@1973grandeklar, I have detailed above the neutral safety/switch.
The thing is, the travel distance of the lever on the trans is shorter on most AOD's, so you can do as I did, move the pivot point higher on the shifter arm. There is then match on the dial inside, and no need to modify anything on the harness.
Or if you want, you can use the all in one safety switch/reverse plug on the trans and hook it to your harness.
Another option, is to modify the transmission lever so it has the exact same length as the previously installed trans and shifter/electrics will work as well. But as I've found out, the levers are extremely hard. They have a heat treatment that makes basic modification really tough. I have spend hours modifying the TV lever just to have it aligned to the cable to not get any chances of cable wear and oh boy did that thing fought hard!! The shifter arm isn't hardened, so it was easy pizy.
Yes, the FMX is the grand mother of the AOD. They indeed share the same Ravignaux planetary.
The AOD can take punishment for sure but has 2 flaws in its design ( that can be easily fixed ).
- The first is the snap ring used on the first clutch after the pump, its the reverse on top of my head, but it turns depending on gears you're in, and centrifugal forces can force that ring to open and it then release the "sandwich" of that clutch.
I've used a Sonnax incapsulated snap ring (2 pieces vs one) replacement for that. I have somewhere the ref number if you need it.
(top left on pict).
- the inner shaft, is thin, and on "hard" downshift it moves back and forth and can on pre 89 AOD's with cast drums (90-93 have light weight iron drums), slam the shaft into the clutch splines. At some point if it comes a bit too deep, it will close an oil passage.
So here you have 2 options. You can fix as I did, let machined a small groove, add a ring that prevents the play, and additionally create extra oil passages on the drum (top right on pict).
Or like some do, replace the shaft by a stronger one, which in my opinion is BS as this doesn't address the faulty design and would also mean change the drum too.
That is in case of a lock converter. If you plan non lock, then if your converter has high stall, then yes, you need a stronger shaft as de converter multiplication applies loads of torque on that thin shaft, You'd still should had that ring to the new shaft. On non lock cases, always add a trans cooler no matter what.
View attachment 59609
The flex plate can be reused only if 28oz.
All the mods above are all present in all the AOD's you'll find in speed shops. TCI Streetfighters, monster trans etc..
But if you plan a non lock converter and the trans is in its juice. If your right foot is heavy, you may have problems at some point...
