kill switch

[Tucaz520]

ok someone with more electrical brains than me check my work PLEASE!!!!!

I bought a remote operated relay instead of the bluetooth controlled one but this is how i tested my theory.

1. Ran 12 volts to the device and a green led came on.

2. Tested for continuity between the 3 remaining terminals on the device. I picked the 2 that did not have continuity.

3. pressed the button on the remote and gained continuity. (using a mulitmeeter to test)

4. disconnected the pos wire from the battery to make sure there was no continuity when the ignition is off.

5. reconnected 12v to make sure continuity was not restored which it wasnt

6. pressed the button on the remote and continuity was restored.

This was to simulate the car being parked and turned off and no continuity to either the dist or the ign switch.

In my uneducated test above it worked as desired. This is basically just a modern spin on a toggle kill switch, the benefit is that the device can be buried so deep that it cant be found. Simply push the button on the key fob and continuity is restored without reaching for a hidden switch.

now what im worried about.

The device is a small circuit board with micro relay on it. the relay is rated at 12v 10 amp.

If i use this on the dist wire will that handle the current the whole time the car is running?

If i use it on the ignition switch will 10 amp be enough? im assuming the draw while cranking is higher than 10 amps.

 

[tony-muscle]

ok someone with more electrical brains than me check my work PLEASE!!!!!

I bought  a remote operated relay instead of the bluetooth controlled one but this is how i tested my theory.

1. Ran 12 volts to the device and a green led came on.

2. Tested for continuity between the 3 remaining terminals on the device.  I picked the 2 that did not have continuity.

3. pressed the button on the remote and gained continuity.  (using a mulitmeeter  to test)

4. disconnected the pos wire from the battery to make sure there was no continuity when the ignition is off.

5. reconnected 12v to make sure continuity was not restored which it wasnt

6. pressed the button on the remote and continuity was restored.

This was to simulate the car being parked and turned off and no continuity to either the dist or the ign switch.

In my uneducated test above  it worked as desired.  This is basically just a modern spin on a toggle kill switch, the benefit is that the device can be buried so deep that it cant be found.  Simply push the button on the key fob and continuity is restored without reaching for a hidden switch. 

now what im worried about.

The device is a small circuit board with  micro relay on it.  the relay is rated at 12v 10 amp. 

If i use this on the dist wire will that handle the current the whole time the car is running?

If i use it on the ignition switch will 10 amp be enough? im assuming the draw while cranking is higher than 10 amps. 

If you use it for ignition, just connect the negative side of the coil to ground through the relay. However, you will want to connect the relay in normally off mode so when you press the remote it will be on. In that way you don't get current through it while the car is running.

 

[Don C]

The coil uses between 5 and 6 amps, so using it in the coil wire should be OK, if the rating is accurate.

It will not work in the wire to the ignition switch, that wire not only provides current to the coil but to all accessories that only function when the key is on, like heater, radio, turn signals, etc., and would overload the relay.