Grabber Lime 429 Mach Restoration Update - Console

[Motorcity Mustang]

Finally finished the restoration of the console and am ready to put it into the car.   Ended up putting a reproduction bezel in the console as it was cheaper than having the original re-chromed.   No broken areas on the console which made it nice.  Once this is installed, next comes the dashboard and seats and the interior is complete.  Then we move on to the undercarriage for the suspension and powertrain installation!

 

[Idaho Chris]

Looks great, got any "before" pics?

 

[timachone]

That looks really fantastic, like new, wow  :thumb:

 

[Fabrice]

Another step nicely completed!

Ended up putting a reproduction bezel in the console as it was cheaper than having the original re-chromed.

I plate most of my parts and indeed it's very frustrating not having found yet a cheapo yet quality way to plate plastics.
Need re-dive into this, there must be a way to spray something conductive enough..

 

[kcmash]

I am putting reproduction bezels in my dash now.  Amazing how reproduction screw bosses are in the wrong location and not tall enough in some cases plus poor gate trimming on an appearance surface.  They took some cheap cuts in the reproduction stuff.

Question.  Why are you installing the console before the dash?  Or did I read that wrong?  The console has always been the first thing I remove when doing dash or center stack work.

kcmash

 

[Motorcity Mustang]

I am putting reproduction bezels in my dash now.  Amazing how reproduction screw bosses are in the wrong location and not tall enough in some cases plus poor gate trimming on an appearance surface.  They took some cheap cuts in the reproduction stuff.

Question.  Why are you installing the console before the dash?  Or did I read that wrong?  The console has always been the first thing I remove when doing dash or center stack work.

kcmash

Sorry, it meant to say dash pad.   I did install the dash before this.  

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I have done lots of consoles. The Carpenter lids are perfect matches as are their ash trays. The lighted ash tray was a Cougar only thing. But my 73 Mach 1 had a lighted ash tray. Those guys on the line just took a part to the line no backing up with 2 min. to finish their tasks.

 

[Motorcity Mustang]

I have done lots of consoles. The Carpenter lids are perfect matches as are their ash trays. The lighted ash tray was a Cougar only thing. But my 73 Mach 1 had a lighted ash tray. Those guys on the line just took a part to the line no backing up with 2 min. to finish their tasks.

The console I just put in mine also has a light on it.  Two of my other ones do also, but three others don't have lights.  Interesting.

 

[Motorcity Mustang]

Interior is just about finished.  Console and dash pad are in!  Just new seat upholstery and door panels.  Was hoping to use my original seat coverings, but can't find an unscathed front bottom seat without a seam split or tear, so new it is.  Same on the door panels, can't see to find a nice straight, unscathed drivers door panel, or anyone that can repair the cracks in the arm rests (deluxe doors).  So may have to buy new ones.  

 

[c9zx]

Everything looks great, as is usual for your work. Chuck

 

[ponypastor]

Mike:

Well done. Looks like new!

The black paint on my center console lid keeps rubbing off from the effects of my right arm.

What type of interior paint will withstand the repeated rubbing by the arm?

Thanks, tim

 

[Motorcity Mustang]

Mike:

Well done. Looks like new!

The black paint on my center console lid keeps rubbing off from the effects of my right arm.

What type of interior paint will withstand the repeated rubbing by the arm?

Thanks, tim

Tim,  I have used the flexible paint from NPD or Ohio Mustang and have had good luck in the past.  I do know you have to prep it correctly or will come off.  Not sure on the wear though, that sounds like it has been prepped correctly, but just wearing off?

 

[kcmash]

Interior is just about finished.  Console and dash pad are in!  Just new seat upholstery and door panels.  Was hoping to use my original seat coverings, but can't find an unscathed front bottom seat without a seam split or tear, so new it is.  Same on the door panels, can't see to find a nice straight, unscathed drivers door panel, or anyone that can repair the cracks in the arm rests (deluxe doors).  So may have to buy new ones.  

View attachment 48165

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View attachment 48168

Any good tips on locating the holes for the console through the new carpet?  I am thinking of coming up from the bottom side with a hot soldering iron so the screws wont snag the carpet.  Did you locate the previous mounting holes, or just drill new ones?

kcmash

 

[Stanglover]

Any good tips on locating the holes for the console through the new carpet?  I am thinking of coming up from the bottom side with a hot soldering iron so the screws wont snag the carpet.  Did you locate the previous mounting holes, or just drill new ones?

kcmash

Good plan to burn the holes. The loop type carpet will pull a thread for sure if you just try to run a screw through it and could ruin the carpet.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Also wire brush and put cande wax on the screws to help not catching carpet. Would wait until transmission in to screw down console. On the door panels there is a place that recover will see if I can ocate. California I think.

 

[kcmash]

How do you guys repair this?

Model glue?  JBWeld? Solvent?  Which solvent for the console repairs?

 

[Stanglover]

How do you guys repair this?

Model glue?  JBWeld? Solvent?  Which solvent for the console repairs?

View attachment 48205

 It's ABS plastic so it can be solvent glued. Personally I welded mine from the back, but then I have the equipment to weld plastics. You can try with an 80 watt solder iron with a clean flat tip and basically 'stitch' it in to hold it. Once that far, if you can add a layer of suitable solvent glue, or if you have extra pieces of the same plastic, you can add strips of that and work it all together with the iron., or glue it over the top of the repair. You can really only work from the back unless you're not to worried about appearance at that location. 

My problem is I know how I would do it and it's hard to explain and put into words. Hope this helps.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

The console is ABS plastic so you can use the black ABS pipe glue from hardware store. I go to the back side and rough it up and put epoxy and layers of fiberglass mat to reinforce it. Just bring screws in contact with plastic do not really torque them down.
On painting them. I do not use the old lids. The Daniel Carpenter lids look and fit like original. I use the lacquer aint on them. Keep you a towel in the console to put on when driving.
If there are chunks missing at the screws you can do a couple different repairs. If you have a broken grill or trash A pillar covers I stick a DA coarse pad to work bench and grind up some. I put in glass container and mix acetone with and fill in the gaps. You can also use this putty. I use it to repair steering wheels also.

 

[Motorcity Mustang]

Any good tips on locating the holes for the console through the new carpet?  I am thinking of coming up from the bottom side with a hot soldering iron so the screws wont snag the carpet.  Did you locate the previous mounting holes, or just drill new ones?

kcmash

I cam through the original holes from the bottom.  Stuck a meat thermometer in each hole from the bottom to make the hole up through the new underlayment and carpet (my wife doesn't know I used the thermometer (I suggest a awl next time)).  Then I stuck small long allen wrenches through the holes and marked them on the top of the carpet in white.  Then cut and "X" in the material using an exacto knife.  Put the console over the hole markings and put the screws in one by one.  Worked great, not carpet stuck on the threads.  Funny what you do when you do it alone!!!