Grrrr brakes again

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Oh wow.  But... you wanted that big block. :whistling:  ::thumb::

You SO need to put up some pics when you get a chance... :cool:

 
Did you use stock pads up front of something more aggressive like ceramics?  Our cars don't generate sufficient pressure for ceramic pads.

If you want to, you can PM me your mailing address, I'll pack up and send you a brake line pressure gauge and you can check and see what you are getting and if you are in the right range pressure wise.  I won't need it til late this summer, just send it back when you are done.
Just using standard pads..

 
I'm ordering one from GPS.Yes it's due to the thickness.The studs will come out of the holes but not alot.Had to tweak the brake pedal rod down pretty good and remove valve cover to get it out and it was still very tight.I hope I don't have to pull engine to get the new one in.
Well, if the new one does not fit, consider sending your old one in for rebuild.

 
Gps brakes said the new one was slightly thinner than oem so it shouldn't be an issue.

 
Gps brakes said the new one was slightly thinner than oem so it shouldn't be an issue.
You know, I think I remember seeing that.  My original came out easy enough, but the new one dropped right in - no issues.  Hopefully, you'll enjoy similar results. ::thumb::

That thing is freaken bad-ass!!  Well done, sir!  :bravo:

 
Does anyone have any experience/ thoughts on the SSBC caliper upgrade?

 
I looked at it and it looks nice. But your line pressures are still the same and your rotor size is still the same, so I don't know how big of an upgrade it really is and with anything of that nature, your MC may need to be changed to accommodate. Still on my list of things to consider down the road

 
I was wondering if the bigger pad contact area would make much difference.I understand line pressure would be the same.Im considering it since I have to go thru a complete bleed out again.

 
I have the wilwood in the front and a hybrid in the back that is based on the popular ElDorado disk brake conversion. The system works well but i know is not to its full potential. Adjusting the rear disk brakes in this setup is tricky due to the parking brake. This adjustment has causes a large effect in brake pedal feel. If the pads are lose then it takes a longer pedal travel to engage making them feel weak.

That said you may want to check the adjustment of your drum brakes.

1971 M-code Mach 1

 
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Well got the new booster from GPS on Saturday.Got everything back together.Bench bled MC.Bled the system again,Rear drums won't gravity bleed,but they will bleed with the two man method.Front brakes will gravity bleed.Seems like rear brakes are working pretty good and front disks not so much.They are working slightly better than before.I tried with the vacuum pump off and on,doesn't seem to be any difference.Pedal is still weak.Back drums are adjusted correctly if anything they are out too far.

 
Is the new booster holding vacuum?

Is the push rod adjusted correctly?

Do you have a little free play on the brake pedal?

The master cylinder may still be the culprit.

 
Just an fyi.. The front brakes take 60% of the cars' weight when stopping.  If the rear drum brakes are taking up most of the weight instead, you get the feeling that the pedal is hard when depressed, but the car does not seem to want to stop.

INMO

 
The new booster is holding and it's working.

I got another new MC with the booster. I talked to tech at GPS,he said they adjust the pushrod correctly and have never had an issue there.

There's some free play .

I really don't think it's a bad mc.This is the 3rd one I've had on the car 2 of them were new.

GPS brakes gave me some tests to perform I just haven't had time to do them yet.

Just a fyi.I talked to GPS about the upgraded 4 piston front calipers.He said they do work maybe slightly better but not a night and day difference not worth the money for the very little you might gain.

 
That was my feeling on the 4-piston upgrade, too. To get a significant difference you have to go with a bigger diameter rotor. The rotor acts like a lever, the longer a lever is past the fulcrum the easier it is to move something, or too keep it from moving.

 
I have the Wilwood 140-13477, which has a 11.3" rotor, which is the same diameter as stock (so I think),

http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront.aspx?itemno=140-13477

I wanted to replace all so I decided in this direction instead of stock. I like the idea of having individual pistons on each side but I am not too convinced it will greatly enhance braking unless the car is raced, which it won't. In theory the four pistons should improve the contact between pads and disk, so brake power is improved, but as said, limited by the disc diameter. Another factor that's probably improved is pad cooling; therefore, in racing conditions, less brake fade. At the end, I think it is cool to have upgraded brakes, just don't expect a great improvement.

 
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