My Next Project (V Code 71 Roadrunner)

[jbojo]

6/23/16

Looking for more issues and I found 2. After I got the trunk cleaned I found a spot in the trunk that was rotted through. It is small enough that I can weld in a small patch to fix. After I get the gas tank off it will give me a better idea of what the trunk floor looks like.

The second issue is with the frame rail on the drivers side rear that goes over the rear axle. Not sure why it's in this condition but I will have to cut out the area and weld in a patch. I have ordered the materials to do this.

Going to cut out the exhaust in the drivers side next and then remove that auto tranny that was installed. Here are a couple of pics of the issues I found.

 

[4mm]

Nice! I wish I had those skills.

 

[jbojo]

Nice! I wish I had those skills.

You have the skills, just takes the time and patience to figure out how you want to do it.

BTW, right now I am just trying to identify all the metal work that needs to be done. I want to get everything off so I have the body only and then get it on the rotisserie to do the work. It will be easier if I don't have to do the work on my back or climbing on things when I do the welding. I will try to document all the repairs as I do them, stayed tuned.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Nice work! I'm eagerly watching this one, as the '71-'74 Mopar B-bodies are on my Top-5 List of favorite muscle cars - Road Runners, Satellites, and GTXs on top of those.

You are also correct - anybody can do this stuff. As with anything, it just takes time, patience, practice, the right advice, the right tools, and a little bit of luck doesn't hurt, either.

 

[tony-muscle]

The second issue is with the frame rail on the drivers side rear that goes over the rear axle. Not sure why it's in this condition but I will have to cut out the area and weld in a patch. I have ordered the materials to do this.

I am looking at your picture and can't figure out a logic way of how the frame rail will break like this. It looks like a pipe burst due to internal pressure, but obviously the rail is not under pressure. I wonder if someone cut the railing for who knows what reason and the bent open the metal as they move along the cut, or something was forced though the railing to shear the frame. Just weird!

 

[jbojo]

The second issue is with the frame rail on the drivers side rear that goes over the rear axle. Not sure why it's in this condition but I will have to cut out the area and weld in a patch. I have ordered the materials to do this.

I am looking at your picture and can't figure out a logic way of how the frame rail will break like this. It looks like a pipe burst due to internal pressure, but obviously the rail is not under pressure. I wonder if someone cut the railing for who knows what reason and the bent open the metal as they move along the cut, or something was forced though the railing to shear the frame. Just weird!

That is a good description of what it looks like. I have been trying to figure out why someone would do this too. The saving grace is that they did not cut down the sides of that rail.

 

[Luke]

Looks like someone put a hook in the chassis rail and tried to pull the car backwards for whatever reason. I would just check the drivers side floor and frame rail common mopar rust spots even in dry cars. Trunk is most likely a result of a leak around the back window because of the few rust spots you found there.

 

[jbojo]

Luke,

Spoke with PO and he confirms that one night while drunk he put the car in the ditch and pulled it out by hooking the chain on that frame rail so that explains the damage

Continued the tear now and I found some more issues though they are minor. The first is on the rear wheel wells, they rolled the lip to get bigger tires on it and I noticed it because there were waves in the metal. Nothing serious so I'll just need to get those waves out of the metal. I was considering trying to get those wheel well lips back but I am just thinking to leave well enough alone. Opinions? The second is the shifter hump. When they put in the auto they cut out some of the top panel so I'll have to patch up that now. Again it is nothing major and while I am putting in the patch I'll weld the extra drill holes closed. Here are some pics of the shifter and the tranny hump which should be a square hole. Tomorrow I am going to try to get the tranny out. Went to a car show today and saw this 71 Challenger with a 440-4V and 4spd for sale. The guy wanted 32K or best offer. He was wanting to get a GM sports car.

 

[Luke]

John that looks like a nice car for the money on the pics at least.

Here are my thoughts on restoring the RR. I think that this is a pretty unique car so stock standard is where the value is as far as resale well at least here in Aus. Here is where I am at personally stock is fine but if you like to enjoy your car slight mods make the whole thing more pleasant. I would probably try to put the lips back on and just sacrifice a tire size or two in width if you are going to run mags. I know you are going overdrive and I personally would have no hesitation in running different pipes and period correct mags on it, kind like if you brought it brand new and went straight around to the tyre shop and exhaust place the next morning I would probably lower the whole thing about 2in from stock too. These are all minor things that can be reversed.

That's just me at the end of the day your call, its going to be a sweet thing no matter what.

 

[jbojo]

John that looks like a nice car for the money on the pics at least.

Here are my thoughts on restoring the RR. I think that this is a pretty unique car so stock standard is where the value is as far as resale well at least here in Aus. Here is where I am at personally stock is fine but if you like to enjoy your car slight mods make the whole thing more pleasant. I would probably try to put the lips back on and just sacrifice a tire size or two in width if you are going to run mags. I know you are going overdrive and I personally would have no hesitation in running different pipes and period correct mags on it, kind like if you brought it brand new and went straight around to the tyre shop and exhaust place the next morning I would probably lower the whole thing about 2in from stock too. These are all minor things that can be reversed.

That's just me at the end of the day your call, its going to be a sweet thing no matter what.

Luke,

Thx I value your opinion here. Do you think that I should try to bend the lips back or weld on new ones? I'll attach pics of the wheel wells tomorrow.

 

[Luke]

I think it would depend on whether the lips have been cut then rolled or just rolled also how much care the PO took doing it, also what it all looks like when the paint comes off.For me it's the grill and rear guards that are signatures of these particular B bodies so in my mind it warrants a good repairs. Again just a opinion from half a world away mate.

Funny thing how fuselage mopars where unwanted for years here in Australia now the prices are starting to creep just like 71-73 mustangs. Do all of us on the forum have strange taste or are we ahead of the herd

 

[72MustangSprint]

Luke,

Spoke with PO and he confirms that one night while drunk he put the car in the ditch and pulled it out by hooking the chain on that frame rail so that explains the damage

Continued the tear now and I found some more issues though they are minor. The first is on the rear wheel wells, they rolled the lip to get bigger tires on it and I noticed it because there were waves in the metal. Nothing serious so I'll just need to get those waves out of the metal. I was considering trying to get those wheel well lips back but I am just thinking to leave well enough alone. Opinions? The second is the shifter hump. When they put in the auto they cut out some of the top panel so I'll have to patch up that now. Again it is nothing major and while I am putting in the patch I'll weld the extra drill holes closed. Here are some pics of the shifter and the tranny hump which should be a square hole. Tomorrow I am going to try to get the tranny out. Went to a car show today and saw this 71 Challenger with a 440-4V and 4spd for sale. The guy wanted 32K or best offer. He was wanting to get a GM sports car.

not to be picky but that nice Challenger looks to be a 73. I cant wait to see our your car done. Looks like good progress.

 

[jbojo]

6/26/16

Took a couple of pictures of the rear fender well and I believe that I will be able to reform them back to original again. Attached some pics.

Also got the entire exhaust off including the manifolds and all the accessories off the motor. I have a long weekend next week so the motor should hopefully be out by then.

Including pics of the underside and motor area.

 

[Luke]

Yes looks like you should be able to reform them. Underside looks pretty good.

 

[mach71351c]

You don't find projects this solid to often. Congrats john.

 

[jbojo]

7/2/16

The old motor and tranny is out. The engine wiring harness was a total mess. Wires were spliced, insulation burned and not even hooked up to the sensors. Lucky these are repro'd so it shouldn't be a big issue.

Next step is to start removing the panels so that I can get it on the rotisserie. Also going to try pull out the long dent along the drivers door using studs. This will be the first time I ever did this so I'll document it with pictures. Here are some of todays pics.

 

[DK73]

Wow that is so awesome Job your doing [WINKING FACE] so keep them coming John[TONGUE][THUMBS UP SIGN] Regards Lars

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[jbojo]

7/3/16

Thx Lars.

Today I wanted to try out a new toy so I decided to take out the damage on the rear passenger side. It was crunched so I decided to pull out the metal with welded studs. You can see that I had several dented in areas and the gap below the rear side light was pushed in about 1/2 inch. Once I welded in the studs I used "Stud Lever" to pull on the panels. As you pull the handle it pulls the metal and you use a body hammer to relieve the stress. I got all the dents pulled and I think that I will need to use 1/16 inch of filler to get the final shape and finish.

This was my trial run in prep to do the drivers door. It has about a 25 inch gash and the metal is pushed in along the crease. The normal shape is an outward curve on the bottom and because its the door you can't use body tools.

Here are some pics from today

 

[Luke]

Very good. John is that a red dodge pick up I see.

 

[DK73]

Wow that is so awesome work John! But where have you got those tools for body work? That's what I would love to get! [TONGUE][THUMBS UP SIGN] Regards Lars

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