How much should this work cost?

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Three grand doesn't sound too bad. Yanking the heads is a lot of work, especially if the exhaust bolts are being stubborn. Pulling the front off the engine to replace the cam takes some time too.

And imagine the look on this face when he figured out a 'normal' spring compressor didn't work on the front end.

You didn't get a killer deal but I don't think you are getting ripped off either.

Heck, I paid something like $450 for an electric fan replacement on my wife's liberty. I ended up having to do some other work and figure out the entire job probably took all of 30 minutes. :)

 
sadly you have 2 choices well 3.

1)Learn to do it yourself

2)Pay the bills

3)sell the car

I am a huge fan of #1

Prices seem ok really,

This is what is not itemized,

drain radiator

drain oil

remove exhaust collector bolts

remove exhaust manifolds

remove alt

remove PS

remove AC if equipped

Remove fan shroud

Remove radiator(if needed to pull cam)

Remove dist and wires

remove fan and spacer

remove intake bolts

remove intake

Remove head bolts

remove rocker arms

remove heads

Send heads to machine shop

remove water pump bolts

remove water pump

Remove Radiator and heater hoses

remove timing gear and chain ( may have to remove damper and crank pulley first )

remove Pushrods and lifters

Remove camshaft

Clean all surfaces

reverse above steps.

This is for the engine alone.

Does this help a little? old greasy rusted bolts not nice and clean like an import.

You are paying for the warranty and his/her expertise that the work is correctly performed and that is the real value and cost.

 
O'k, thanks. Now lets just hope it runs like a beast. It needs to because my 8500 dollar car will hit 15000 tomorrow
LOL! I think we all have stories like that (paid X, now worth 20X).

I'm in agreement with the others: you didn't get once-in-a-lifetime ultimate smokin' deal, but you also didn't get hosed. I like the sentiment of calling it a good day if they even washed your car before you pick it up. THAT would tell me they're detail oriented and will go the extra mile to ensure the customer is happy.

I hope it works out how you want it to.

 
I like the sentiment of calling it a good day if they even washed your car before you pick it up. THAT would tell me they're detail oriented and will go the extra mile to ensure the customer is happy.
Something I always did in my shop: Car was always washed vacuumed before delivery to the customer.

 
I totally believe that, Scott! You're a very detail-oriented kinda guy. Plus, it's such a simple thing to do to guarantee they'll come back, aside from the good work, of course.

 
I fully built my motorcycle and know every bolt. I restored my last mustang to a nice driver but this time I don't have the time. On this car I needed it fast and I run a large business and time is a premium for me, I did the seats, will complete the interior rejuvenation when I get my car back, fixed everything I could with the time I had and decided this was better served by a professional. I need my car to run properly and I did not have time to do it. I returned my lease and this is going to be my daily driver so the shop is the right choice for me. I needed a reference point, and I got a whole lot more.

He called today and told me the intake was leaking where the EGR valve plate is, they did the old intake leak check with brake cleaner and the manifold was leaking there. He told me that should not be under vacuum and that something was wrong with the manifold. I decided I am going to buy an Edelbrock dual plane without EGR and be done with this job. He will install once it arrives and I will pick my car up. In the mean time I will still drive his Yukon he loaned me. That was part of the deal if it took too long. Took long was after the car went back from lease. I am a little curious about the comment about the vacuum from EGR mount area on manifold because I have no clue what it does. Mine is blocked off and the cover is leaking so I am going to do what I like, change it too what I want. Would love to know how you feel about vacuum there, is that normal? Is that passage part of the intake path or am I thinking about this wrong.

 
EGR is under manifold vacuum all of the time, except wide open throttle.

I don't understand what the mech is saying...

Even if it's leaking vacuum around the carb anywhere, just needs resealed/gasket of some sort (new base gasket, reseal the block off plate, etc.).

Shouldn't be a biggie, I wouldn't think.

Cast iron manifolds just don't go bad. I mean, it *can* happen, but chances are... one in a zillion.

Here's a tip, too. Don't use any RTV when resealing intake leaks. Gas will turn it into snot and create more problems. Been there. If replacing carb base gasket or similar, only clean and dry mating surfaces should be the rule.

 
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It is a Wieand aluminum intake with a whole lot of odd hardware that was was pieced together to plug all the holes. It came on the car and looks a lot like a Frankenmanifold. The part about vacuum there made no sense to me either since I looked inside the great big EGR opening and it was open to the runners if I recall correctly. I think the problem is the home made EGR manifold cover. I bought a manifold with all new hardware so the problem will be gone next week and I will have a fairly perfect modded car. Thanks for confirming my suspicion about the manifold, I suspect I bought a manifold because the $10.00 EGR cover plate is crap.

 
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Very well put injectedmach. Every one of things listed could be easy or they could be difficult and lead to more work. Value is rarely put on the labor pains it takes to get it done.

 
IF your shop did a proper job with love and care, $3k would be more than reasonable. The premium you pay is for the knowledge and skill of the mechanic.

As for the intake - what your mechanic meant is that it shouldn't be sucking air. What scares me is that these folks were tripped up by a simple EGR leak, and can't work their way around it. What scares me even more is that I cannot find evidence of an EGR-equipped Weiand 351C manifold.

-Kurt

 
IF your shop did a proper job with love and care, $3k would be more than reasonable. The premium you pay is for the knowledge and skill of the mechanic.

As for the intake - what your mechanic meant is that it shouldn't be sucking air. What scares me is that these folks were tripped up by a simple EGR leak, and can't work their way around it. What scares me even more is that I cannot find evidence of an EGR-equipped Weiand 351C manifold.

-Kurt
Kurt,

https://www.holley.com/products/intakes/single_plane_manifolds/parts/7517

I don't understand why they can't seal it up UNLESS it has a crack..or the mounting studs are not flat & it's pulling the plate off the manifold when torqued..A simple fix is to drill a hole & tap for a small 1/4-20 bolt across from the 2 intake bolts so this way you triangulate the egr plate so it can't pull off has even torque all around. or if it has a crack thats not 2 bad isn't flat you could jb weld the plate to the manifold that would seal it for sure I'd try that before i would pull the manifold again.

 
That is why I ordered a manifold. I also could not find one similar and the person that owned this car pieced together things with what appeared to be spare ill fitted hardware and I thought it would be best to remove the suspect part and go from there. He told me if it was him he would change it, he could make or buy a new plug but he was also not all that excited about the Frankenparts on the manifold and thought he would have to cut a lot of new threads. The PO used bolts as plugs for example and bolts are rarely pipe thread. To be perfectly frank, I think he did not want to screw around trying to fix a home made cover that did not seal the hole properly, remove all the odd ball hardware and plug that stuff up and I told him I did not want to cut corners at this point. He says it runs great but has a small leak there and it would not be perfect if it is not fixed. It will be fixed next week and then I will get to see how it was supposed to run.

 
That is why I ordered a manifold. I also could not find one similar and the person that owned this car pieced together things with what appeared to be spare ill fitted hardware and I thought it would be best to remove the suspect part and go from there. He told me if it was him he would change it, he could make or buy a new plug but he was also not all that excited about the Frankenparts on the manifold and thought he would have to cut a lot of new threads. The PO used bolts as plugs for example and bolts are rarely pipe thread. To be perfectly frank, I think he did not want to screw around trying to fix a home made cover that did not seal the hole properly, remove all the odd ball hardware and plug that stuff up and I told him I did not want to cut corners at this point. He says it runs great but has a small leak there and it would not be perfect if it is not fixed. It will be fixed next week and then I will get to see how it was supposed to run.
I agree Ralph..If it's been hacked together numerous times then yes..time for a new one..I was just throwing out some possible fixes IF everything was in good shape..OR if it was a vintage rare manifold like the F-351 I used in my motor build.

 
They found all kinds of not so kosher stuff on the car. Missing exhaust manifold bolts, frankenhardware all over the manifold, emergency brake not installed correctly, and and and. I look forward to driving it so I can get it home and finish the interior next weekend. May go get some Dynomax mufflers instead of the too loud Flowmasters. Look forward to having the center console in there as well.

 
Kurt,

https://www.holley.com/products/intakes/single_plane_manifolds/parts/7517

I don't understand why they can't seal it up UNLESS it has a crack..or the mounting studs are not flat & it's pulling the plate off the manifold when torqued..A simple fix is to drill a hole & tap for a small 1/4-20 bolt across from the 2 intake bolts so this way you triangulate the egr plate so it can't pull off has even torque all around. or if it has a crack thats not 2 bad isn't flat you could jb weld the plate to the manifold that would seal it for sure I'd try that before i would pull the manifold again.
Now I got it. The EGR plate is open to the runners.

Isn't this an H-code though? You wouldn't have an "original" EGR spacer if you've gone to a 4 barrel setup, and if it's a Q-code, you'd have a spacer made for an Autolite 4300D spreadbore, which wouldn't work with anything but the 4300D carb. EDIT: Found your VIN on another thread. H-code.

If you have the 4300D spacer and carb, they should have been put to the side long ago. If you have a 4-barrel intake conversion on an H-code, there shouldn't be any EGR plate there to begin with. Spacer, maybe. EGR, no.

This is what should be under your carb if not a 4300D, and nothing else, really. There shouldn't be any problem with your Summit or Holley mounted on a 1/2" or 1" spacer like the one below, on your existing Weiand manifold:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Phenolic-Carburator-Spacer-4-Hole-Chevy-Ford-Chrysler-Holley-Edelbrock-/271428828496?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f326b3d50&vxp=mtr

-Kurt

 
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The car has an aftermarket aluminum manifold on it and I am pretty sure it is a Weiand but it is not here to confirm(may be offenhauser). Here is picture. It is from one side and you really can't see enough to really identify it. The cover plate is center bottom of the picture.

20140523_192633.jpg

20140524_193341.jpg

20140526_184802.jpg

 
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Ralph, that's a 2V Holley Street Dominator intake.

The plate shown with the allen bolts is a block off for the original style choke heat riser.

It is not part of engine vacuum in any way.

I think you'll find the dual plane Edelbrock manifold to your liking.

 
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