Need new wiring relay thingy

[73vertproject]

I took a detour to freshen up the wiring around the solenoid and such since the hood is still off. I promptly broke this thing that I don't know the name for. Anyone have an extra laying around?





I just need the part that has the two ears on it that bolt into the fender apron. Or the whole thing. Please let me know if you've got one or if they're available, what the name is.

Thanks!

 

[marks73]

That ammeter block is not repoped and there were several threads obout other cars that had them. I'll try to find the post.

Found it

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-ammeter-block?highlight=terminal+block

 

[73vertproject]

Thanks, Marks73. That helps a lot. I found the correct term is a Block Junction Assembly, NOS part number D0SZ-14448-A. So far I've found one for $24.08 (reasonable) with cheapest UPS ground offered for $18.00 (outrageous).

So if anyone has a line on a D0SZ-14448-A including delivery for less than $30, give me a shout.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I think I have one for a 69 laying around, it looks different, but would likely work the same. Let me know if it would help.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80112?seid=google&gclid=CLKFuKWPtrYCFQHznAodlmgAgw

Looks much closer to the original than the one I have

 

[matrixx]

I don't mean to hijack your thread or anything but, i have a simple question, i notice every once and a while my voltage regulator starts buzzing and all kinds ov wierd stuff goes on. Engine runs like junk, the ALT light stays on even with the key out, lights and turn signals look like an EMS ambulance and start going all wacky. Then i shut it off and wait, start it back up and it all works fine. Should i Just replace the regulator? last i checked the running voltage at battery was around 15.2 wich i thought was a little high, but i left my meter on and need to get a new battery to recheck.

On Topic: My car does not have that block that you guys seem to have, maybe the 302 was set up different?

 

[TommyK]

http://www.npdlink.com/store/products/14448_1-102051-451.html

Don may have it as well.

Edit: oops says unavailable at NPD

 

[whitesoc]

I ordered on for my car from NPD.....think it was $19 at the time.....

 

[midlife]

I don't mean to hijack your thread or anything but, i have a simple question, i notice every once and a while my voltage regulator starts buzzing and all kinds ov wierd stuff goes on. Engine runs like junk, the ALT light stays on even with the key out, lights and turn signals look like an EMS ambulance and start going all wacky. Then i shut it off and wait, start it back up and it all works fine. Should i Just replace the regulator? last i checked the running voltage at battery was around 15.2 wich i thought was a little high, but i left my meter on and need to get a new battery to recheck.

On Topic: My car does not have that block that you guys seem to have, maybe the 302 was set up different?

You are overcharging the battery, and it could explode. Please replace the voltage regulator and then have a local auto parts store check your charging system to be sure everything is working correctly.

 

[mach1daddy]

Jumping in on this oooooold thread, just to hear what worked out for you guys...

My junction block cracked in an attempt to disconnect it, and Iv'e found one (not original) at my local dealer....

My question is, does the original ammeter in the car need that little insanely rusty box to work? Or can I throw it after a chevy?

My ammeter never worked anyway, so I wouldn't know the difference...

 

[midlife]

Yeah, it is needed, but for another reason (which I just figured out a few days ago). What was screwy in my mind is that there is a fusible link from the starter solenoid to the main headlight harness for power, and a tap into that line below the fusible link junction that goes to that strange junction block. It appears that the alternator power goes to that junction block as well, so what was the purpose of the fusible link? If the link broke, the car would still run off of the alternator, and really not protect the car from a massive power short.

Aha! I figured it out: the fusible link is not there to protect the main power line short, but a short to the battery! If the voltage regulator goes, it is possible for the alternator to send more current to the battery via the junction block and fusible link; the fusible link protects the battery from overcurrent.

Not all cars had the junction block but all had the fusible link, so that may not be the whole story. It also may be there because of the ammeter lines are not fused and can easily short. The fusible link may keep that from happening.

Long story short: Ford designed things for a particular reason. Do you really want to take a chance of not following their guidance and knowledge? I know I wouldn't.