Here we go with the 3G Alternator upgrade. Like the starter this isn't for the concourse guys but is a significant improvement over the stock 1G Alternator and External Regulator setup. This takes a bit more work than the starter but IMO is a very worthwhile upgrade. In my 10 year experience the stock Alternator setup is unreliable at best. I have had to replace the regulator twice with less than 1k miles on the car. Pitfalls are you will lose the use of your stock ampere gauge if installed. Do not connect the stock Amp Gauge to the upgraded alternator you take a chance of burning it up which is bad and not cheap to replace.
Rocket Man Conversions(http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all) can convert you stock Amp gauge to read Volts for $30 fixing the problem which I plan to do in the future.
PA Performance also makes kits and a modified regulator for this conversion to keep the use of the stock dumby light.(http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=75)
IMO this is a perfect opportunity to get rid of the rats nest of wiring that is the original regulator setup. The Stock Amp gauge barely ever moved anyway and the dumby light is just that. When it came on its to late anyway.
What is a 3G Alternator? Our cars came with a 1G First Generation Alternator, 2G Second Generation Alternators were well known for burning Mustangs up literally. That brings us to the 3G Third Generation internally regulated Alternator. The Ford 3G Regulator is key on activated unlike a "One Wire" GM Style alternator which is activated by engine RPM creating a certain voltage level. Fortunately Ford made 2 models that are a direct bolt in to our cars. A 95 Amp and a 130 Amp Alternator. Very plentiful in scrap yards or you can get a new one like I did from DBElectrical. The 95 Amp has a smaller body than the 130 and 4 holes in between the front ribs as opposed to 2 on the 130. I used the 95 Amp because I got it cheap. Parts are below.
Ford 3G Alternator(95 Amp Part# F1SU-10300-BA, F29U-10300-AB, F69U-10300-AA) $84 Shipped
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-4024-new-ford-aerostar-alternator-30l-92-93-94.aspx
Alternator Conversion Kit(Various places sell them) $40 Shipped Ebay
I got mine on ebay using search terms 3G Alternator Conversion. You can also put the kit together yourself. Picture included to show the parts needed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231007571417?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Temp/Coil Engine Harness(I refuse to cut up my stock one) $43 Shipped
You don't have to have this but can get it from Ebay or Perogie Enterprises
You will reuse the long upper alternator bolt. But will have to get a M8 Bolt and Washer for the Lower Alternator Bolt(Lowes).
On to the installation. As always first thing is remove your positive/negative lead from the battery so nothing arcs. Remove you old alternator and the alternator wiring and regulator. You won't need any of it after the upgrade. Next I recommend an impact to remove the pulley's. You need to install the the V Belt pulley that was on the stock alternator onto the new 95 Amp alternator. Here is where a small amount of modification comes in. The 6 ribs that point outward on the alternator need to be ground down a little bit or they will contact the pulley. Grind a little at a time test fitting until you get it just right. I had about an 1/8" clearance all the way around when I used the impact to tighten the pulley nut.
Once you get the pulley installed next is on to the wiring. I installed all of my wiring to the back of the alternator prior to bolting it in for ease. I also recommend solder and heat shrink on all connections fro reliability. I have included a picture of how to wire the alternator which came with my kit. Alternator Connections are self explanatory except the trigger wire(Green/Red Stripe). That wire has to go to a switched hot wire. I chose to use a weatherpack connector and connect it to the Yellow Boot + Positive Coil wire as my switched hot. Some will say find another switched hot but I haven't noticed a problem with my Pertronix Ignition and Coil.
The Yellow Wire from the connector on the alternator runs to the same stud on the back of the alternator that the battery charging cable connects to. Optimally you want a 4 gauge or larger charging cable. This cable runs from the stud on the alternator to a fuse(150 Amp or More) to the Front Stud on the Starter Solenoid. I mounted my fuse to the firewall picture included. Once you get the wiring buttoned up. Installation of the new alternator is the same as stock reusing the long upper bolt. The lower bolt is replaced with the M8 Bolt and Flat Washer. Adjust your V-Belt Tight and reconnect your battery. Check to ensure it matches the picture and the stud on the back of the alternator isn't in contact with anything grounding out after bolting in your alternator.
If your stud is interfering or getting to close for comfort to other metal behind it. You can reclock the back of the alternator by remove the screws and turning it as far as I know. I didn't have that issue on my installation.
Lastly start the car let the idle settle down to normal slow idle. Using a multimeter check at the battery for approximately 14 Volts. Mine was 14.3 at idle.
Pictures show the simplified setup without the regulator or wiring harness. All this leaves is one unused stud on the firewall and one wire I pointed to near the starter solenoid.
If I made any mistakes in typing this up after the fact please let me know so I can correct it. Not hard to miss a step.
![IMG_8314[1].JPG](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/7173mustangs/data/attachments/13/13799-98058580fee3595b3d00fcefa5d7089a.jpg "IMG_8314[1].JPG")
Rocket Man Conversions(http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all) can convert you stock Amp gauge to read Volts for $30 fixing the problem which I plan to do in the future.
PA Performance also makes kits and a modified regulator for this conversion to keep the use of the stock dumby light.(http://www.paperformance.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=75)
IMO this is a perfect opportunity to get rid of the rats nest of wiring that is the original regulator setup. The Stock Amp gauge barely ever moved anyway and the dumby light is just that. When it came on its to late anyway.
What is a 3G Alternator? Our cars came with a 1G First Generation Alternator, 2G Second Generation Alternators were well known for burning Mustangs up literally. That brings us to the 3G Third Generation internally regulated Alternator. The Ford 3G Regulator is key on activated unlike a "One Wire" GM Style alternator which is activated by engine RPM creating a certain voltage level. Fortunately Ford made 2 models that are a direct bolt in to our cars. A 95 Amp and a 130 Amp Alternator. Very plentiful in scrap yards or you can get a new one like I did from DBElectrical. The 95 Amp has a smaller body than the 130 and 4 holes in between the front ribs as opposed to 2 on the 130. I used the 95 Amp because I got it cheap. Parts are below.
Ford 3G Alternator(95 Amp Part# F1SU-10300-BA, F29U-10300-AB, F69U-10300-AA) $84 Shipped
http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-4024-new-ford-aerostar-alternator-30l-92-93-94.aspx
Alternator Conversion Kit(Various places sell them) $40 Shipped Ebay
I got mine on ebay using search terms 3G Alternator Conversion. You can also put the kit together yourself. Picture included to show the parts needed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231007571417?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Temp/Coil Engine Harness(I refuse to cut up my stock one) $43 Shipped
You don't have to have this but can get it from Ebay or Perogie Enterprises
You will reuse the long upper alternator bolt. But will have to get a M8 Bolt and Washer for the Lower Alternator Bolt(Lowes).
On to the installation. As always first thing is remove your positive/negative lead from the battery so nothing arcs. Remove you old alternator and the alternator wiring and regulator. You won't need any of it after the upgrade. Next I recommend an impact to remove the pulley's. You need to install the the V Belt pulley that was on the stock alternator onto the new 95 Amp alternator. Here is where a small amount of modification comes in. The 6 ribs that point outward on the alternator need to be ground down a little bit or they will contact the pulley. Grind a little at a time test fitting until you get it just right. I had about an 1/8" clearance all the way around when I used the impact to tighten the pulley nut.
Once you get the pulley installed next is on to the wiring. I installed all of my wiring to the back of the alternator prior to bolting it in for ease. I also recommend solder and heat shrink on all connections fro reliability. I have included a picture of how to wire the alternator which came with my kit. Alternator Connections are self explanatory except the trigger wire(Green/Red Stripe). That wire has to go to a switched hot wire. I chose to use a weatherpack connector and connect it to the Yellow Boot + Positive Coil wire as my switched hot. Some will say find another switched hot but I haven't noticed a problem with my Pertronix Ignition and Coil.
The Yellow Wire from the connector on the alternator runs to the same stud on the back of the alternator that the battery charging cable connects to. Optimally you want a 4 gauge or larger charging cable. This cable runs from the stud on the alternator to a fuse(150 Amp or More) to the Front Stud on the Starter Solenoid. I mounted my fuse to the firewall picture included. Once you get the wiring buttoned up. Installation of the new alternator is the same as stock reusing the long upper bolt. The lower bolt is replaced with the M8 Bolt and Flat Washer. Adjust your V-Belt Tight and reconnect your battery. Check to ensure it matches the picture and the stud on the back of the alternator isn't in contact with anything grounding out after bolting in your alternator.
If your stud is interfering or getting to close for comfort to other metal behind it. You can reclock the back of the alternator by remove the screws and turning it as far as I know. I didn't have that issue on my installation.
Lastly start the car let the idle settle down to normal slow idle. Using a multimeter check at the battery for approximately 14 Volts. Mine was 14.3 at idle.
Pictures show the simplified setup without the regulator or wiring harness. All this leaves is one unused stud on the firewall and one wire I pointed to near the starter solenoid.
If I made any mistakes in typing this up after the fact please let me know so I can correct it. Not hard to miss a step.
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