thanks, Jay

 

[351c1971]

I also agree. The oxy-acetyline torch is the way to go. Heat it to bright red then be sure to turn the torch off before spraying WD40. Works every time for me.

 

[351c1971]

I also agree about using the small welding tip.

 

[Fordboy71]

Ok! I actually used everyones tips. Torch…tighten first..knock the rust off with the impact wrench then tighten-loosen until they all came off. Thanks.

 

[Stevieray]

Patience is the key. I like to start with Kroil and in worst case will go with mouse oil. You have to be careful when you use heat that you don’t over do it. I managed to remove all of the B1 and recently the B2 bolts with out any breakage. But both engines were on the stand and I could rotate the engine in the best position as to allow the items to have the best chance for the penetrant to do its job. I also use never seize during the rebuild.