73MustangGrande
Active member
- Joined
- Jul 3, 2015
- Messages
- 35
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Bradenton, FL
- My Car
- 1973 Mustang Grande, 351C, FMX, coming out of 20 year sleep.
Well, an update was wanted, so here it be. The engine was pulled and the freeze plugs were replaced along with a worn out timing chain. It still needs a new distributor, but I put some points in it and that'll get it by until I can get an HEI unit for it. After doing that and cleaning up the carburetor as best I could, it went back in the car. It will run fast only with the choke on and rev great, but will not idle. I borrowed the carburetor off of my truck to make sure I could get it to run right and it ran better, but not great. I tune with a vacuum gauge and it was bouncing all over the place. Being this thing sounded like it was cammed, which I doubt, I pulled plug wires once at a time to find which one(s) didn't change how it ran. Turns out it only runs (idles) on four cylinders. Did a compression check and all are under 120 with the highest being 118. That would explain why it doesn't idle but will rev up and run fast just fine. One small issue though was that number one was 0. Pulled the valve cover and it had a bent push rod. That valve is stuck open. I also found a bunch of water to come out of that cylinder when I spun the engine over just to watch the rockers to make sure all the other valves were opening and closing. Pulled the head and it doesn't look good. I can fix it, but it's not something I was hoping to find. So come Monday, I'll call up a local machine shop to put in a new valve guide and I'll lap in the valves myself. Being this engine has no blow-by, I'm hoping it just needs the valve seats cleaned up to bring up the compression. I have a '76 Plymouth Scamp with the 225 and it was the same way; idled bad but ran and revved great. It had about 90 psi in number six while the rest were up around 140. Being I was the first one to adjust the valves in over 20 years, I thought I caused the problem. Opened it up, cleaned up the valves and it makes 140 in every hole. I'm hoping I can get away with the same on this. With the roof, whoever did it before had done a terrible patch job, and even after removing the panels that were pop-riveted on, I don't think it's gonna be too much better, but I can at least get it looking good after paint with the body filler. I'm cutting all the rust out of the floor and welding in little patch panels. I'm not good with a welder, so I feel more comfortable doing something that can't be seen rather than something that can. I also had to weld the trunk latch back on to the body and the trunk closes absolutely perfect to my surprise.