Can't Remove Caliper From Front Disc Brake Rotor

[351c1971]

If you buy rebuilt calipers, be sure that the rebuilder replaces the pistons. Once the chrome plating wears off, the used pistons are very to rust prematurely. Another option is to rebuild them yourself.

 

[California 72]

Its sold in harbor freight and oreiley auto parts stores here. It really is amazing stuff. I've had bolts that were rusted so bad they needed penetrating oil to get loose. Soak them in evaporust and they look brand new the next day. No scrubbing. I just wipe them off with blue paper towells.

That's actually great to see with the brake parts. I originally had planned on doing a disc swap for the rears mostly because I wanted to avoid buying "repliparts" because cleaning that stuff was tedious. This is actually a great way I can just rebuild the original parts. There are also a couple areas that are more difficult to reach or use the blaster so, I'll pick some up next time I'm out.

Thanks!

 

[Vern Cook]

2 Liters of vinegar will do the same for about $2. Just keep everything covered for two or three days and then clean it all off with Kurly Kate. If you have alot of stuff you might have to spend $4.
I use PVC pipe of all size diameters with a cap on the bottom as a container.

 

[71convert]

Thanks for everyone's suggestions. After not budging the caliper by spraying on Kroil and waiting a day, then Krud Kutter (The Must For Rust) and waiting a few days, then using a C clamp to depress the caliper, I finally gave up and resorted to violence. I used a large screwdriver, a breaker bar and a dead blow hammer. After about 15 minutes of slamming, it finally came off!

I soaked the caliper in Evaporust (never used it before) and it cleaned up nice for now. I emptied the rest of the brake fluid in the caliper and sprayed Kroil inside of it hoping this will free up the piston. Will be using my compressor and an air gun to try and blow out the piston later today after I let it soak overnight. Saw this video on WCCC that gave me the idea:



Will let everyone know how I make out.

 

[MikeGriese]

Compressed air is your friend at this point. Put a heavy rag or a piece of wood in the caliper before applying air. Once the piston frees up, it can go sailing surprisingly fast.

 

[71convert]

Thanks Mike. I will make sure to do that.

 

[MikeGriese]

Watch your fingers too.

 

[cv_72mustang]

Who needs nuts bolts when rust will work!!

 

[Hemikiller]

If compressed air won't work, you can pump it full of grease to force it out hydraulically.

 

[351c1971]

The caliper seal is between the "O" ring and the piston so both should be replaced during a rebuild. Pay particular attention to cleaning the "O" ring groove or it will be very difficult to re-install the piston. You might also consider replacing the bleeder valves. I believe Rock Auto/Dorman has them.

 

[71convert]

The caliper seal is between the "O" ring and the piston so both should be replaced during a rebuild. Pay particular attention to cleaning the "O" ring groove or it will be very difficult to re-install the piston. You might also consider replacing the bleeder valves. I believe Rock Auto/Dorman has them.

Thanks 351c1971. I figured i would need to replace all of the seals and probably the piston.

 

[351c1971]

If you have some extra energy, you can shoot some Rust-Oleum Silver High Temperature Paint on the calipers. It sells for around $7.00 at Home Depot and is good for 1200 degrees F. Be sure to wire brush them and remove all grease and oil before painting.

 

[351c1971]

I used Dorman #66272 Copper Washers on the caliper hose fittings. It seems like they do not come in all rebuild kits.