Front wheel bearing allowable "wobble"

[tony-muscle]

That's very true, they SHOULD. The hubs and spindles are in good condition. I'm using the one piece rotor/hub combination. I've had other issues over recent years with poor quality bearings on a couple of brand new work trailers. If I were just driving around town on occasional weekends I wouldn't worry as much but breaking down 10 hours from home, in the rain, on I-40, with a very minimal shoulder taught me a boy scout lesson... LOL! 

Good point. I will go ahead and buy spare bearings just in case. They are cheap and small to carry an extra set around.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

On the wobble. Check to see that your nut is not bottoming out on the threads on the spindle. You might try putting an extra washer on the outside just to make sure it is not bottomed out and giving you a wrong torque reading. Maybe spindle threads not long enough.
You might try swapping sides with the hub and see if it wobbles on both spindles.
One mistake some owner's make when installing any bearing it to hit it with a hammer. Yes in an emergency you can use a piece of pipe to hit only the inner race on a ball bearing. You should always use a hydraulic press to install bearings and especially the races in the hub.

I had two uncles that worked for Timken bearing in Canton Ohio. I got to do a full tour of the facility from making the steel to finished products out the door. They made bearings you could sit inside, for the steel rolling mills, down to tiny small ones. The tolerances are held to millionths of an inch. Pretty much all gauges were air gauges to be able to check close enough. Tapered bearings like in the front hubs are much easier to make than ball bearings. If the outer race is a little bigger it just lets the bearing cage drop in a little deeper. As long as the angles on the races and bearings are right it all works out.
If Covid had not hit I was headed to China to follow tooling being built for Timken bearing. Just by chance met the buyer and nobody at Timken wanted to go to China. Why I do not know safer there than here. I need to make contact with him now I could use some mad money.

 

[Hemikiller]

I use the same bearing tightening procedure and finger-tighten the nut to the point it takes out any noticeable slack or movement in the rotor. Spin the rotor while torqueing, back off, then turn the nut in while rocking the top of the rotor in and out. Once there is no noticeable play, I'll put the cage and cotter in place. Never had any bearing failures with this procedure. 

FWIW, I always replace the races in rotor assemblies, do not trust them. Will only use USA or Japanese made bearings, whatever the brand.