Help Identify this connector

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Fordguy427

Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2024
Messages
9
Reaction score
8
Location
Potomac, MD
My Car
71 Mustang Convertible
Good afternoon,

The vehicle is a 1971 Mustang Convertible. I had the heater box out of the car just a few days ago, replaced the bypassed heater core with a new heater core and also a new A/C evaporator core. Replaced all the old foam seals and fixed several cracks in the OEM fiberglass box halves. Also repaired the drain nipple at the bottom that some previous owner or shop snapped off and then attempted to reattach using about 15lbs of black rubber adhesive. At any rate, after I had reinstalled the heater box and was putting the cardboard glovebox back in….I noticed a connector hanging down not attached to anything. This was clearly an original connector (not like the household wire nuts I found that the previous owner/hack had used to connect the stereo) but I couldn’t see where the connector should attach so I made a mental note about it and finished the heater box install. Fast forward a few days and I am replacing the broken convertible top up/down switch. I am also removing the left hand instrument cluster with the 4 idiot lights and sending it off to RCCI to have Bob convert it to a tach. I have the whole dashpad out. I happened to look down through the passenger side windshield while the dashpad was out and lo and behold I see the relay (I think its a realy?) that the connector should attach to. The relay is attached to the metal framework above the glovebox. I would love to reattach it……but before I do that I would like to know what that relay does? Why would someone detach the connector and leave it hanging? Sloppy mechanical work? Maybe, but also maybe something was malfunctioning and this was the way they dealt with it. Unfortunately, I dont have a 71 wiring diagram. The wires going into the connector look to be red and black/ purple tracer. The part number on the relay is D0AB-13150F. There is more to this mystery, I see a black rubber molded connector that has 3 wires going into it (brown, brown, and green) that has been wrapped with black electrical tape and isnt connected to anything. I will attach photos. Any help from electrical experts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading my novel.

Bill
 

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Thank you midlife, much appreciated. I will test it out tomorrow and see if it works. Somebody, at some point, wrapped that 2 pin plug with electrical tape. Most of the rest of the electrical in the vehicle looks pretty original….with the glaring exception of the orange wire nuts used for the stereo installation. OMG, I pulled the center instrument bezel out and it looked like somebody broke open a box of 50 wire nuts on the floor of aisle 7 in Home Depot! I had already seen a few when I was removing the heater box that were used on the speaker wires, but this was a whole nother level of hacking.
 
Here's a breakdown of the entire relay plate.

Which relays and buzzers were installed depends upon the options and model of the car. The 1971 and pre-12/1/71 built 1972 convertibles had a seat belt reminder as standard equipment. You'll have a "belts" warning light next to the headlight switch, which will illuminate for a few seconds after turning the ignition on. The timer for that is the long aluminum rectangular unit on the driver's side of that plate (10B924)

1733150878788.png
 
My connector block was also hanging off, so I connected it up and the buzzer sounds when the key is in the ignition and the door is open. Whenever I am working on the car and require the ignition on with the door open, the buzzer is now becoming annoying, so I am in two minds whether to pull off the connector plug just for peace and quite.
 
I believe you found out why it was disconnected ..... ;)

To be honest, Ford did a great job with those reminder buzzers. They we so incredibly annoying, there wasn't a chance you'd forget your keys, or leave your lights on. The real fun came in Dec 71 when they added the active seat belt reminder buzzer, so you could have two going off in sync.
 
Thank you for all the info. Hemikiller…..that diagram is pure gold. As for the wiring diagrams at the top of the page under 7173 wiki, I had no idea. Never clicked on that. Thank you. Just had the hood PDR’ed this morning. First guy I took it to really had no interest in doing the job. Quoted $1500-$2K with almost a month lead time, and also wanted me to bring the hood to him off the car. That led me to investigate buying a new hood and getting it painted, also an expensive propostion. Ran into a guy at a chili cook off that gave me a reference. Went to him last week, he looked at it, agreed it was wrecked and then quoted me $600 and told me he would come to my house. He did, worked for almost 3 hours and it turned out fantastic. Now I can look out over the hood at traffic and not get distracted by all the hail dents! Now that I’m keeping the hood I have to get up the nerve to drill 2 holes in it for the hood locks!
 
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