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No, the block may have been cast a month or more before it was installed in your car. After the block was cast it had to be machined and then everything installed on, and in, it. The heads and everything else that has a date code is the same way.

 
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Awesome thanks again Don.

I was searching the different car sites looking for a correct Hurst shift handle for the 4 speed toploader. As many of you know the usual knob comes up which looks correct but the 4 on it is a closed 4 instead of the correct open 4. Now I found an open 4 reproduction handle on this site, but it is listed for a 1969-71 Pontiac. It looks the exact same as the one I need. Do you guys think it is the right one? Not sure if its the lock-nut. https://www.pricefalls.com/product/1969-1971-pontiac-hurst-t-shifter-handle-for-open-4/284078321?source=Bing&medium=cpc&term=&content=PLA&campaign=278176230&ad=75728898528288

For those of us who've been looking for the "open 4", this might be an interesting find if someone can confirm it to be correct for 1971 Mustangs...

 
Does anyone out there make a drivers side dash trim? Mine is in terrible condition from whoever the P/O had try to "restore" it

 
icejawa,

This concerns your questions about the dates on all the engine components. Don C is correct on the time it takes to assemble a complete engine assembly. The 351C was Fords new baby and was being installed in a lot of vehicles. So engine components were being cast in great numbers and resulted in a large range of date codes. My 7-28-71 built Mach1 had a 1D29 (April 29, 1971) intake that evidently floated around for three months before it found my engine.

The Hurst site doesn't show they are manufacturing the open "4" T handle. I was told that Hurst only makes them now with the closed 4 on the handle, and anyone selling a brand new "open 4" handle (unless a Ford NOS unit) is selling an unauthorized counterfeit. Just though I'd let you know up front since it may not be a genuine Hurst product.  But since you would be buying for you own personal use and not for resell at the local flea market it may be what you need. The Ford T handle (D1OZ-7213-A)  I believe is thread size  3/8"-16. I was going to check the size on a NOS handle I bought for a 4sp M code that was in my fleet at time time, But you know the name of that tune. I put it up so i could easily find it later...who knows where in the &)#@{& where it is now! I paid a whopping $18.11 and now they go for $500.00!

If we are talking about the same thing, the left side dash trim is something Don @ Ohio Mustang Supply sells. Get your credit/debit card out and give him a call!  

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=2395

 
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icejawa,

This concerns your questions about the dates on all the engine components. Don C is correct on the time it takes to assemble a complete engine assembly. The 351C was Fords new baby and was being installed in a lot of vehicles. So engine components were being cast in great numbers and resulted in a large range of date codes. My 7-28-71 built Mach1 had a 1D29 (April 28, 71) intake that evidently floated around for three months before it found my engine.

The Hurst site doesn't show they are manufacturing the open "4" T handle. I was told that Hurst only makes them now with the closed 4 on the handle, and anyone selling a brand new "open 4" handle (unless a Ford NOS unit) is selling an unauthorized counterfeit. Just though I'd let you know up front since it may not be a genuine Hurst product.  But since you would be buying for you own personal use and not for resell at the local flea market it may be what you need. The Ford T handle (D1OZ-7213-A)  I believe is thread size  3/8"-16. I was going to check the size on a NOS handle I bought for a 4sp M code that was in my fleet at time time, But you know the name of that tune. I put it up so i could easily find it later...who knows where in the &)#@{& where it is now! I paid a whopping $18.11 and now they go for $500.00!

If we are talking about the same thing, the left side dash trim is something Don @ Ohio Mustang Supply sells. Get your credit/debit card out and give him a call!  

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=2395
Lol wish I could be lucky enough to find a genuine correct T handle like you. I'll order that trim panel right now, thanks alot! I've sadly got the bug for correctness since I'm repairing an middle aged restoration, I may as well do it right. The panel in there right now is all sorts of oddly painted.

 
Any thoughts on the "Deluxe Rim Blow Steering Wheel"? I'd prefer to find one that is a genuine Ford unit, which I could restore. Unless there is a "concours" reproduction for 1971. I've heard people say they're junk and honk when you turn or back up, but sadly my car was ordered with one. :D

 
Is the wheel still on your car or if not do you still have it? If not in really bad shape they can be restored. I'm sure there are others that perform the same service, but Rim Blow Buddy is a company that seems to have a quality product. I believe they offer a restoration service, repair parts and restored wheels. http://www.therimblowbuddy.com/our-store/536/

I have seen the 3 spoke on E-Bay at times with prices up to $2,500.00! These wheels were sourced from the full size Ford and were also installed in Torinos, Mustangs, T-Birds and sister Mercury vehicles. So there were plenty of them out there, but were probably left in the car when the vehicle was scrapped.  They are a  great looking wheel and really dressed the interior up, but a lot of people hated them because of not being able to get used to the horn switch in the rim! (Try speed shifting a big block car with a 3 spoke and manual steering)!    

I know 40+ years later it comes down to supply and demand. But when I see a wheel that was a $39.00 option on the 71's and sold over the counter for $135.00, it makes me cringe a little when I see them approach the 2-3K price range.

Hopefully this info will help you decide how much more you want to torture you credit/debit cards!   :D

 
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Is the wheel still on your car or if not do you still have it? If not in really bad shape they can be restored. I'm sure there are others that perform the same service, but Rim Blow Buddy is a company that seams to have a quality product. I believe they offer a restoration service, repair parts and restored wheels. http://www.therimblowbuddy.com/our-store/536/

I have seen the 3 spoke on E-Bay at times with prices up to $2,500.00! These wheels were sourced from the full size Ford and were also installed in Torinos, Mustangs, T-Birds and sister Mercury vehicles. So there were plenty of them out there, but were probably left in the car when the vehicle was scrapped.  They are a  great looking wheel and really dressed the interior up, but a lot of people hated them because of not being able to get used to the horn switch in the rim! (Try speed shifting a big block car with a 3 spoke and manual steering)!    

I know 40+ years later it comes down to supply and demand. But when I see a wheel that was a $39.00 option on the 71's and sold over the counter for $135.00, it makes me cringe a little when I see them approach the 2-3K price range.

Hopefully this info will help you decide how much more you want to torture you credit/debit cards!   :D
Maybe there will be a reproduction version soon ...

 
I've got some new pedal pads to put on, I'm guessing I use an adhesive in addition to the bendable clips?

 
Is the wheel still on your car or if not do you still have it? If not in really bad shape they can be restored. I'm sure there are others that perform the same service, but Rim Blow Buddy is a company that seams to have a quality product. I believe they offer a restoration service, repair parts and restored wheels. http://www.therimblowbuddy.com/our-store/536/

I have seen the 3 spoke on E-Bay at times with prices up to $2,500.00! These wheels were sourced from the full size Ford and were also installed in Torinos, Mustangs, T-Birds and sister Mercury vehicles. So there were plenty of them out there, but were probably left in the car when the vehicle was scrapped.  They are a  great looking wheel and really dressed the interior up, but a lot of people hated them because of not being able to get used to the horn switch in the rim! (Try speed shifting a big block car with a 3 spoke and manual steering)!    

I know 40+ years later it comes down to supply and demand. But when I see a wheel that was a $39.00 option on the 71's and sold over the counter for $135.00, it makes me cringe a little when I see them approach the 2-3K price range.

Hopefully this info will help you decide how much more you want to torture you credit/debit cards!   :D
Maybe there will be a reproduction version soon ...
All I can say is stay tuned folks. Don is our Ace in the Hole. He is involved in a lot of behind the scenes work with the vendors and repo people trying to get parts manufactured for our cars that actually fit. He knows very well what we go through trying to find anything for our 71-73's that fits and is not priced more than what the car cost new!

Thanks Don for being a site member/Vendor/Supporter!

 
Maybe I'll hold off on even looking for now then :D

 
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I would hold off for a while. Meanwhile there are other things we need to find for you to smoke your credit/debit card on!

As far as the pedal trim, the only one I had trouble with was the accelerator pedal. The gas pedal was plastic and would flex to the point the trim would pop off and eventually the tabs would break . I drag raced my Mach1 pretty hard which meant there was always a size 13 foot planting the pedal down to the point the pedals were breaking. Unfortunately for me I liked the look of the pedal trim, so I ended up buying a lot of the pedals and trim!  Do you have the accelerator pedal trim? I don't believe they are being reproduced but the others are available.

The 71-73 Grande and Mach1 Sport Interior optioned Mustangs and 71-73 Cougar vert and XR-7 came with the trim on all pedals. There was a Decor option on the Cougar that included several upgraded exterior and interior items along with the pedal trim on all the pedals. This will give you some sources for a used one if yours is missing. I believe the last time we checked with Don @ OMS and Mike @ Motor City Mustang they were out.

You could try some adhesive on the trim where the pedal fits underneath it and it could possibly hold it in place. Especially if you drive sensibility and not like someone trying to destroy their car every time they drove it!     :whistling:

 
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I would hold off for a while. Meanwhile there are other things we need to find for you to smoke your credit/debit card on!

As far as the pedal trim, the only one I had trouble with was the accelerator pedal. The gas pedal was plastic and would flex to the point the trim would pop off and eventually the tabs would break . I drag raced my Mach1 pretty hard which meant there was always a size 13 foot planting the pedal down to the point the pedals were breaking. Unfortunately for me I liked the look of the pedal trim, so I ended up buying a lot of the pedals and trim!  Do you have the accelerator pedal trim? I don't believe they are being reproduced but the others are available.

The 71-73 Grandé and Mach1 Sport Interior optioned Mustangs and 71-73 Cougar vert and XR-7 came with the trim on all pedals. There was a Decor option on the Cougar that included several upgraded exterior and interior items along with the pedal trim on all the pedals. This will give you some sources for a used one if yours is missing. I believe the last time we checked with Don @ OMS and Mike @ Motor City Mustang they were out.

You could try some adhesive on the trim where the pedal fits underneath it and it could possibly hold it in place. Especially if you drive sensibility and not not like someone trying to destroy their car every time they drove it!     :whistling:
I actually can't find the accelerator pedal trim. So far that and an original/repro non RAM air cleaner are what I've been looking for. The car is going to be very presentable as far as a show car after I find those. Then it's just a matter of time before I get the bug again and go for restoring the car even closer to how it came off the assembly line. Hopefully by that time there is a plentiful of rim blow wheels being reproduced.

 
Anyone know what would cause the "in dash" clock to stop working (the one where a tachometer would be)? I've got a new printed circuit in there and the wiring is all good. Also what is the plastic sleeve called that covers the lower steering column? Mine is a fixed column. I circled for reference in the stock picture below. If anyone has one or knows where to get one I'll buy it



 
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WOW I did not know the rim blow was that expensive. I think there are three in a container here somewhere, lol.

I do not think you need to glue your pedal pads on nor the trim. When my car came I did not let the do the dealer prep. When I was cleaning I found an extra pedal trim under the drivers seat. 

The plastic sleeve on the column has a metal piece that slides over two tabs on the sleeve. Make sure your replacement has the metal piece.

 
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Oh ok, I couldn't find one because I didn't know the proper name :D Guess I'll see if I can get mine out of the car first

 
icejawa, your clock is doing what clocks from that era do best.....Not Work! No matter if a top of the line Lincoln or Caddy or a basic Pinto, they seemed to last about a year and then "Show's Over"!  I would contact Rocketman https://www.rccinnovations.com/ and see which level clock repair would suit you. He is a forum member, site supporter and vendor and has worked wonders for our broken and tired cars.

The steering column shroud/collar is the same for tilt/non tilt applications on 71-73 Mustang and Cougars. Ford part# for the collar is D1ZZ-3530-A (ID# D1ZA-AWC, BA, CA) and was replaced by D3ZZ-3530-A (ID# D3ZA-BA). I would first check with Don @ Ohio Mustang Supply or Mike @ Motor City Mustang. You can find them new and used on E-Bay but most of them don't include the (D1AZ-3D695-A) retainer. The retainer was also used on 70/ Full size Ford, Torino/Fairlane, Maverick and T-Bird.

Now....time to get that card back out!

 
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So I got my mach mini console in the mail from WCCC today. Of course it just had to be the one with 2 screw holes drilled into the side. Is there a way to fill those up or did I get ripped off? Also I may be missing a radio mount bracket, not sure if the radio just sits in there with the knobs holding it in place

 
So I got my mach mini console in the mail from WCCC today. Of course it just had to be the one with 2 screw holes drilled into the side. Is there a way to fill those up or did I get ripped off? Also I may be missing a radio mount bracket, not sure if the radio just sits in there with the knobs holding it in place
I have radio brackets - do you need the large or small

Radio's need a support in the back or they bounce / move around on the shafts

The 60.00 mini console has holes in the side of it ???

I probably have some of them too

 
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