My 408 build. ITS ALIVE!!!!

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Hey guys got some news on my motor. It is next in line to be assembled, so it shouldnt be long now. We did get the cam picked out finally. When i say we, i mean the machine shop. LOL He chose to run a comp cam big mutha thumper. Nothing too crazy but its healthy. Heres the specs:

Basic Operating RPM Range:2,500-6,200

Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:243

Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:257

Duration at 050 inch Lift:243 int./257 exh.

Advertised Intake Duration:299

Advertised Exhaust Duration:319

Advertised Duration:299 int./319 exh.

Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.579 in.

Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.563 in.

Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.579 int./0.563 exh.

Lobe Separation (degrees):107

Grind Number:299THR7

Computer-Controlled Compatible:No

Lifters Included:Yes

Lifter Style:Hydraulic roller

We did order the retro fit roller lifters from comp, but they ended up not being as advertised and pretty cheesy. So we went with another set of roller lifters from comp. Not sure what he ordered because they are not in yet. Also waiting on the Carb to be built from Pro Systems. We ended up having to run a thicker head gasket to get the compression down into the pump gas range. As it sits it was around 11.25 to 1. A little steep.

I cant wait to get this thing back. I bought an eastwood powder coating kit and started coating my brackets and pulleys. Getting practiced up to shoot my intake and stock valve pan covers in cast aluminum color. Then my brothers friend is going to pinstripe the raised "power by ford" in black.

I did have a couple pics to put up, but cant get them to work at the moment. I will try them again later.

 
Ok guys got some more info on my motor today. The bottom end is all assembled. The heads and intake are just sitting on it. Waiting for some custom head gaskets. My compression was around 11.5-11.75 way too much for pump gas. So we are using some .080 head gaskets to get it around 10-10.25. I will lose about 40-50hp but he said I wont even notice it on the street. Should still be around 550-575 hp. After the topend gets assembled we have to order the pushrods and carb. He said about 2 weeks and it should be all done. He still has to epoxy fill the intake runners to match the heads but that shouldn't be too bad. I need to get the car uncovered and pushed into the middle of garage and get started on it. Heres a few pics of the motor for a teaser.

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1jlnol.jpg


 
Ok guys got some more info on my motor today. The bottom end is all assembled. The heads and intake are just sitting on it. Waiting for some custom head gaskets. My compression was around 11.5-11.75 way too much for pump gas. So we are using some .080 head gaskets to get it around 10-10.25. I will lose about 40-50hp but he said I wont even notice it on the street. Should still be around 550-575 hp. After the topend gets assembled we have to order the pushrods and carb. He said about 2 weeks and it should be all done. He still has to epoxy fill the intake runners to match the heads but that shouldn't be too bad. I need to get the car uncovered and pushed into the middle of garage and get started on it. Heres a few pics of the motor for a teaser.

18yamq.jpg


2nqfss7.jpg


1jlnol.jpg
I have been following your build and I think you have made some great choices, however (yes I am going to piss in your cheerios right now)...

Increasing the compressed gasket thickness to .080 to address the pump gas issue may cause more problems than it solves.

What will the quench distance be?

If the short block is not assembled yet, perhaps it would be worth considering milling the pistons to achieve the compression ratio you need while maintaining a more reasonable quench distance.

Resistance to detonation is about more than just static compression ratio.

 
Ok guys got some more info on my motor today. The bottom end is all assembled. The heads and intake are just sitting on it. Waiting for some custom head gaskets. My compression was around 11.5-11.75 way too much for pump gas. So we are using some .080 head gaskets to get it around 10-10.25. I will lose about 40-50hp but he said I wont even notice it on the street. Should still be around 550-575 hp. After the topend gets assembled we have to order the pushrods and carb. He said about 2 weeks and it should be all done. He still has to epoxy fill the intake runners to match the heads but that shouldn't be too bad. I need to get the car uncovered and pushed into the middle of garage and get started on it. Heres a few pics of the motor for a teaser.

18yamq.jpg


2nqfss7.jpg


1jlnol.jpg
I have been following your build and I think you have made some great choices, however (yes I am going to piss in your cheerios right now)...

Increasing the compressed gasket thickness to .080 to address the pump gas issue may cause more problems than it solves.

What will the quench distance be?

If the short block is not assembled yet, perhaps it would be worth considering milling the pistons to achieve the compression ratio you need while maintaining a more reasonable quench distance.

Resistance to detonation is about more than just static compression ratio.
Thanks for the input. I dont know enough about these motors to answer that. Thats why im paying to have it built. What would the difference be if you shave the pistons or raise the heads?? overall your getting the same effect? slightly lower compression. Thanks again

 
You've done a good thing in getting a Pro-Systems carby, they are great people to deal with and there carbs are a top bit of kit, I've got two of them and the 750 ran right straight out of the box, on my 347w, only adjustment was to go down one jet size in the secondarys when the motor was dyno tuned. Have a 950 for my 460 project, And I'm 100% confident it will be all good come start up time..

 
Ok guys got some more info on my motor today. The bottom end is all assembled. The heads and intake are just sitting on it. Waiting for some custom head gaskets. My compression was around 11.5-11.75 way too much for pump gas. So we are using some .080 head gaskets to get it around 10-10.25. I will lose about 40-50hp but he said I wont even notice it on the street. Should still be around 550-575 hp. After the topend gets assembled we have to order the pushrods and carb. He said about 2 weeks and it should be all done. He still has to epoxy fill the intake runners to match the heads but that shouldn't be too bad. I need to get the car uncovered and pushed into the middle of garage and get started on it. Heres a few pics of the motor for a teaser.

18yamq.jpg


2nqfss7.jpg


1jlnol.jpg
I have been following your build and I think you have made some great choices, however (yes I am going to piss in your cheerios right now)...

Increasing the compressed gasket thickness to .080 to address the pump gas issue may cause more problems than it solves.

What will the quench distance be?

If the short block is not assembled yet, perhaps it would be worth considering milling the pistons to achieve the compression ratio you need while maintaining a more reasonable quench distance.

Resistance to detonation is about more than just static compression ratio.
Thanks for the input. I dont know enough about these motors to answer that. Thats why im paying to have it built. What would the difference be if you shave the pistons or raise the heads?? overall your getting the same effect? slightly lower compression. Thanks again
The difference is that raising the heads reduces quench which increases the potential for detonation and decreases torque. By taking material out of the piston dish you lower the compression ratio while maintaining proper quench distance.

Having said all that with aluminum heads and that much cam I don't think you will have any issues. If I had bothered to read your post more carefully I would have seen that your short block is already assembled. Sorry.

 
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Finally got the motor from the machine shop today. Cant wait to get it dropped in this week. Hope to have it up and running for the big car show in Butler this weekend. Cruise-a-palooza!

 
Hey guys, Just figured I would give you a heads up on how my 408 build is going and give a rundown on some of the parts I have ordered. Well everyone probably knows all about my other motor that dropped a valve at the end of summer and destroyed it. If not heres the thread for some nice reading :D http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-bad-day-catastrophic-engine-failure-updated-pics-of-the-carnage

Any how the plan is to build a 408 Cleveland stroker with aluminum AFD 4v heads. I found a good standard block on craigslist locally for a steal of $75. Its at the machine shop now and has been gone all through and is awaiting the rest of the parts. For the rotating assembly I went with a Scat 408 kit thats balanced and includes the damper and flexplate.

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I got it ordered and now just waiting for SCAT to finish it up. Just a heads up alot of these companies are running 6-8 weeks behind on rotating assemblies. Just that time of year i guessl. Heres the link for the specs. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-94270be/media/images/make/ford

For the heads i went with AFD4VS aluminum heads. I have done a good bit of research and these seem to be very good heads for the money. Roy is running a set on his car and seems to like them too. I just ordered the heads today and should have them in about 10 days.

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Heres some info on the heads. http://www.ebay.com/itm/boss-302-351c-351-cleveland-Air-Flow-Dynamics-heads-complete-AFD-Ford-smallblock-/170977461851?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27cf0d065b

For the intake I am going to run an Edelbrock Torker II. The guy Im buying the heads off of reconmended this intake and it seems like it will work nicely for me. I ordered it the other day and should be here anytime.

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Heres a link to the intake info. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2760/overview/make/ford

I am going to be running my Harland Sharp Roller rockers from my other motor since they are a quality part and were not damaged at all.

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Heres a link to the info for the rockers. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s4005/overview/make/ford

For the headers I will be able to reuse my Hedman cermaic coated headers again. The AFD heads actually have a 2V exhaust design and will work well with my headers.

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Heres a link to the info for the headers. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88226/overview/make/ford/model/mustang

As far as a cam choice goes I am still not sure what cam we will run yet. My engine builder is going to talk with the guy that sells the AFD heads and collaborate with him to come up with a good cam spec. It will probably be a Comp cam with hydraulic roller lifters. And as far as the carb goes I also have to order a new one because my holley 750dp will not be enough to feed this beast! :D So once the engine builder tells me what cfm I will need to run I will start shopping around for a new carb.

Thats all I have so far. But im sure I will have more to come. Cant wait till spring to get this monster on the road again!!!

Thanks for reading.

Kevin
Great job Kevin, very comprehensive build. I like the $75.00 block the best!

 
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Got the motor and trans in last night after work. Getting CLOSER!!!! Gonna try to button everything up tonight and possibly fire it up tonight or in the morning. Depends on how many beers it takes to get it finished up tonight! :D Cant wait for this thing to breathe FIRE!

 
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