First Start Attempt

[will e]

I am hopeful but weary. 'Starting fluid doesn't help'. Even with a junked up carb the engine should have run for a moment or two with starting fluid.

 

[Sheriff41]

I agree with @Stanglover , though with less emotion , that constant tension clamps are the way to go. Your fuel injection clamps fit the bill.

 

[Mark Jones]

I am hopeful but weary. 'Starting fluid doesn't help'. Even with a junked up carb the engine should have run for a moment or two with starting fluid.

Well, we will know by tonight. The carb has been rebuilt and is ready to install. After work I will be making another try. Fingers crossed.

 

[tony-muscle]

And PLEASE, NO gear clamps on rubber fuel lines. That's ok for a temporary fix or to get things working, but after that, use proper fuel line clamps.
Sorry, but this is something that makes my blood boil when I see gear clamps on fuel lines. Not only are they potentially dangerous, but they look cheap and UGLY!!!

I found this just for you Geoff.....

 

[Stanglover]

I found this just for you Geoff.....
View attachment 85594

Thanks Tony!!

 

[Cleveland Crush]

OK, Tony started this....I feel this would be a much appreciated gift for Stanglover to utilize on his nice Mustang

 

[Stanglover]

OK, Tony started this....I feel this would be a much appreciated gift for Stanglover to utilize on his nice Mustang

Yeah, thanks again............. You won't find one of those anywhere on MY car!! (But I do have a box full of them)

 

[rio1856]

Mark Jones don't forget to take a quick vid with your phone of it starting. We like vids and pics

 

[Mark Jones]

Well, the engine has started. After installing the rebuilt carb, she fired right up after 30 seconds of cranking. Idle was nice and throttle response was fine. It was later at night so I didn't want to do a higher rpm runnup in consideration of my neighbors. The next day I connected all the stock gauges and fired the motor. I was a little harder to start than the night before but it did fire and after a short idle time, I ran it up to 2000 rpm and kept it there for 10 minutes. Oil pressure was on "H" and the temp stayed right in the middle of the gauge (factory 3 gauge cluster). The only odd thing was the drivers side exhaust was blowing some white smoke vapor. I put my hand over the pipe and the exhaust was moist and smelled like steam. After some time, the white smoke went away but then came back again. After about 5 minutes running, the rpm increased to 2200.
All through the runup, the temp stayed the same and the oil pressure stayed the same.
After 10 minutes I idled the engine down and shut it off.
Since the runup, I havent been able to get the engine started again. It seems to be back to where it started when the carb was gummed up.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Well, the engine has started. After installing the rebuilt carb, she fired right up after 30 seconds of cranking. Idle was nice and throttle response was fine. It was later at night so I didn't want to do a higher rpm runnup in consideration of my neighbors. The next day I connected all the stock gauges and fired the motor. I was a little harder to start than the night before but it did fire and after a short idle time, I ran it up to 2000 rpm and kept it there for 10 minutes. Oil pressure was on "H" and the temp stayed right in the middle of the gauge (factory 3 gauge cluster). The only odd thing was the drivers side exhaust was blowing some white smoke vapor. I put my hand over the pipe and the exhaust was moist and smelled like steam. After some time, the white smoke went away but then came back again. After about 5 minutes running, the rpm increased to 2200.
All through the runup, the temp stayed the same and the oil pressure stayed the same.
After 10 minutes I idled the engine down and shut it off.
Since the runup, I havent been able to get the engine started again. It seems to be back to where it started when the carb was gummed up.

Mark, it would be most helpful to post a short video (with sound) of your car trying to start. Don't worry, we'll help you getting it going!

 

[Mark Jones]

I will try to make the video. I dont get home from work until 6pm and it is still kinda dark.
Tonight, I plan to re-ground the engine block to the point where the battery is grounded. Seems I am getting a hard cranking condition. When I crank the engine for more than 1 minute, the terminals on the starter relay get very hot and sometimes have a little smoke.

 

[Sheriff41]

How long did you run the engine at idle after the initial startup that evening?

 

[giantpune]

Since the runup, I havent been able to get the engine started again. It seems to be back to where it started when the carb was gummed up.

I have had similar issues with a bad distributor and with the intake bolts loosening up after some heat cycles and allowing a vacuum leak.

Could also be fuel delivery related. Like trash in the lines or blocking the carb.

 

[basstrix]

What was your process for filling up the cooling system? A lot of folks don't know how to properly burp the cooling system and end up underfilling it. Not saying you did that, but hate to see you underfill your system and overheat it.

I highly recommend this funnel. I don't know when they came out with these, but I sure could have used one when I turned wrenches for a living. It's called a no-spill funnel. This thing has adapters so that it plugs into the neck of radiator and you fill up until the funnel has a couple inches of coolant in it....then you warm up the engine and as the coolant rises and falls from the thermostat cycling, this will catch it and then allow you to top it off while coolant circulates. This ensures no air pockets. Then, it's got a plug you can use to remove the funnel and put the unused coolant back into a jug or whatever.

 

[Mark Jones]

Well, after messing around and spending more money replacing parts, I finally found the culprit. It was the 50 year old ignition switch.
I just could not understand why I was reading 7 volts at the ballast resistor (ignition wire side) when the Mallory unilite device was plugged in. I said to myself, hey, it's a 12 volt system, I will power it directly from the battery. I made a jumper from the (+) post of the battery to the ignition key side of the ballast resistor. It cranked for 2 seconds then started right up. I knew something was up when it wouldnt fire using starter fluid. A new ignition switch is on order and should be here this week. I went ahead and finished up the engine compartment. Shock tower braces, vacuum canister, tank vent canister, hinges, air cleaner etc.
Next step is to install the front end. Lights, grill, valance. I am getting close to getting her on the street. Very excited

 

[basstrix]

Are you using the factory lead that goes to the coil positive to power your ballast resistor? Just asking because the OEM circuit uses resistor wire to power the coil and will have a reduced voltage with the key in the Run position. It should get the full battery voltage when in the start/cranking position. Essentially, the resistor wire replaces a ballast resistor in the OEM ignition.

 

[Mark Jones]

The new ignition switch did the trick. The engine fires right up using the stock ignition wiring (I love the sound of a cammed motor). While I was there, I installed a new ignition key cylinder with matching door locks. Now I have one key for the doors and ignition and one key for the trunk.
This weekend I re-aligned the passenger door, installed the front fenders, installed all the front bracketing, valance and bumper. I just have to install all the lights and grill then move on to the interior. Wifey duties this weekend prevent me from possibly driving the beast for the first time but there is always the weekend after next for some test runs.