motor essentials

[Omie01]

I'm about to put my motor back together, and just wanted to pick a few brains on what things I should use. Best motor oil? Oil filter? Thermostat? There is a Mr. Gasket 180 degree thermostat at local ap store, anybody use one of these? Any suggestions on tranny fluid? My girlfriend says use F type for FMX? Can I use F type in power steering pump? Best belts? All input welcome!! Thanks!

 

[will e]

If it is a 351C you need to get the right thermostat. You want one with a 'hat' that blocks off the bypass when open. Do a search on this site for more info.

For oil I would stick with something that has a high zinc content. There are a few choices there as well. Search zinc or zddp.

Type F will work in the power steering pump. That's what I use. I don't have an opinion on belts.

I hope this helps.

 

[Omie01]

Sorry, yes, it is a cleveland! Yes that helps!! I can't find a thermostat though!!! and I picked up the motorcraft FL1-A oil filters, are these good for clevo's?

 

[mrmach1]

I always use a motorcraft FL1-A on my 351C and I'm a big fan of Valvoline 10w40. Just go to your local NAPA store and buy a Thermostat.

 

[jpaz]

Make sure to get a zinc additive for your oil, especially if you a running a flat tappet cam.

 

[c9zx]

The 335 family of engines requires a unique thermostat for the cooling system to function as designed. Robert Shaw part number 333-180 or 333-192. Evidently, no place has any. I heard an Australian company makes a correct part, Dayco DT66A. I have also heard the American or early 351C housing may not fit the DT66A. I've also heard that Australian and American later housings (perhaps 351M/400M) have a step in the housing allowing everything to fit. I found a source on !#@$ ebay, $58.00!!!!! Sorry about all the speculation but it is all I could find. What I do know for sure is, the engine will run warmer than it should with the wrong thermostat. An alternative is plugging the bypass circuit, under the thermostat or in the pump housing, and using a regular thermostat.

For a new build oil I use Joe Gibbs break in oil. After that I switch to synthetic, Amsoil Z Rod 10w30. I'm sure other will work as well. Filters, I use Wix or Wix Racing. Belts, Gates or Goodyear.

Good Luck, Chuck

 

[jbojo]

I used the Joe Gibbs break in oil and the Valvoline VR 10-30 wt since it has high ZDDP content. I am contemplating Royal Purple after I have about 5000 miles on it. For oil filter I use Wix and I know that the Mr Gasket thermostat is the wrong one.

 

[Omie01]

Thanks for the info guys, Can I get the break in oil at a local aps? Or online order?

 

[jbojo]

Thanks for the info guys, Can I get the break in oil at a local aps? Or online order?

Break in oil I got from Summit, the high ZDP Valvoline oil from O'reily's.

 

[Mesozoic]

Thanks for the info guys, Can I get the break in oil at a local aps? Or online order?

Break in oil I got from Summit, the high ZDP Valvoline oil from O'reily's.

Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs, Valvoline all-climate, all good choices, but I always break my V8s in using Shell Rotella 15W-40 diesel engine oil. For filtration duty I utilize Purolator Pure-One or Wix filters.

Once broken in, I generally switch to either Redline synthetic or Valvoline Synpower (street duty) engine oil and stick with Purolator's synthetic filter media.

 

[73vertproject]

I used about 7 quarts of Royal Purple during the break-in stage, with great results except to my wallet (RP is about $8 a quart around here). Would have been only 5 quarts but after the rebuild, I neglected to notice that the drain bolt for the oil pan had not been screwed in, so a couple quarts of pristine RP spread out on the garage floor before I noticed it. :angel:

 

[Mesozoic]

I used about 7 quarts of Royal Purple during the break-in stage, with great results except to my wallet (RP is about $8 a quart around here). Would have been only 5 quarts but after the rebuild, I neglected to notice that the drain bolt for the oil pan had not been screwed in, so a couple quarts of pristine RP spread out on the garage floor before I noticed it. :angel:

I'm assuming you're talking about their break-in specific oil, not their regular synthetic stuff.

 

[Omie01]

Sounds like you are all running synthetics after break in, I have mostly used high mileage synthetic blends in my other vehicles, is there a reason for switching to full synthetic? Do the old blocks do better with it, or is it more for the aftermarket parts we use internally. May sound naive, but have always been kind of a believer in conventionals. What about the myth of motors getting "addicted" to synthetics? I.E. cylinder hot spots and such........

 

[c9zx]

Sounds like you are all running synthetics after break in, I have mostly used high mileage synthetic blends in my other vehicles, is there a reason for switching to full synthetic? Do the old blocks do better with it, or is it more for the aftermarket parts we use internally. May sound naive, but have always been kind of a believer in conventionals. What about the myth of motors getting "addicted" to synthetics? I.E. cylinder hot spots and such........

Here is a link to the very short version of "why synthetics?".

http://autos.jdpower.com/content/consumer-interest/HKHBYmL/synthetic-motor-oils.htm

Chuck

 

[Omie01]

Useful info, thanks!!! I do believe I will run synthetics in mine as I do plan on revving up a bit!!!