My Next Project (V Code 71 Roadrunner)

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Well my pleasure John[FACE SAVOURING DELICIOUS FOOD] Well as the stuff is made outside us! It doesn't fit! Well it's doesn't matter what Car! It's sadly they don't take pride of making the parts fit. But you are doing a good job. My freind [WINKING FACE] [THUMBS UP SIGN] Regards Lars 🇩🇰

Sendt fra min E2303 med Tapatalk

 
Thx guys.

I contacted Legendary and told them about the dash pad issue. They wanted pictures so I sent them and now waiting for them to get back to me. Hopefully they will just replace it, more to come.

 
Decided to tackle some of the rusted through holes on the front windshield frame base. It has a series of holes on both the passenger and drivers side corners as well as one right in the center. All of the e brake pedal and the clutch and brake pedals were rusted because of the leaks. I got so involved with trying to figure how to repair the passenger side that I didn't take any pics until I was done. There were 3 holes along the track and one on the cowl area that I fixed. Any way I took pics of the drivers side and the finished passenger side to show you what I am dealing with. Next weekend I will tackle the drivers side and will detail the work a little better. I am leaning on replacing the whole rear window header as the rear window base is really bad.

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Quick update,

I got my restored wiper motor today that is the variable speed model which is correct for this car. The guy did a super job on the restoration. Also a replacement Dash pad is being sent to me to fix the foam defect on the passenger side.

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Replacement dash pad came in and it was much better. Also the steering column is done and is going to be shipped next week. Lastly I started to work on the holes on the driver side and will complete it this weekend. There were 2 large holes and the biggest one is now done. Its all black in the area as I put some rust converter on the area to stop the rust.

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Finished the drivers side lower window frame this morning. I enlarged the hole to get to clean thicker metal. Next I cut the filler strip but kept dropping it through the hole. The solution was to weld a stud so that I had something to grip while I welded the corners. Finished the welds and put in a little filler to give it a firm surface and applied etching primer to protect the surface.

One more hole in the center of the lower windshield frame and the about 6 holes at the top. Only one is large and the rest are fairly small.

When the car is blasted I will go over all the repaired section again to get a better surface before I epoxy prime the come back in with some light filler then use filler primer to block sand the car and seal again with the epoxy primer and paint.

This car is going to take longer then I thought to complete.

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John,

Just a reminder you can not use any rust converters-self etch primers or anything with acid if your applying epoxy over it. UNLESS the product epoxy your using says you can use over acid. Better make sure it's gone when you media blast prior to epoxy. Better off to mix a little epoxy in a cup and brush over those areas.

 
John,

Just a reminder you can not use any rust converters-self etch primers or anything with acid if your applying epoxy over it. UNLESS the product epoxy your using says you can use over acid. Better make sure it's gone when you media blast prior to epoxy. Better off to mix a little epoxy in a cup and brush over those areas.
Thx for the info. I figure when I media blast its going to remove the filler and I will need to redo those areas. Didn't realize the info about the epoxy though. I will start using a gray primer to protect the areas in the meantime instead. I finished the lower windshield holes today.

 
I managed to fix the hole in the center of the windshield frame too. What started out as a small hole wound up bigger than I thought. Started pushing on the metal and it was flexing to easy so it was pretty thin. Any way I cut it all out and bent a replacement piece and welded it up. All the holes on the bottom are now patched up. Now to the upper part of the frame.

Still need to do some body work but that will come after the car has been primered.

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John,

Just a reminder you can not use any rust converters-self etch primers or anything with acid if your applying epoxy over it. UNLESS the product epoxy your using says you can use over acid. Better make sure it's gone when you media blast prior to epoxy. Better off to mix a little epoxy in a cup and brush over those areas.
Thx for the info. I figure when I media blast its going to remove the filler and I will need to redo those areas. Didn't realize the info about the epoxy though. I will start using a gray primer to protect the areas in the meantime instead. I finished the lower windshield holes today.
When you redo those areas I would use upol fiberal as your base filler then regular filler on top of that if you need more.

 
John,

Just a reminder you can not use any rust converters-self etch primers or anything with acid if your applying epoxy over it. UNLESS the product epoxy your using says you can use over acid. Better make sure it's gone when you media blast prior to epoxy. Better off to mix a little epoxy in a cup and brush over those areas.
Thx for the info. I figure when I media blast its going to remove the filler and I will need to redo those areas. Didn't realize the info about the epoxy though. I will start using a gray primer to protect the areas in the meantime instead. I finished the lower windshield holes today.
When you redo those areas I would use upol fiberal as your base filler then regular filler on top of that if you need more.
Thx for the info Scott.

 
Need some help on rims, This is what I am looking at:

FRT G60-15 Goodyear polyglas 8.4" tread width

Rear L60-15 Goodyear PolyGlas 9.0" tread width

Rims Rallye 15x 8

These come in 4.50 or 4.625 backspace. Will the L60's fit ok in the front? Which combination is better for the 71 RR's?

 
If you can get away with it run the larger tires it will give it a NASCAR vibe. For my personal taste I would go with a 4.5 back space just to fill large rear guards. Cannot help with back space on the front or even guess clearances on the front. Can you borrow a wheel to test fit it

 
If you can get away with it run the larger tires it will give it a NASCAR vibe. For my personal taste I would go with a 4.5 back space just to fill large rear guards. Cannot help with back space on the front or even guess clearances on the front. Can you borrow a wheel to test fit it
I am going to try with the Mopar club members here. I agree that the car would look better with the bigger tires,

Also contacted Passon Performance to see if my 5 speed was still on schedule for the Jan delivery. They said they would not make that date with no estimate of delivery. I have heard that some units are slipping out of gear on some units and they are looking for a fix.

 
Received the steering column back today. The guy did a great job and it looks new. We replaced all the electrical components and ignition key cylinder with door locks with NOS pieces and painted it to match the dash. The mount for the firewall was powdered coated for durability. Going to store it away till it's ready to go back in.

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I spoke to the guy that owns this car and he is running G60-15 on the front and L60-15 on the rear on Rallye 15 x 7 rims with standard backspacing and no suspension mods.

He also has these for the car; Goodyear Eagle 1 yellow letter tires (245/60 front, 275/60 rear).

Looks like my tire combination will work. I checked and the 15 x 7 rim is ok for these tires but I think I will go 15x8 on the rear. I was going to try to fix the rolled rear fenders but I may just leave them as is and it should give me adequate clearance. The L60-15 has about a 10 inch tire width.

Ran numbers with the 4 spd, 4.10 rear and with this tire setup the rpm at 70 mph would be 3443. With the GV it would be 2685 rpm and 2754 rpm with the Passon Performance 5 speed. With overdrive the rear axle is equivalent to 3.23.

Only decision now is whether to go with the GV and the A-833 tranny which would be like a 8 spd if you shift in and out of OD for each gear. GV makes a pistol grip with the OD button on the grip so to go into OD is just a push of the button. This would be the gear ratio for the tranny through the gears and the rpm's the motor would be turning using the GV.

2.65 1st 40mph @5200 rpm

2.06 1st OD 50 mph @ 5050 rpm

1.93 2nd 55mph @ 5200 rpm

1.50 2nd OD 69mph @ 5100 rpm

1.39 3rd 75mph @ 5100 rpm

1.08 3rd OD 95 mph @ 5050 rpm

1.0 4th 102 mph @ 5000rpm

.78 4th OD 131 mph @ 5000 rpm

In theory I could do 0 to 60 in 1st gear and turn 6000 rpm without having to shift.

The Passon 5 spd would have the similar numbers for 1st to 4th above and in 5th at 131 mph 5150 rpm. It has a .80 final in OD.

The GV setup would be about a 2k savings. Going to have to think about this some more. There are a lot of pro's and con's for each

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