need advice with 351c head install

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87fox72mach

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1995 firebird rebuilt motor 5 spd dail driver
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I have a few questions as im going to start putting my 351c 4v heads on my shortblock. I have arp heads studs that im installing and have a few issues

1.) the arp head studs instructions state to use thread sealer if the head stud goes into the water jacket. so do any 351c head boltsgo into water jackets?

2.) ive been told to use Loctite on the cylinder block threads. ive been told blue and that's what im leaning to but some say red.

3.) I was told to apply arp assembly lube to the washer under the nut on the stud?

if anyone has installed arp studs id appreciate the info thanks!

 
I have a few questions as im going to start putting my 351c 4v heads on my shortblock. I have arp heads studs that im installing and have a few issues

1.) the arp head studs instructions state to use thread sealer if the head stud goes into the water jacket. so do any 351c head boltsgo into water jackets?

2.) ive been told to use Loctite on the cylinder block threads. ive been told blue and that's what im leaning to but some say red.

3.) I was told to apply arp assembly lube to the washer under the nut on the stud?

if anyone has installed arp studs id appreciate the info thanks!
The bolts do not go to water, no loctite of any kind, just finger tight. The lube is fine but don't believe ARP lower torque spec with their lube. Guess how I learned that lesson. You can use oil and the factory torque specs.

Just something you may want to consider, will the heads come off with the engine in the car and the studs in place. Another lesson I learned long ago on a non-71-73 car. Chuck

 
I would prefer that I don't have to take them of for a really really long time but if I do I'd leave the engine in most likely. So just some oil on the threads is the way to go?

 
I would prefer that I don't have to take them of for a really really long time but if I do I'd leave the engine in most likely. So just some oil on the threads is the way to go?
What Chuck means is that the heads may not come off the engine with head studs in. The heads will more than likely hit the shock towers before they clear the end of the studs. As you say, you do not plan on removing the heads, so do not worry. But if you do have to remove, be aware of this possibility.

 
Either way if I had to lift the motor to clear the shock tower I'm ok with that. I just wanna do it right the first time lol

 
I have a few questions as im going to start putting my 351c 4v heads on my shortblock. I have arp heads studs that im installing and have a few issues

1.) the arp head studs instructions state to use thread sealer if the head stud goes into the water jacket. so do any 351c head boltsgo into water jackets?

2.) ive been told to use Loctite on the cylinder block threads. ive been told blue and that's what im leaning to but some say red.

3.) I was told to apply arp assembly lube to the washer under the nut on the stud?

if anyone has installed arp studs id appreciate the info thanks!
The bolts do not go to water, no loctite of any kind, just finger tight. The lube is fine but don't believe ARP lower torque spec with their lube. Guess how I learned that lesson. You can use oil and the factory torque specs.

Just something you may want to consider, will the heads come off with the engine in the car and the studs in place. Another lesson I learned long ago on a non-71-73 car. Chuck
+1

I don't think that you can remove the heads with the studs. I didn't think about that when I installed mine. I use the ARP lube with their Torque spec and had no issues.

 
Where exactly did u apply the lube. Should I lube block end threads. The washers? Or the nut side threads. If I can just use oil that be cool to

 
Where exactly did u apply the lube. Should I lube block end threads. The washers? Or the nut side threads. If I can just use oil that be cool to
The studs are just hand tightened and I did use a little lube. I also put a little on both sides of the washers and on the thread of the studs. If I remember correctly the torque was 105 FT/Lbs for the OEM specs and ARP called for 110 FT/Lbs but I would double check. Also I rechecked the torque over a 3 day period before installing it back in the car to account for any settling which did happen.

I used the ARP lube as all the fittings are studs on my motor (heads, mains, oil pan) and just wanted to follow their recommended procedures. Oil would probably work just fine though.

 
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Stock 351C head bolts can be reused over and over and over again.

Stock 351C main cap bolts can also be used over as well.

The only bolts I replace each time are the rod bolts - ARP always.

I do not know your budget but if you need to be frugal you can use the savings to buy something more critical or fun.

- Paul

 
Already got the studs that's why I'm going that route. Hoping it works out!

 
Stock 351C head bolts can be reused over and over and over again.

Stock 351C main cap bolts can also be used over as well.

The only bolts I replace each time are the rod bolts - ARP always.

I do not know your budget but if you need to be frugal you can use the savings to buy something more critical or fun.

- Paul
+ 1 I agree, head studs are overkill in most circumstances... As long no one has over torqued the head bolts and begun to stretch them they will work fine time and again.... It becomes obvious that they are stretching if you continue turning them and the torque reading changes little...

 
I have ARP's. I am using them with 4v CC heads. I followed the ARP instructions.

With my 351C I was able to place the heads on the engine with the studs in place. I am about 99% sure of this. Try it out. Put the studs in and see if you can start to slip the heads on. If it works out then follow the instructions.

 
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