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Animal Lawyer

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I finally got a redone set of D0AE-N CC heads with rocker studs and guide plates. I am swapping them onto the ’73 Q code. I already have a 1970 intake manifold, duraspark and a Street Avenger 680.

I am not planning on changing pistons (at least not yet) as I want to run pump gas and the increase in compression from oc to cc heads should be enough.

I am considering getting the blue thunder intake (though I hate aluminum the hp increase is supposed to be quite impressive)

I will change to a double roller timing chain – open to suggestions as to brand, to get back the 4 degrees they took in ’73.and a new water pump (because while you’re at it….) (which makes me wonder whether to simply pop the engine out change the oil pump and pan gasket (and while I’m at it the clutch (because there is always something else to replace…)

I am undecided whether to change cams and if so what specs? It’s a vert, so I don’t have the option of track days, and as a driver I need good low end torque. I am open to opinions and suggestions. Similarly, as to rocker arms, lifters and pushrods (I have been reading about oil restrictors, but must admit I have no real knowledge and would welcome any input.

And then, just when I think the fun is over, it’s in to the body shop to repair the few areas of rust, realign the seams and repaint/redecal and renew the interior (ca-ching!) A few more months of covid isolation and I’ll be ready for bankruptcy!

 

droptop73

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I am running the Comp 268H cam and like it for drivability and a slightly choppy idle. IMO there is no need to alter the oiling system unless you are going to run at 5000 RPM plus for extended periods. If you are going to change rockers from stock you will need to machine the heads for screw in studs and guide plates. If you are just cruising in the car it may not be worth the expense. Ford designed these engines to go 100k plus miles. Most of what is read on internet forums is about all out racing modifications and not necessary for a mostly street driven piece. Again, how fast do you want to go bankrupt? 

The Ford Racing indexable roller timing set is a very nice part to use but you really need to degree the cam and not trust the marks. You know machining tolerance and such. If you're going that deep, I would pull the engine as it makes everything much more accessible.  If I were buying rockers again, I'd look at the stainless roller rockers vs the aluminum ones for durability. 

 
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Hemikiller

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Timing set - Rollmaster with the Iwis chain and thrust bearing, end of story.   You can spend just as much and get a worse product.  I'm running this timing set and their damper on my 351C. Also, check your cam retainer for wear, all of the engines I've built had a bunch of wear on the plate. 

https://www.tmeyerinc.com/product/adjustable-billet-timing-set-cleveland/

For a street driven cruiser, the only oil mod I'd do is a set of restrictors to the five cam bearings, or TMeyer's restrictor cam bearings. I'm using the full Moroso restrictor kit in my new build, but it's a solid flat tappet engine. 

I'm torn on the cam, but I'd be inclined to replace it. My thought is you're going to change the dynamics of the valvetrain with the new heads, and since it's nearly 50 years old, it's time. You'll want something with a wide LSA (lobe separation angle) in the 114° range to keep the vacuum up. I'd call Cam Research and have them spec a cam for you. Be sure that the springs match the cam specs. If you have original Ford valves in those heads, throw them in the nearest dumpster and get a set of one piece from TMeyer or Ferrea. 

 

c9zx

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+1 on the Iwis timing chain and replacing the stock valves. I would talk to Brent Lykins for a quasi-custom cam and valve train suggestions. https://lykinsmotorsports.com  Chuck

 

Animal Lawyer

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If you are going to change rockers from stock you will need to machine the heads for screw in studs and guide plates.
The heads I got (I am told) were recently rebuilt (3 angle valve job, stainless 1 piece valves and hyd roller springs) they are already machined and came with studs and Ford guide plates installed, so new rockers are a necessity, I simply was seeking advice of what type to go with. The car will be strictly street (and pretty much a daily driver). I'm past any real racing (though occasional street drags to the next light are still fun). I am just so out of the loop on what to do to maximize fun without breaking the bank that I felt I needed to ask

 

droptop73

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I get it... I try to make any recommendations based on what the intended use is. I missed the info on the heads. Making recommendations based on parameters the car will never see just wastes resources that can be better used elsewhere. 

Full disclosure, I am very much susceptible to the "While I'm at it's". My current project scope is well beyond what was planned when I got into it last fall. 

 

Animal Lawyer

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I am very much susceptible to the "While I'm at it's". My current project scope is well beyond what was planned when I got into it last fall.
That is my biggest fear. This started with just change the heads. BUT, if I do that I NEED to do the timing chain to get back the 4 degrees, and once I have the engine that far torn down it is crazy not to do the cam, at which point, it is easier to just pull the engine (so I HAVE to drop the pan (to better seal the timing cover and to check the bearings) and might as well freshen up the engine bay and replace the clutch (hell, it's apart already) and and and ....

(Not to mention replacing the steering box for the shelby close ratio (I mean, with the engine out it's easily accessible) and maybe redo the front suspension, just for good measure)

I think I could do very well starting a new 12 step program to deal with this addiction

 

detritusmaximus

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1971 Sportsroof M-code #3 needs money
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I do believe you left out 'paint the engine bay'.....

 

Horsin' Around

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My "while I'm there" costs always seem to exceed my "getting there" costs. Kind of like going to Vegas!

 

midlife

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WhileI'mAtItItis should include a complete overhaul of the wiring...just sayin'... :biggrin:

 

Animal Lawyer

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WhileI'mAtItItis should include a complete overhaul of the wiring...j
I've been debating ordering a replacement harness from you for a few months. While mine is in relatively good shape (I've only found 1  or 2 cut/spliced wires I cannot identify) but it is almost 50 years old....

 
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