Spechti
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2011
- Messages
- 180
- Reaction score
- 5
- Location
- Hamburg, Germany
- My Car
- 1971 Mustang Mach 1 (under restoration), 1973 Lincoln Mark IV (show boat)
Hi everyone!
This is a topic I already posted in Motor-Talk last year, but I think it might be of interest for others, too.
When I bought my Mach1 resto car, there were tires on the car which were old and worn and they came in sizes which could never be driven on german roads legally. At least they were far from original.
I decided to five the car the most classic factory rims, Magnum 500 reproductions from Wheel Vintiques in the largest factory size 15x7 and the largest factory optional tires. Since I did not want to use bias ply tires in the size F60-15, I chose the modern equivalent, BFG Radial T/A 235/60R15.
Because I did not make good experience with the tire shops around the corner, I mount the tires on the rims the DIY way. Since I do not have a blancing machine, I use the Counteract balancing beads. The stuff comes from Canada and was purchased from a german supplier at approximately 6 Euros/$9 for a 114g bag.
This is the Magnum 500 fresh out of the box
I insert the chrome valve stem
This is the reason why I do not like tire shops. These guys usually bolt the wheel to the balancing machine using a hub cone. Most of them never heard of lug-centric balancing, some others simply fear the effort to change the mounting adapter of the machine. Anyway, so many tires from my americans cars were out of balance when I got them back that I decided either to buy my own balancing machine or find a new way of balancing.
Rim is perfectly cleaned before the tire is set up
Tire is sparingly coated with lubricant. I use a fingertip of dishwashing soap. It is important not to use excess of this stuff, because when it gets into the air chamber of the tire, the balancing beads will stick to it and not do their job.
Tire is mounted on rim. This goes easy. Have an eye on the blue dot. This should be close to the valve. There is a counterweight molded into the tire on the opposite side to compensate the weight of the valve stem.
Counteract bag is opened and content is poured into the tire through the valve. Why didn't I pour the bag directly into the tire before assembly? Answer: I wanted to minimize the chance that some beads get trapped between tire and rim and cause an air leak.
Tire is filled with air to specification.
The repro emblem cap by Scott Drake is mounted.
Finished Wheel, ready to run on the road. (unfortunately with no car attached)
This is a topic I already posted in Motor-Talk last year, but I think it might be of interest for others, too.
When I bought my Mach1 resto car, there were tires on the car which were old and worn and they came in sizes which could never be driven on german roads legally. At least they were far from original.
I decided to five the car the most classic factory rims, Magnum 500 reproductions from Wheel Vintiques in the largest factory size 15x7 and the largest factory optional tires. Since I did not want to use bias ply tires in the size F60-15, I chose the modern equivalent, BFG Radial T/A 235/60R15.
Because I did not make good experience with the tire shops around the corner, I mount the tires on the rims the DIY way. Since I do not have a blancing machine, I use the Counteract balancing beads. The stuff comes from Canada and was purchased from a german supplier at approximately 6 Euros/$9 for a 114g bag.
This is the Magnum 500 fresh out of the box
I insert the chrome valve stem
This is the reason why I do not like tire shops. These guys usually bolt the wheel to the balancing machine using a hub cone. Most of them never heard of lug-centric balancing, some others simply fear the effort to change the mounting adapter of the machine. Anyway, so many tires from my americans cars were out of balance when I got them back that I decided either to buy my own balancing machine or find a new way of balancing.
Rim is perfectly cleaned before the tire is set up
Tire is sparingly coated with lubricant. I use a fingertip of dishwashing soap. It is important not to use excess of this stuff, because when it gets into the air chamber of the tire, the balancing beads will stick to it and not do their job.
Tire is mounted on rim. This goes easy. Have an eye on the blue dot. This should be close to the valve. There is a counterweight molded into the tire on the opposite side to compensate the weight of the valve stem.
Counteract bag is opened and content is poured into the tire through the valve. Why didn't I pour the bag directly into the tire before assembly? Answer: I wanted to minimize the chance that some beads get trapped between tire and rim and cause an air leak.
Tire is filled with air to specification.
The repro emblem cap by Scott Drake is mounted.
Finished Wheel, ready to run on the road. (unfortunately with no car attached)