I heave the guys across the pond using Vinegar to clean the rust off. I use feed grade Molasses. Trunks and hoods are tough to clean soo long. You need to stand on end to get the air out of the reinforcement so it cleans the rust off. My tank is not tall enough to get the whole part in. Using something like a kids swimming pools does not work you just cannot get the air out.
You go to feed store and get feed grade molasses and mix 9 parts water with it so 5 gallons of molasses give you 50 gallons of solution. It costs $18.00 here might be cheaper in Florida where they grow more cane.
I started out with a Brutt garbage can and ended up with a 275 gallon bulk chemical tank. Go on Craigslist can usually find them for $50- $60. I cut the top out and hang the parts. It will not do anything if parts have oil or grease on them. Will not take paint off unless it has rust under it.
When I take out of tank I pressure wash and you have to put Phosphate solution on immediately to prevent flash rust.
I just did the filler panel from a 72 convertible. I have a Q code vert that PO had just filled the holes in with bondo between the rear window and trunk. I had bought a crashed 72 vert that had a totally rust free filler panel even though it was from Michigan. I say rust free. Inside the panel between inner and outer there is always rust. So I soaked in the molasses, pressure washes. Wiped down with phosphate poured some inside and worked it around the joints. I dried the part in the sun and use heat gun to make sure very dry.
I poured POR Paint Over Rust inside and got into all the cracks and corners. Used paint brush to brush where I could and bent an acid brush to get the back side of the reinforcement. Looked inside with mirror. Part is ready to go back on my neck just will not let me do anything, SUCKS. Wanted to be painted by now.
They do sell some kits for spraying inside the hood and trunk reinforcements to gain some protection. Even if you get a new one with e-coat it will not be inside between the inner and outer. You need to strip that junk off before paint at least on outside.
I have done fenders, trunks, dashes, wheels, chrome pieces, cast iron, headers, heads. Anything with rust goes into the molasses.
Never sand blast an exterior panel. Maybe floors and frame rails but go easy. The sand is like millions of hammers and distorts the metal to make scrap. If you soda blast it is very difficult to get the soda residue off the metal and has causes many people lots of pain when painting. Plastic media seems to be the best right now.
I stripped the paint off this part with liquid Aircraft paint stripper brushed on. If it dries up too fast put a sheet of saran wrap or stretch wrap on the area. Use razor blade scraper and wear gloves for sure and googles. Will eat you up.
You can also take and have put in a tank to strip it but that removes all the sealer and the dabs of sealer they put between the inner and outer to keep it from flopping in the wind, lol. If you tank strip only deal with some that can dip in phosphate tank after or you will have red rust in minutes.
Here are a few pics of the filler panel I just did.
I do have several NASA hoods two with locks to without they are Ford.
Like Kevin stated the repo parts are made from some really soft CR usually IF material and very low carbon so it dents very easily. Mustangs today use a material in doors that is a high strength material and you will see very few door dings in them. But if crashed you cannot do much body work the material is so hard.
The work bench I am using is actually an old drafting table. Has electric height adjustment and tilts to any angle that works. I use it all the time got for $10.00 at a Goodwill store still had the drafting head on it.
Getting this panel back in is a pain. Original had the reinforcement put in and then the skin panel added but you cannot do that as an assembly. So I will probably braze some of the areas.
Areas you see not coated are mating surface and have to weld or braze there but will have seam sealer applied.
The Gold Glow vert had been in Grand Rapids Michigan all of it's life and absolutely not a spot of rust in the convertible top drain. I have California vert that had lots of rust there.
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