Need a bit of help figuring out what goes where

[rambot]

I've been away for a while, but always lurking these boards. I have a few rookie questions. I have a 71 Mach 1, 351C, 2 Barrel, I believe the carb is an Autolite 2100. I'm not sure where A1 is suppose to connect to, I don't see a thread on A2 (which is where I assume A1 is supposed to connect to) from the pictures for it to connect. Am I missing something here?

Also, I'm missing possibly a screw and nut where the trottle cable connects I think. If anybody be kind enough to let me know what hardware goes here, I'd be really grateful.

I'm going to go with a round filter while I save up money for a RAM AIR system, so not sure if this is supposed to be connected to anything in the meantime, or if I need to put one of those small filters here?

Finally, been scratching my head over this one for a bit, what is this hose supposed to connect to?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

1) You see to be missing the threaded inlet at the choke assembly. Most likely PO changed the carb to another year / model that did not have it.

2) Someone else can address

3) Hooks into side of main air cleaner assembly - there should be a plastic mesh filter with this to catch oil. Ram Air or regular both have the hole for the filter piece.

4) Vacuum hose should go to ported connection at the carb. This is an important line since it advances the distributor timing with rpms. It appears you also have another vacuum line on top (dual vacuum). My understanding has always been the end line (circled) is the critical one. The other is the retard line.

 

[basstrix]

The correct choke housing should have male threads at A2 and A1 screws onto them. There may be a brass fitting you can get to correct the situation.

As I recall, there is a tear-drop shaped retainer on the opposite side of the cable bracket. A screw passes through the tear drop shaped retainer plate into the hole at B1.

C1 attaches to ported vacuum on the carb. I can't go out and look on my carb to tell you exactly which port, but all I can say is that ported vacuum ports are typically below the air horn and above the throttle plate. Vacuum is little to nothing at idle and increases with air flow through the carb (i.e. as engine speed increases).

D1 attaches to the air filter housing. There is usually a U shaped clip that holds the elbow fitting to the housing and often a small and somewhat rectangular shaped fiber filter plugs into the elbow from inside the housing.

Hopefully others will chime in and post up some pictures, but the above should give you a good start.


I just noticed that your battery ground cable is attached to a bolt which supports the power steering pump. This is not a very good way to establish ground. There should be a boss with threaded hole on the passenger side of engine block where this should attach. You want the contact areas between the block and cable to both be clean bare metal.

 

[jpaz]

Here are some pics of the throttle cable retaining clip & the air breather hose. Hope this helps.View attachment 36481View attachment 36483

 

[SteveO_71]

Here are vacuum diagrams / info for a 71.

1971 Mustang Vacuum Hose Diagrams.pdf

 

[rambot]

As I recall, there is a tear-drop shaped retainer on the opposite side of the cable bracket. A screw passes through the tear drop shaped retainer plate into the hole at B1.

Thanks, yeah there's a plastic tear dropped part on the other side, but I was wondering if it was just a screw that went there, or a small nut and bolt and what the thread size was if anybody knew.

I just noticed that your battery ground cable is attached to a bolt which supports the power steering pump. This is not a very good way to establish ground. There should be a boss with threaded hole on the passenger side of engine block where this should attach. You want the contact areas between the block and cable to both be clean bare metal.

Thanks! I haven't added a battery yet, but I'll definitely be fixing this. The previous owner had over 100 cars in his lot in different states of "restoration". There's a few things I've come to find, that I'm not even sure he was aware of. For example, I'm pretty sure a lot of the front end is a mash up of 72/73 parts. I just ordered a 71 front Polyutherane bumper I happened to find on Ebay after months of looking. I'm not too keen of the larger 73 front bumper my car has on it. It feels too long to me.

D1 attaches to the air filter housing. There is usually a U shaped clip that holds the elbow fitting to the housing and often a small and somewhat rectangular shaped fiber filter plugs into the elbow from inside the housing.

Hopefully others will chime in and post up some pictures, but the above should give you a good start.



So do I need another small filter like the red one here for D1? This is the setup I was planning on using until I got the car up and running and was sure it was running fine before investing into the RAM AIR setup and getting the snorkel installed again. This is what I have on the car at the moment.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

It appears you do not have a functioning PCV system. I would place a PCV valve in the rear passenger side valve cover and run it to either a vacuum tree off the manifold or your carb if it has a 3/8ths fitting for it. Not running a PCV system at the very least leads to a grungy engine compartment and a general oil stink around the car. At worst it leads to excessive crank case contamination and reduced oil and engine life.

The throttle cable attaches with a hex head coarse thread screw-sorry I don't know the thread size but I'd guess it to be about a #8 screw.

Leaving the hot air tube disconnected will lead to the choke opening a little slowly-it won't really hurt anything else. If you can fit a short section of tube in to allow you to get hot air to the choke it would be helpful. A piece of small copper line should work fine.

 

[rambot]

It appears you do not have a functioning PCV system. I would place a PCV valve in the rear passenger side valve cover and run it to either a vacuum tree off the manifold or your carb if it has a 3/8ths fitting for it. Not running a PCV system at the very least leads to a grungy engine compartment and a general oil stink around the car. At worst it leads to excessive crank case contamination and reduced oil and engine life.

The throttle cable attaches with a hex head coarse thread screw-sorry I don't know the thread size but I'd guess it to be about a #8 screw.

Leaving the hot air tube disconnected will lead to the choke opening a little slowly-it won't really hurt anything else. If you can fit a short section of tube in to allow you to get hot air to the choke it would be helpful. A piece of small copper line should work fine.

Cool thanks so much for all the help. The car sat for 20 years, not sure how much alteration the previous (I'm guessing) 3 owners have done to it. I know the last two were attempting to restore it, but mostly just sat.I know it was in a front end accident, and has a salvage title, so there's definitely things that were switched out, but everything else is just discovery and attempting to restore her.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Good luck, I'm sure with a lot of persistence you'll bring the old girl back to life.

 

[rambot]

Thanks, personally I'm in no rush. I'm new to this whole thing. I've always loved Mustangs though, and always wanted one, but have been loving every moment of it, even the headache inducing moments, I like the thrill and rush of trying to figure out this giant puzzle haha. I am trying to start her and make sure engine is running well before I disassemble it all back and clean up and replace and all that.

 

[basstrix]

As I recall, there is a tear-drop shaped retainer on the opposite side of the cable bracket. A screw passes through the tear drop shaped retainer plate into the hole at B1.

Thanks, yeah there's a plastic tear dropped part on the other side, but I was wondering if it was just a screw that went there, or a small nut and bolt and what the thread size was if anybody knew.

I just noticed that your battery ground cable is attached to a bolt which supports the power steering pump. This is not a very good way to establish ground. There should be a boss with threaded hole on the passenger side of engine block where this should attach. You want the contact areas between the block and cable to both be clean bare metal.

Thanks! I haven't added a battery yet, but I'll definitely be fixing this. The previous owner had over 100 cars in his lot in different states of "restoration". There's a few things I've come to find, that I'm not even sure he was aware of. For example, I'm pretty sure a lot of the front end is a mash up of 72/73 parts. I just ordered a 71 front Polyutherane bumper I happened to find on Ebay after months of looking. I'm not too keen of the larger 73 front bumper my car has on it. It feels too long to me.

D1 attaches to the air filter housing. There is usually a U shaped clip that holds the elbow fitting to the housing and often a small and somewhat rectangular shaped fiber filter plugs into the elbow from inside the housing.

Hopefully others will chime in and post up some pictures, but the above should give you a good start.



So do I need another small filter like the red one here for D1? This is the setup I was planning on using until I got the car up and running and was sure it was running fine before investing into the RAM AIR setup and getting the snorkel installed again. This is what I have on the car at the moment.

The large (relatively speaking) hose with silver plug looking thing in the end is your PCV line. It's running along the inside edge of valve cover and alongside intake manifold and the PCV valve is dangling over the front of the head. Remove the Red filter and plug the PCV valve into the oil cap. There is supposed to be a rubber grommet in the oil fill cap that secures the PCV in place. The red filter can be swapped into the other valve cover or hook up the hose you asked about in original post.

 

[mudbilly]

I just noticed that your battery ground cable is attached to a bolt which supports the power steering pump. This is not a very good way to establish ground. There should be a boss with threaded hole on the passenger side of engine block where this should attach. You want the contact areas between the block and cable to both be clean bare metal.

Great advice, bad grounding is nothing but trouble.

The original ground cable also has a integral tab near the middle of the cable. This attaches to the inner fender to act as a chassis ground. At first glance it appears to be just a hanger for the cable, but it is actually attached to the inner wire.

I also ran a separate ground wire to the shock tower bolt as added insurance. :whistling: