lifting car and suspension damage

[SteveO_71]

I received a Mustang 360 newsletter recently that had the following article in it regarding raising a classic mustang with a 2 post lift and that it may cause suspension damage.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/1612-lift-classic-mustangs-and-avoid-suspension-damage/

Also mentions a ford tool that was created to avoid said damage, which doesnt exist anymore.

Is anyone aware of this and is it something to be concerned with when raising our cars ?

Is there a way to avoid the damage besides using a suspension holding tool like the one mentioned in the article?

Thanks

 

[Don C]

Interesting, some of our members have reported having this problem. I haven't experienced it yet.

I'll bet Perkins will sell you his home made tool for $500.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I remember seeing something about that as well... I think through Mustang Monthly.

Interesting.

Anybody know anything about this "special tool?" I'm leery about the term '[manufacturer] Special Tool' because my Grandma had a really nice '64 Lincoln Continental that needed maintenance, and basically just sat in her carport for the last 20 years of her life (before it was hauled away by someone wanting a project) because it needed a "Ford Special Tool" that nobody seemed to have or know where to get one from. Turns out, the "Ford Special Tool" required was simply a distributor wrench - she had taken the mechanic at his word when he attempted to squeeze out more money for a simply tune-up. Stories like that are the reason I learned how to work on my own stuff and get over my inhibitions regarding 'tough' jobs.

I would think as long as you put the pads under a suitable jacking point under the chassis (torque boxes, for example) there shouldn't be any issues.

 

[Mister 4x4]

OK - I wrote that last post without actually having read the article. :shootself:

My '71 lived on a drive-on lift the entire time it was being restored... sometimes jacked-up off the drive-on platforms on center/slider jacks - usually under the rear axle, torque boxes, or later under the sub frame connectors near the rear torque boxes.

I haven't noticed any suspension issues. Must just be after the rubber bushings have past their 'end-of-prime-of-life' window. The biggest 'weight' of the suspension stress is the wheels hanging out there on the end of the spindles. Take the wheels off once the car's in the air, and it will alleviate something like 40lbs+ on each side (depending on what kind of rim/tire combination you might have)

You think Bob Perkins would really let his tool go for $500? :whistling:

 

[red351]

Well one thing I notice is a lot of today's said to fit shocks are shorter when fully extended. That put more down load on the shock bushings when hanging. There is a simple fix that. That tool isn't the answer.

 

[eddyw]

YES, i believe this article...

I have a 2 post lift and the rubbers above on the shocks are damaged... just by the weight of the suspension and wheel from the ground.

:shootself:

 

[tony-muscle]

Has anyone measured the shock length needed to allow the suspension to fully travel when lifted? If the shock is long enough then it will allow the suspension to bottom out and it wont put any stress in the bushing. Is this possible to achieve?

1971 M-code Mach 1

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

I'm pretty sure as memory serves, the Factory manual covers that tool and describes how to make one. I recall it was considered essential for working on the front end components such as ball joints, lower control arms and the LCA cam bolt.

 

[Pastel Blue]

I'm pretty sure as memory serves, the Factory manual covers that tool and describes how to make one. I recall it was considered essential for working on the front end components such as ball joints, lower control arms and the LCA cam bolt.

+1 ^^^

 

[Don C]

I can see 2 problems with trying a longer shock so that the weight of the suspension doesn't hang on the shock bushings.

1, with a longer shock the suspension may bottom out on the shock instead of the snubber block.

2, having the suspension hang down lower will place more stress on the strut rod bushings and threaded end on the strut rod.

 

[tony-muscle]

I can see 2 problems with trying a longer shock so that the weight of the suspension doesn't hang on the shock bushings.

1, with a longer shock the suspension may bottom out on the shock instead of the snubber block.

2, having the suspension hang down lower will place more stress on the strut rod bushings and threaded end on the strut rod.

I see what you are saying. I am trying to figure out a way to avoid this recurring problem. When you lift the car I think the suspension would bottom out (without the shocks) when the UCA contacts the frame, right? I would have to look at the suspension, but maybe one could design a rubber stop that will contact just before the shock is fully extended. I am just thinking out loud and brainstorming.

1971 M-code Mach 1

 

[Don C]

This has always been a problem, especially with off road vehicles, which is why a lot of them use limiting straps to prevent over extension and breaking shocks and shock mounts. I don't know how the Dukes of Hazzard handled the problem

 

[Boss1Ray]

The pic in the article shows the original tool on right and then a couple Bob Perkins made.

I am no machinist nor a fabricator but they don't look too tough to make.



Ray

 

[Pastel Blue]

I have been aware of this possibility for close to forty years now. In the meantime I have always put my Mustangs on jack stands for 5 months every winter, with the suspension hanging... I've done all my work on the front end with the suspension hanging. I have never had a problem.

I gave consideration to the geometry of these suspensions years ago when it comes to leaving the suspension hanging and as I see it, as long as you don't abuse it, you should be fine. There is little doubt that as bushings such as those on shock absorbers age, they are more susceptible to the additional strain put on them when the suspension is not supported on its wheels.

It makes sense to use a tool such as shown here, PIA mind you, but at this time, I have no intention of doing so. We'll see how my vert makes out when it is done.

 

[SteveO_71]

Is the suspension that exists in the Mustang some unique configuration or something? Wouldnt this same issue happen with putting any car ( or just older cars?) on a two post lift?

Perkins happens to writing about Ford restoration since thats the business he is in. What if I had a classic camaro or dodge? Granted those are not in the same league as the Mustang so I use 'classic' loosely.