front disc brake pads

[mach1000]

Anyone suggest a good front disc brake pad? I've found several suppliers don't have a hole for the pins that hold the outside pad on the caliper. Anyone else run into this?

I also don't want the squeaks like I have now with a no name brand I got off ebay.

 

[Don C]

I've always had good luck with Raybestos and Bendix. Here's a Raybestos that appears to have the holes:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1111067&cc=1132692&jnid=442&jpid=2

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

EBC makes a great (and expensive) front brake pad. I switched over to them a few years ago after suffering squeaks, poor braking, etc from the typical auto store brands. Complete set for the front runs about $100, but anything that enhances the stopping ability of my vert is worth that amount to me. I installed the Green pads.

First set I received were missing the holes, so I began a dialogue with the EBC USA front office that ended up with them admitting they screwed up in production during whatever run produced the pads that were in their stock at the time. It took about 3 months and they finally sent me a new set with the correct holes. Part of my dialogue with them included me scanning and sending them pages from the 73 factory manual showing how the pads and calipers were supposed to work. This was maybe 3-4 years ago, so I would hope they still have the right product in stock.

 

[mrmach1]

I'd go down to the local NAPA store and buy they're best NAPA brand. More then likely they are Wagners or some other top quality brand just sold in a NAPA box. Don't forget to buy some brake lube ( I'm sure you already know this).

 

[mach1000]

EBC makes a great (and expensive) front brake pad. I switched over to them a few years ago after suffering squeaks, poor braking, etc from the typical auto store brands. Complete set for the front runs about $100, but anything that enhances the stopping ability of my vert is worth that amount to me. I installed the Green pads.

First set I received were missing the holes, so I began a dialogue with the EBC USA front office that ended up with them admitting they screwed up in production during whatever run produced the pads that were in their stock at the time. It took about 3 months and they finally sent me a new set with the correct holes. Part of my dialogue with them included me scanning and sending them pages from the 73 factory manual showing how the pads and calipers were supposed to work. This was maybe 3-4 years ago, so I would hope they still have the right product in stock.

Ive checked several parts store over the counter pads and they were missing the holes. I don't understand how they could miss this in the engineering and manufacturing process. It's not just the 7173 mustangs and cougars that had the holes. The earlier 6970 also worked the same way.

I may check out EBC thanks for the tip.

 

[Mesozoic]

I run Hawk HPS pads in all of my Mustangs, very happy with their performance given my driving style.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

You should also get the small parts kit for the pads. Has the new pins and spring clips for the pads, the hold down springs for the pads that stay on the car when caliper is removed. The new guide bolts are included with the rubber boots that hold and cover them. The parts house wanted like $80.00 for the small parts kit. I just ordered one from eBay for a little over $20.00 with free shipping everything worked fine. The guide bolts have a special thread locker on them so they do not come loose and should be replaced each time or loctite them. Apply a little of the brake lube on them.

You should also take the caliper apart. They very seldom go bad. You can get new seal and boot. The caliper piston is chrome plated to prevent rust so just clean it with fine steel wool. I blast the caliper body to get all the crud out of the inside. I also either replace or clean the bleeder valve. I put anti size on the bleeder thread to prevent sticking. Wash everything with brake cleaner or alcohol before assembly and blow out good.

The dust boot is a little tricky getting on you put it into the body of the caliper first after you have installed the seal. Then you put the piston down through the dust boot and use a hook tool to work the boot up around the piston. Of course you lube it all with clean brake fluid before assembly. I push the piston all the way in and then put a block of wood between the caliper body and the piston and use air to blow it out but not all the way and work it a couple times to make sure the seal is working. The hoses have tiny holes so you might want to replace them to make sure the inside has not come apart. They are special and unique to each side.

The rear brakes come in I think 4 or 5 different configurations so you have to measure the width and dia. before you go to buy any parts. There are different cylinders in rear also.

Do a through job and you will not have any issues, brakes are pretty simple and you don't need special tools although the drum brakes go easier if you have the spring pliers.

Just did this last week.

David