LED LIGHT BULBS

[NOT A T5]

Will LED Light Bulbs work for everything dash related, like glove box light, switch illumination etc. not just gauges?

 

[red351]

Wherever they fit.

 

[nailpounder]

i switched to led headlights love them

 

[brad1979]

I found some of the original sockets (glove box and switch lights?? if I recall) were reverse polarity, the pin was ground and the housing was positive. I took the LED bulbs and melted the metal on the pin with a soldering iron to separate the plastic LED from the metal bulb housing, switched the wires and re-soldered the bulb assembly. Not too difficult but took a bit of time and trial. These were the cheapest LED bulbs from ebay, not sure if you could do it to a better quality bulb.

 

[Don C]

Everything except the alternator warning light, even though it has a resistor bypassing the bulb the alternator may not get enough voltage to excite it. I haven't heard of anyone trying it, so don't know for sure.

 

[midlife]

Everything except the alternator warning light, even though it has a resistor bypassing the bulb the alternator may not get enough voltage to excite it.  I haven't heard of anyone trying it, so don't know for sure.

Don C is right once again!  He's the Midlife-Clone! lollerz

 

[rackerm]

Will LED Light Bulbs work for everything dash related, like glove box light, switch illumination etc. not just gauges?

If you search on LED you will find posts on the topic that should help you. Also you can buy non-polerized LED bulbs to eliminate the polarity issue. Also if you change your directional bulbs to LED you will need to change both of your flasher relays. Check out this site.

https://www.hipoparts.com/led-bulbs-gauge-light-kits/

 

[NOT A T5]

Thank you guys for all the replies!

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

Although I purchased the HiPo Parts Elite series for my dash, I got an LED turn signal switch - that clicks - from Mustang Project. They also sell the kits for the dash.

http://www.mustangproject.com/

 

[Stanglover]

They do have some pretty neat stuff on the Mustang Project website, but for what we need for our cars, unless it's a complete resto-mod, upgrading everything type deal, my money would go to Bill at Hi-Po Parts. His quality and experience are unequaled from my personal experience. If there are questions, he will answer them personally. My advice (and just my opinion) is ask first, buy later. Don't waste money and time on cheap E-Pay junk where you can't really trust what the seller is saying.

In my case and as I've mentioned before, my car had a unique issue with the flasher socket being wired backward. Not an issue with a standard electronic flasher, but definitely a problem with the required grounded LED flasher. Bill "fixed" the problem by helping me make up a jumper connector. Job done. All my bulbs are now LED or more correctly SMD (except headlights). For the dash bulbs I'd recommend the Hi-Po Elite series II. IF your blue domes are still good, the factory white looks awesome. Colors are offered as well if you prefer.

Hope that helps,

Geoff.

 

[EBSTANG]

I found some of the original sockets (glove box and switch lights?? if I recall) were reverse polarity, the pin was ground and the housing was positive. I took the LED bulbs and melted the metal on the pin with a soldering iron to separate the plastic LED from the metal bulb housing, switched the wires and re-soldered the bulb assembly. Not too difficult but took a bit of time and trial. These were the cheapest LED bulbs from ebay, not sure if you could do it to a better quality bulb.

You could have, as an alternative, cut the two wires to the socket and reversed them. If you soldered them and shrink wrapped them there would be nothing wrong with that. If, at some point, you wanted to go back to incandescent s (who would?) they would still work as they are not polarity dependent.

 

[Stanglover]

I found some of the original sockets (glove box and switch lights?? if I recall) were reverse polarity, the pin was ground and the housing was positive. I took the LED bulbs and melted the metal on the pin with a soldering iron to separate the plastic LED from the metal bulb housing, switched the wires and re-soldered the bulb assembly. Not too difficult but took a bit of time and trial. These were the cheapest LED bulbs from ebay, not sure if you could do it to a better quality bulb.

You could have, as an alternative, cut the two wires to the socket and reversed them. If you soldered them and shrink wrapped them there would be nothing wrong with that. If, at some point, you wanted to go back to incandescent s (who would?) they would still work as they are not polarity dependent.

Or, as I'm planning on doing later today, use a small probe and pop the contacts out of the socket and reverse them.... in my case, put them where they should have been in the first place.