My Next Project (V Code 71 Roadrunner)

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That's going to be a bad *** car, love it! Do you have a estimate of when you'll have it completed by? If you're ever in the Olympia area with it make sure you give me a heads up so I can see it in person.

 
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That's going to be a bad *** car, love it! Do you have a estimate of when you'll have it completed by? If you're ever in the Olympia area with it make sure you give me a heads up so I can see it in person.
Jim,

I am planning for around the spring of next year. It will depend on if there are any body issues or rust that needs to be dealt with. Also I am on a waiting list for a A855 5 spd tranny for it which should be available around February. For sure I'll let you know when I bring it over to the west side. Hoping to take it to some summer shows next year.

 
I agree that Mopar's come up with some weird looking stuff.

The turbo sure looks like it would fit in with the exhaust set up.

Here is the look that I am striving for when I am done.
It looks like it will be a twin of this engine and am really envious, but not envious of the tuning on the six pack that will be inevitable...



Looks good John.


This thread has that effect lol. Pics please.
I was going to run buy there during lunch today, but wasn't feeling too good. I am going to attempt to get some pictures tomorrow, stay tuned... Hope it hasn't been sold!
Looking forward to seeing some pics of the 72 RR.

Never had multi carbs so yeah the tuning will be a new experience for me. That was one of the reasons why the 4V carb was used for break in to avoid unnecessary cranking of the motor. The power steering pump is on the motor now, still waiting for the alternator brackets and a few misc parts.
Bad news, or good news for my bank account! The 72 Roadrunner was sold a few weeks ago. It's probably a good thing that I didn't drive past it every day. My driveway is already full (nothing classic though) and I didn't need to explain the expenditure to the Mrs...:whistling:

 
That 72 was a good price, didn't think it would last long.

The motor is essentially done now. Now to get the bell housing for it. I have located the correct one so I'll be getting it soon. The dizzy on the motor is not the dual point one. Just used that one because it was known to work for the motor start up.

front2.JPG

 
I am such a geek for the B/RB mopars. Every time you post a picture of the motor I just drool.

And I would like to mention that I really appreciate all the information I have received and learned on this forum, and have also noticed that a bunch of ford guys are not snobby about having us discuss mopars here.

This is truly a diverse and helpful forum...::thumb::

 
I need to replace the Pilot Bushing on the crankshaft for the manual transmission input shaft. Any suggestions on how to do this. The opening is only .75" so finding a puller may be difficult. Thx

 
old trick is to pack the hole with grease and hammer a steel drift

into the hole filled with grease and it will hydraulically push it out.

(A 3/8 extension with a deep socket on backwards that fits the ID snugly works)

Paul

 
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old trick is to pack the hole with grease and hammer a steel drift

into the hole filled with grease and it will hydraulically push it out.

(A 3/8 extension with a deep socket on backwards that fits the ID snugly works)

Paul
Even if the thickness is .18" (3/16")?

 
Thanks everyone for all your replies. I looked at everything from using grease to using bread and wet strips of paper and decided to try to find a puller. I wound up getting this one from NAPA for $40 and it was out with 2 slides of the hammer puller.

Next step is to CHECK AND DIAL IN PROPER BELL HOUSING TO FLYWHEEL ALIGNMENT. Don't want to ruin the taper bearing on the input shaft of the 5 speed that I am getting from Passon Performance.

In about a month I will be in Phoenix to get the car up to Washington where I will start the disassembly and restoration work.

DSCN4219.JPG

DSCN4220.JPG

 
Guys,

I have a few questions about clutches as this is my first manual. In 71 Mopar went from a 11" to 10.5 inch bell housing. My motor should produce 400HP and 460ft/lbs torque so I am wondering if I should go with a 10.9" disk vice the OEM 10.5" one. The 10.9" clutch disk is made to fit the 10.5" 130 teeth flywheels so will that extra size be worth it. Also should I upgrade from the street to the performance clutch? Lastly is the 3 finger or the diaphram clutch release on the pressure plate better? Here are the ones I am looking at:

Looking between Center Force and McLeod:

Center Force 10.9 street diaphragm release

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CDF1018

Mcleod 10.9 Street 3 finger release

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MC1018

McLeod 10.9 Performance diaphram release

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MCDP1018

Or is just sticking with OEM better?

 
The bigger the better? I am sure there are other factors that would play a role like materials, weight, etc. But if larger diameter means more friction area then i will guess its better.

1971 M-code Mach 1

 
The bigger the better? I am sure there are other factors that would play a role like materials, weight, etc. But if larger diameter means more friction area then i will guess its better.

1971 M-code Mach 1
Talked to Brewers Performance about this and the 10.9" clutch plate provides more surface area for better grip while still using the 10.5" pressure plate. I think I'll go this route.

 
In a couple of weeks I'll be making my way down to Chandler AZ to bring the RR to its new home in WA. I'll take lots of pics so you can see how much work it's going to need to get it running again. I was able to get the repro Distributor tag for the one that was lost and it looks pretty good. The distributor is a dual points one and the people into Mopars here have been telling me that I should go electronic. Just can't bring myself to do that conversion at this time.

When I get it here the first thing that I am going to do is strip everything off of it and look for the build sheet. Though the fender tag does a good job with the major options it does not detail a lot of the unique pieces and I really need this sheet. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Here is a pic of the the distributor tag I got.

20160508_145210.jpg

 
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