Need help on clutch linkage - 4 speed z bar

[WF 73 Mach 1]

Converting my 73 Mach to a 4 speed. Got ready to install z bar for clutch and I can't seem to get the frame side bracket and the motor side bracket to line up with each other. It is possible I may have the wrong engine bracket but perogie says it's the one. Here are a few pic's. Maybe I am just not getting the idea but if you can help please!!!

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

I hope these pics help you to figure it out, however, it does not appear to be the correct bracket when compared to the one I have off the car. Pics are taken from my 73 w/ 3sp toploader. Same brackets used on the 4sp TLoader.

Pics of the bracket in question

Pics of the correct bracket and I can't believe Perogie of all people got it wrong. This is the correct bracket '71-73 for 302, 351 and 429 motors.

Aftermarket bracket

http://www.cjponyparts.com/CLUTCH-EQUALIZER-BAR-BRACKET-ENGINE-SIDE-SMALL-BLOCK-1971-1973/p/CEBBE6/

 

[WF 73 Mach 1]

Thanks so much for the help, I do have the wrong engine side bracket. With your pic's I was able to find the right one on the web and have ordered it, it is available reproduced. Again thanks for your help!!! Mark

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

Thanks so much for the help, I do have the wrong engine side bracket. With your pic's I was able to find the right one on the web and have ordered it, it is available reproduced. Again thanks for your help!!! Mark

You're welcome Mark! When done, can you post your experience doing this conversion? I too wanted to do the Auto to 4sp Manual conversion on the '71 and sourced every part needed, but decided last minute to stick with the automatic, cruising 3:00 rear end gears and reinstall the A/C unit. I may do the conversion once I see your write up.

DJ

 

[WF 73 Mach 1]

Sure thing, I am almost through. Built my original 351C with aussie heads with new seats, guides, manley valves, screw in studs, bored with sealed power pistons, comp roller cam, roller rockers, arp fasteners, balanced, performer intake with Holley 780, sanderson ceramic coated block hugger headers, toploader 4 speed, 3.50 gears with traction lock. Was hoping to start it up this weekend and drive around the block but will have to wait on the z bar bracket. I bought this car new and with the emissions in 73 it had less than 200 hp, hope to at least double that number! Always wanted it as a 4 speed so thus the conversion. Funny thing, I paid $4100 for this car new and I spent $5200 just for the motor, inflation!!! Again thanks for your help!!

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

Sure thing, I am almost through. Built my original 351C with aussie heads with new seats, guides, manley valves, screw in studs, bored with sealed power pistons, comp roller cam, roller rockers, arp fasteners, balanced, performer intake with Holley 780, sanderson ceramic coated block hugger headers, toploader 4 speed, 3.50 gears with traction lock. Was hoping to start it up this weekend and drive around the block but will have to wait on the z bar bracket. I bought this car new and with the emissions in 73 it had less than 200 hp, hope to at least double that number! Always wanted it as a 4 speed so thus the conversion. Funny thing, I paid $4100 for this car new and I spent $5200 just for the motor, inflation!!! Again thanks for your help!!

I saw your introduction page and really like what I've read and seen. Beautiful stang and great job! Welcome to the group!

 

[WF 73 Mach 1]

Thanks for the welcome.

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

Hi Mark,

I'm not near the car right now to take measurements, but here are some pics to hopefully answer some of your questions. If not the pics you need or need different angles, then let me know and I'll post them.

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Now I have a new problem, the adjustment rod I have seems to be too long or I have the wrong lever going to the throw out bearing. Can you take a pic of your adjustment rod and measure the length of it and also a pic of the end of the z bar where it attaches and maybe a pic of the adjustment bar in place between the z bar and clutch lever. Sorry to be so much trouble but I really need the help if you can spare the time. Thanks, Mark!

 

[Tnfastbk]

Hate to throw a wrench into your plans at this point but check out this system from American powertrain

http://www.americanpowertrain.com/Ford/transmissions/clutch-hydraulic.html

 

[FasTnNefariouS]

Mark, Adjusting rod measures approx. 5"

Later,

DJ

 

[BigPinoyHunk]

Hate to throw a wrench into your plans at this point but check out this system from American powertrain

http://www.americanpowertrain.com/Ford/transmissions/clutch-hydraulic.html

i was waiting for that reply by you roy! how's your set up coming?

 

[Tnfastbk]

Hate to throw a wrench into your plans at this point but check out this system from American powertrain

http://www.americanpowertrain.com/Ford/transmissions/clutch-hydraulic.html

i was waiting for that reply by you roy! how's your set up coming?

Waiting to bleed the system. Everything is in clutch wise but, working on the new wiring harness to be installed the puuting the interior in.

 

[WF 73 Mach 1]

Thanks DJ, your a great help! Mark

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Mine appears to sit at a bit of an angle as well, but works just fine. I did notice that one side is worn on the inside to being a bit egg shaped.

 

[EBSTANG]

Converting my 73 Mach to a 4 speed. Got ready to install z bar for clutch and I can't seem to get the frame side bracket and the motor side bracket to line up with each other. It is possible I may have the wrong engine bracket but perogie says it's the one. Here are a few pic's. Maybe I am just not getting the idea but if you can help please!!!

 

[mrmach1]

I did this conversation back in 1999. I had spent almost 6 months searching for original dated parts for my 1972. I found that ok once I had all the correct parts the conversation was very straight forward. One thing I found that you might want to do, I drilled a hole and tapped it in the z bar for a grease fitting so it can be serviced and prolong the life of the bushings. I can't take credit for this idea I saw it on a few other Z bars while shopping for the right one for my car.

.

 

[klinton994]

Sure thing, I am almost through.  Built my original 351C with aussie heads with new seats, guides, manley valves, screw in studs, bored with sealed power pistons, comp roller cam, roller rockers, arp fasteners, balanced, performer intake with Holley 780, sanderson ceramic coated block hugger headers, toploader 4 speed, 3.50 gears with traction lock.  Was hoping to start it up this weekend and drive around the block but will have to wait on the z bar bracket.  I bought this car new and with the emissions in 73 it had less than 200 hp, hope to at least double that number!  Always wanted it as a 4 speed so thus the conversion.  Funny thing, I paid $4100 for this car new and I spent $5200 just for the motor, inflation!!!  Again thanks for your help!!

W1,

I am converting from C6 to a toploader. I’m having difficulty with installing the Z bar. The brackets are correct. The aftermarket Z bar came with a 1/4” thick felt washer to act as a seal between the z bar and the bracket that mounts to the frame of the car. 

I purchased a nylon bushing and felt washer that installs on the bracket that mounts to the bell housing. This felt washer is about 5/8” thick. 

It it was difficult to get the Z bar installed. Upon completion, the 5/8” felt washer on the bell housing bracket had been smashed to the extent that 80% of the felt was inside of the z bar, and the remainder pinched between the bar and bracket. 

Moving the z bar back and forth by hand took quite a bit of effort. The z bar certainly feels too tight. 

What was was the configuration of your felt washers, and thicknesses?

thanks