non adjustable to roller rocker?

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

slawnugget

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2011
Messages
24
Reaction score
0
Location
memphis
My Car
72 mach one
well i thought i had an exhaust leak, but it turns out i got 2 loose lifters? and since theyre not adjustable im gonna need to replace and might as well go roller right? the car is a 351c with 4v heads. whats yalls recommendation? from what ive read ill need this? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-52655-16/overview/make/ford also what rockers do yall recommend. i see several people using harland sharps but its all foreign to me.

 
+1 on the guide plates, also I found a set of studs from another brand of car that fit perfect and gave me the added length for my roller rockers much cheaper off the shelf, and second be sure when you assemble that your push rods are the right length to center your roller on the valve stem, you dont want it rolling off the edge of the stem. I had to get .50 shorter for mine but that all goes with your cam and rocker specs. Please be aware I'm talking about a 460

 
It depends on cam specs and intended use. With a reasonable flat tappet hydraulic cam the bolt down will work IF you get pushrod length and lifter preload right. Any American made roller rocker will work for reasonable street use. One source is http://www.scorpionracingproducts.com

If you are going to a roller cam and want to maximize the benefits of going to a roller (aggressive ramps/profiles), I'd suggest converting to adjustable valve train. I'd first find out what caused the slack in the lifters. If you lost .030-.040 (normal hydraulic lifter preload) it may be the cam lobes are gone. If so, you may be looking at more than a cam, springs, rocker, pushrod change. Chuck

 
I'd first ask myself the question... WHY did the rockers come loose?

Is the rocker actually loose, or are the lifter/cam lobes shot on each?

Bent pushrod(s)?

Pushrod eat into the rocker, possibly due to oil starvation?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Last edited by a moderator:
Man thanks for all the replys. The car sat up for a few years being very neglected. I ordered the Harland sharps, mechanic is going through everything hopefully it's nothing major. The motor probably doesn't have 5000 miles on it since built in 2000.

 
Man thanks for all the replys. The car sat up for a few years being very neglected. I ordered the Harland sharps, mechanic is going through everything hopefully it's nothing major. The motor probably doesn't have 5000 miles on it since built in 2000.
0. Determine why the rockers are loose. Especially with the low miles.

1. Harland Sharps will require studs, so you have to have rocker holes drilled and tapped.

2. I think Harland offers a 3/8 or a 7/16 size for the 1.73 ratio. Make sure you get a match before you drill.

3. If you haven't drilled yet, you can get Ford Motorsport adjustable roller rockers for $340 + s/h that will go on your existing pedestals. There is an adjustment on the pushrod side. Don't have them yet so cannot vouch for anything other than they are stamped/engraved Ford.

4. See step 0.

 
The motor probably doesn't have 5000 miles on it since built in 2000.
Ding ding ding...

My bet: cam.

Been there.

 
I did order the guide plate conversion also for the rockers. What's the best way to check the cam? I figure with the price of cams if I had to pull it it would be best to replace? I'm having a mechanic work on it, and I live 3 hours from where the car is. Sooooo I have to do the trust thing while it's in the shop. Mechanic said its runnin smooth, idling nice, just that tapping. Would a bad cam have any noticeable problems without tearing into it?

 
I did order the guide plate conversion also for the rockers. What's the best way to check the cam? I figure with the price of cams if I had to pull it it would be best to replace? I'm having a mechanic work on it, and I live 3 hours from where the car is. Sooooo I have to do the trust thing while it's in the shop. Mechanic said its runnin smooth, idling nice, just that tapping. Would a bad cam have any noticeable problems without tearing into it?
I don't think:

1. Checking the lift at the rocker.

2. Removing a rocker arm and pulling the pushrod out is considered "tearing into it".

If you have a way to get the lifters out(and I believe there is a way), you may not have to pull the intake to change the cam. But I will leave that positive thinking to the gentlemen who have swapped a cam.

Maybe a bad lifter, as in lifter stuck closed.

 
This may seem lame but I've used marvel mystery oil in the crankcase just long enough to free up a stuck lifter with very good results, if that's what the problem is. It is very hard to troubleshoot over the internet though.

 
Pop for the intake gaskets and pull it to check the lifter/cam lobe surfaces.

Gaskets are very cheap compared to the rest of the engine. The peace of mind will be worth it.

Worn cam lobes cannot be reversed or "fixed" with a new lifter. They are either good, or bad.

If you can't trust the mechanic to do this, you need another mechanic.

Also, the cam cannot be changed without pulling the intake.

Click here:

http://www.manoian.net/jeep/images/bad_cam.jpg

 
+1 on the guide plates, also I found a set of studs from another brand of car that fit perfect and gave me the added length for my roller rockers much cheaper off the shelf, and second be sure when you assemble that your push rods are the right length to center your roller on the valve stem, you dont want it rolling off the edge of the stem. I had to get .50 shorter for mine but that all goes with your cam and rocker specs. Please be aware I'm talking about a 460
Pappy you are allowed to say CHEVY. At least they do make a good rocker for adjustables.That's what I'm going to use on my rollers. Cheap yet strong and just the right size!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top