Jacking Locations (73 Mustang)

[tocruise]

I'm probably kicking the bee nest here, but what is the best jacking location for the front of a 73 mustang? I cannot seem to get a concrete answer anywhere.

• Some people say to use the engine cross member (which sometimes gets confused with the radiator support), but that can apparently cause warping, twisting, alignment issues, and isn't recommended at all.
• Some people say to use the strut rod (which I presume they mean what's in the attached "Strut rod.png" picture, that goes from both wheels), but that seems incredibly thin and small to hold ~1000lbs+ of weight when the entire front end is jacked up.

So what is the correct front-end jacking up location? Ideally with an annotation on the attached "Body.png" picture, which should make it easy

Cheers
Ryan

 

[tocruise]

I've annotated possible spots on this image, if that helps at all.

 

[basstrix]

I no longer have clear access with a jack to use #1 (engine cross member), but I can't count how many times I've used it in the past without issue.

Unclear what your #2 points to, but do not jack there!

The Struts are the angled rods at the left and right end of #3. #3 Is not the radiator support, that is the Strut Rod Support. The strut rod support is very heavy and what I use most often because my floor jack access is from the side.

The radiator support is the member between the front valance and strut rod support. Never use the radiator, aka core support. 1000% guarantee you'll do major damage if radiator support is used to lift the car.

 

[rcadd1ct]

Stock Jack points are the pinch welds.
You can get a Jack adapter from LMR or make your own.

I have welded subframe connectors so mine is easy. I can lift my entire side when I jack just behind the door mirror

 

[tocruise]

I no longer have clear access with a jack to use #1 (engine cross member), but I can't count how many times I've used it in the past without issue.

Unclear what your #2 points to, but do not jack there!

The Struts are the angled rods at the left and right end of #3. #3 Is not the radiator support, that is the Strut Rod Support. The strut rod support is very heavy and what I use most often because my floor jack access is from the side.

The radiator support is the member between the front valance and strut rod support. Never use the radiator, aka core support. 1000% guarantee you'll do major damage if radiator support is used to lift the car.

Thanks mate. Lots of usefull information here, I'm still learning so my terms aren't up to scratch. I think the problem is a lot of people incorrectly refer to parts too so it gets confusing. I was just reading a similar thread on the same topic and there were at least 5 long-term members that thought the strut support was the engine cross memeber

You're right though. 1) Is the engine support/crossmember, 2) Is a the front sway bar, and 3) is the strut support crossmember

 

[tocruise]

Stock Jack points are the pinch welds.
You can get a Jack adapter from LMR or make your own.

I have welded subframe connectors so mine is easy. I can lift my entire side when I jack just behind the door mirror

Always appreicate pictures. I'll look into getting one of those jack adapters too. Thanks a lot.

 

[Hemikiller]

Been using #1 and #3 for 35 years, just depends on what I'm doing.

The strut.png is the steering linkage, do not jack up there. Whoever told you to use that is someone to ignore.
#2 is the front sway bar, really don't want to jack up on that.

 

[tocruise]

Been using #1 and #3 for 35 years, just depends on what I'm doing.

The strut.png is the steering linkage, do not jack up there. Whoever told you to use that is someone to ignore.
#2 is the front sway bar, really don't want to jack up on that.

Thanks. I'm trying to jack up the front to swap both tires. On about a 7 degree incline though, front end facing down hill. Thoughts?

 

[rcadd1ct]

Thanks. I'm trying to jack up the front to swap both tires. On about a 7 degree incline though, front end facing down hill. Thoughts?

Make sure you block the front tires as once you reduce the friction of the rear wheels it will want to go down hill.

 

[72conv]

If I had to swap both front tires, especially if the car must be on an incline, I'd do them one side at a time.

1. Put the transmission in Park. (or Reverse if it's a manual)
2. Engage the emergency brake.
3. Insert good quality wheel chocks in front of and behind both rear wheels. I have four nice rubber chocks that I bought from Harbor Freight for about $8.00 each and they have served me well.
4. Break the lug nuts loose on both front wheels.
5. Put the jack under the lower control arm, as close to the wheel as possible, and raise the car.
6. Insert a jackstand under the control arm and let the jack down so that the weight of the car rests on the jackstand.
7. Change that tire.
8. Jack the car up enough to remove the jackstand, then remove it.
9. Lower the jack.
10. Torque the lug nuts.
11. Repeat steps 5 through 10 for the other side.
12. Done.

If you can move the car to some place that is flat and level, that would be preferable over having to work on an incline.

 

[tony-muscle]

+1 on one at a time. It just takes a few more minutes.