From bad news come good news

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Be sure you take lots of pictures before you take anything apart it looked like it had not been changed much from original.

I believe that when You got a Mach 1 in 73 you got the hood as part of the package and it also included hood locks. The hood might have been changed over the years. I looked at my window sticker and it does not list the hood or locks just the Tutone Hood Paint that cost $18.00.

Keep the vinyl top the trim pieces, clips and pins go for $300.00 USD here if you can find them.

David

About the hood, I found some interesting information in a "Mustang Restoration Guide" book:

Which correspondaing to my sticker:

And I found out what means 16A on the Chilton book:

So, or the hood have been changed over the years, the air cleaner box too.

God only knows.

Ok I would say the restoration manual is incorrect since Ford did not have a 351 4-V ram air in 73. You cannot see all of my sticker in the photo but my car is Q code 351 4-V, 4 speed with air, ps, pdb. Number is entirely different from yours. Does the manual show this number?

 

[timachone]

David,

I think, you are right!

I bought my decal as for a

1973 351C 4V with ram air!

So it is correct for my application but not "original correct" for a late '73 4V with 4-speed manual.

YOUR decal on your original left car is the decal that I should originally have if I all had left original because I have the same car as you. But I think little period correct modifications which I like are allowed...

 

[Manu Mach1]

Thank you Tim, yes of course I will keep it original as possible, I even don't want to remove the exaust to set some Hookers or whatever.

So, David we can read on your sticker K621 A G or A 6?

Anyway the book says: 1973 Mustang 351C-4V Non/Ram Air Engine.

Not the first time I found mistakes on this book.

 

[timachone]

I found this

http://fordification.net/tech/engineIDtags_cars.htm

and it helped me a lot to understand this hieroglyphics...

 

[Manu Mach1]

Fordification and MustangTek, lot of informations there, good found.

Water pump is ordered

That's all for today.[/font]

 

[nbracken]

Be sure you take lots of pictures before you take anything apart it looked like it had not been changed much from original.

I believe that when You got a Mach 1 in 73 you got the hood as part of the package and it also included hood locks. The hood might have been changed over the years. I looked at my window sticker and it does not list the hood or locks just the Tutone Hood Paint that cost $18.00.

Keep the vinyl top the trim pieces, clips and pins go for $300.00 USD here if you can find them.

David

About the hood, I found some interesting information in a "Mustang Restoration Guide" book:

Which correspondaing to my sticker:

And I found out what means 16A on the Chilton book:

So, or the hood have been changed over the years, the air cleaner box too.

God only knows.

Hi Manu

In the last photo in your post above which resto guide is this taken from please? I need some advice on the routing for the vacuum lines on the correct air cleaner I have bought for my Q code 72 Mach 1 and this looks to be just what I need. Thanks

 

[Manu Mach1]

Nbracken,

About the picture from the vacuum routing it comes from the Chilton 64/73 repair manual.

About the 72 4 bbl it's about 10 sheets from the "emission controls", means 18 different setup;

Do you have ram air or not? Then I can start by elimanation.




Little bit of progress







Interesting to see how the fuel pump is activated.

Sprokets and chain looks good. Just very dirty inside, looks like oil from the drilling rig.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

They probably ran a high paraffin base oil. My sister brought here AMC Gremlin over for my dad to work on. The valves were noisy so he pulled the valve cover. The paraffin had built up so bad it still looked like it had a valve cover on. One big clump of paraffin. She only used Quaker State oil since new.

Sludge build up is also a sign of lots of short runs never getting the engine hot and all the moisture out.

As long as it runs ok I would not worry about it. If you start trying to clean it up you might get the crud in the oil pump screen and then it pulls up and opens up the by pass hole that lets big chunks in.

Working on these cars always makes more work unless you set your limits. How far do you want to go??

David

 

[Manu Mach1]

Quaker state oil is something special?

How far is difficult to say because we always find something to do on those cars, still need to rebuilt the original Motorcraft carb, all belts, thermostat, AC pulley, need a engine seal kit, C6 tail seal, 4 shock absorbers. Then will be the body work with a new paint, will be done by a friend which is his job. I want a reliable and clean car. Don't want to upgrade to get more horse power or things like that.

On last models I read somewhere that exaust seats head were reenforced that allow to use unleaded gas.

Ignition will be something I want to change by an electronic one.

About oil: what garde of oil is the best?

On my Grandé I use 15w40 mineral.

Also need to change oil and filter on the C6 and finally the 9 inch rear end oil but first need to be removed by sucking it? I drilled a hole on the Grandé, built a thread and set a plug, I could remove the oil easaly.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Quaker state oil is something special?

How far is difficult to say because we always find something to do on those cars, still need to rebuilt the original Motorcraft carb, all belts, thermostat, AC pulley, need a engine seal kit, C6 tail seal, 4 shock absorbers. Then will be the body work with a new paint, will be done by a friend which is his job. I want a reliable and clean car. Don't want to upgrade to get more horse power or things like that.

On last models I read somewhere that exaust seats head were reenforced that allow to use unleaded gas.

Ignition will be something I want to change by an electronic one.

About oil: what garde of oil is the best?

On my Grandé I use 15w40 mineral.

Also need to change oil and filter on the C6 and finally the 9 inch rear end oil but first need to be removed by sucking it? I drilled a hole on the Grandé, built a thread and set a plug, I could remove the oil easaly.

Oil is each mans choice. I do not know what is available in Germany. If you use too high viscosity the rings on the pistons cannot scrape the oil off the cylinder walls and you will use oil and build carbon on the pistons. When you change the grease in the rear you should just jack up the rear. take the drums off and pull the axles. You probably need axle seals anyway so good time to do that. Then drop the driveshaft, which probably needs the Universal joints at least greased if not replaced. Pull the center section out. That way you can wash out the inside of the axle housing. Metal particles collect in the bottom of the housing. Wash everything out and if you have Traction Loc be sure and add the Ford Friction Modifier to the rear grease when going back. The grease lasts at least 70,000 miles so you will probably never have to change again. The axle bearings might need replacing also and that would clean up the rear. Since the drums are off you should check the wheel cylinders for any rust and change if there is rust. The flex hose in the rear might also need changing. See one thing just leads to 10 more, lol. You will know your car from inside out.

David

 

[Manu Mach1]

The rear brake hoses on its way, all the rest of the brake is new, from the MC the front and rear brake kit. The front drums are new, and the front hoses too.

You said on a previous post "Sludge build up is also a sign of lots of short runs never getting the engine hot and all the moisture out".

This afternoon I open the plug pan to remove the engine oil, at first some clear water came, I never saw this before, is this can be because what you said? Considering this car comes from Mississipi, lot of humidity.

I won't remove the rear end, but the axles maybe, or I'll drill a hole and set a plug, like I did on the Grandé.

I guess most of people who run non rebuilt engines use 20W50 mineral oil?

Hey David, I leave in France

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

The rear brake hoses on its way, all the rest of the brake is new, from the MC the front and rear brake kit. The front drums are new, and the front hoses too.

You said on a previous post "Sludge build up is also a sign of lots of short runs never getting the engine hot and all the moisture out".

This afternoon I open the plug pan to remove the engine oil, at first some clear water came, I never saw this before, is this can be because what you said? Considering this car comes from Mississipi, lot of humidity.

I won't remove the rear end, but the axles maybe, or I'll drill a hole and set a plug, like I did on the Grandé.

I guess most of people who run non rebuilt engines use 20W50 mineral oil?

Hey David, I leave in France

Humm, there should not be that much water in there but it might have sat a long time and heat and cold cycles cause water to condense inside if there is high humidity. Make sure the PCV system is hooked up and working and not clogged. This also gets the moisture out of the engine. I have never used a mineral oil only petroleum based. I always used 10 W 40 Havoline or Ford oil which use to be made by Havoline in my Mach 1. The newer vehicles use a synthetic / petroleum blend and it is 5 W 20 for the Ford engines. Oil is like women lots of them out there to choose from some good some not so good.

I would pull the center section out of the rear. You do not loose any adjustment it all comes out as one unit. There will be metal shavings in the bottom of the housing from gear and axle wear. It only takes a few minutes. You do not unbolt the yoke just around the outer edge.

And yes I knew you were from France since your first post when you bought the car.

David

 

[Manu Mach1]

I probably misunderstood you, actually I write and speak better that I understand ( I remember some teachers from Texas, in Aberdeen, Scotland, imagine that, very hard to understand), same with Scottish guys, very funny, but it's another story.

Ok so to remove the part you said from the rear end (carrier housing?), I need first to remove the drive shaft, is the hydraulic oil from the C6 will drop down? (anyway I want to change the filter then the oil, and the raer gearbox seal is leaking), but I need the gasket then to reassembly the rear end, and the list of my I need is huge already Ok one more gasket will not kill me).

There are lines missing, EGR valve is disconnected.

 

[timachone]

Manu,

I use 15W40 on this classic engines and I am looking for a relatively high zinc level, that's all. I used 20W50 but it seemed way too thick and doughy like unwarmed honey to quickly reach the special and long oil channels of the cleveland design - especially in the starting phase of the engine. So I came back to 15W40.

The right oil for your engine is a question of belief - there are zillions of threads about this in the world wide web - you must find you own strategy. I found out that 15W40 is the optimal viscosity for classic motors between 10W40 and 20W50 - but that is a bit experience and gut instincts togehter as in many other fields of restoring a car - and it's only MY opinion ;-)

 

[Manu Mach1]

Tim,

You 're right, there are a lot of discussions about that. It's like to add additive or not in the gas...

Lot of people around me use 20w50 mineral oil, some even change in winter by a 15w40. I use 15w40 in my Grandé (Shell Hélix HX 3) and the engine is not burning oil, I don't add zinc in the oil. Maybe I sould...

 

[Manu Mach1]

How is possible to treat the mecanic like that???!!









David, this remind me a story from you when you dad did open the 2 covers from a Javelin...

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Looks like that engine had paraffin base oil and was driven short runs for sure.

I have a F-150 Ford with 5.4 liter engine that has 257,000 miles on it and it is still clean cast iron inside. I drove 50 miles each way to work and I did not change oil by mileage. When it got one quart low I added a quart and when it got a quart low again I changed the oil. I use the Ford oil 5 W 20 like they recommend for that engine and it has given very good service. I drove in to Michigan non stop and back with no issues and will do again this week. I always let the engine warm up before leaving even now. It only takes a couple minutes and is much better for the engine for it to get some heat in the pistons.

I think you might as well pull the engine out and tear it down. The valve stem seals are bad to come apart and with all that slug in the engine the oil pump screen will be clogged. There is a hole in the oil pump screen so when it becomes blocked it pulls up and lets oil into the pump. If there are pieces of the valve stem seals in the oil pan the get sucked into the pump and lock it up and break the pump drive shaft. or actually blow up the oil filter when the pressure will not bypass.

That engine has over 40 years of abuse and needs some TLC.

You should pull the cowl / shock tower braces off when working on the valve covers.

Welcome to the world of owning a Mustang.

David

 

[Manu Mach1]

Your pick up has more than 400,000 km, shows that good maintenance can make mecanic to work fine for time.

I don't plan to remove the engine from the bay, I know it'ssomething I should do but this will be done later, when I don't know.

About the stem valves, I'll do with the heads on. The top heads are clean now, I removed all the mess that was there.

I found a few bee nest, one was inside the driver door, also inside there was this:





This piece of ????? was in the door, looks like the car went to swim in the Mississipi.

 

[computercarguy]

Mud wasp nest

 

[Manu Mach1]

Paraffin oil based? What's the viscosity of this one? I noticed that's the engine oil is very low viscosity, sure it's not 20W50.

I have some much to do, don't where I need to continue. I need to step away a bit and concentrate on something else for a while I guess.