Oil pan replacement.

[California 72]

Good afternoon fellow 71-73er's!
This is just like deja vu all over again. I swear I already posted a thread on Saturday.
Anyhow, pulled the trigger on a new pan, purchased it from Top Flight Automotive and it's listed as a "First Generation 1970-1973 Ford Mustang 351C oil pan - Dynacorn".

First off, does anyone have experience with this pan? Quality/fitment comments?

Secondly, the pan pictured in the description has a baffle in the bottom well so, I'm guessing this was for the 4V motors? Will I need to change the pick-up, pump or both being mine is of the 2V variety?
Someone already mentioned this place is a wealth of knowledge and I do agree but add that, with all I'm learning, I need more wealth to use the knowledge. lol. It seems that every step of this project lately has more than the just two purchases I believed were needed. UGGHH!!!!

 

[Hemikiller]

Same pickup for all 351C engines, so the baffled pan will fit fine. That pan is hard to beat for the money.

 

[California 72]

Same pickup for all 351C engines, so the baffled pan will fit fine. That pan is hard to beat for the money.

Was hoping you'd say that. Kinda thought that myself after looking around other options.

 

[Spike Morelli]

When using an "aftermarket" oil pan, not a Ford Motor Company original pan, you may run into some minor fitment issues. These are common, as the pan is likely stamped in China. Where I've found discrepancies, is there may be some pan rail holes not quite lining up. The very first thing to be sure of, is to chase all of the bolt threaded holes in the block's pan rail. With the exception of the very end bolts which are 5/16ths, the pan rails have small 1/4" bolts and these can bind and snap when forced into a bad thread, so chase those pan bolt holes first. Then there is the pan fitment, which can sometimes have bolt holes slightly off when using an aftermarket pan. Test fit prior to installing. Sometimes a small rat tail file can be used to elongate a pan hole over a bit, and sometimes using a long drift, or rod, or Phillips screwdriver through the pan hole into the block threaded hole can be used to coax the pan rail over as you install the bolt next to the hole you're prying over. if you've worked with repro parts before, then you know how they can be so close, yet need some finessing to make fit right. Factory pans are never a problem. Most custom racing oil pans are welded up bolted down to a fixture, so they should not present any fitment issues.

 

[California 72]

When using an "aftermarket" oil pan, not a Ford Motor Company original pan, you may run into some minor fitment issues. These are common, as the pan is likely stamped in China. Where I've found discrepancies, is there may be some pan rail holes not quite lining up. The very first thing to be sure of, is to chase all of the bolt threaded holes in the block's pan rail. With the exception of the very end bolts which are 5/16ths, the pan rails have small 1/4" bolts and these can bind and snap when forced into a bad thread, so chase those pan bolt holes first. Then there is the pan fitment, which can sometimes have bolt holes slightly off when using an aftermarket pan. Test fit prior to installing. Sometimes a small rat tail file can be used to elongate a pan hole over a bit, and sometimes using a long drift, or rod, or Phillips screwdriver through the pan hole into the block threaded hole can be used to coax the pan rail over as you install the bolt next to the hole you're prying over. if you've worked with repro parts before, then you know how they can be so close, yet need some finessing to make fit right. Factory pans are never a problem. Most custom racing oil pans are welded up bolted down to a fixture, so they should not present any fitment issues.

Believe it or not, the description on the Top Flight website explained it was manufactured in the USA. That was one of my first identifiers. I actually tried to confirm who was making them for Dynacorn but came up empty handed. I was actually hoping for Daniel Carpenter given what I have purchased from him, and his brother(?) Dennis, when I had my F100, nothing needed modification. It was almost as if I went to the Ford dealer and bought the parts.
Thanks for the info on the bolt holes. Like you mentioned, I have found issues with other parts and that was on my mind already.
My remedy was going to be using studs screwed into the block at key points. This was because of "The Great Valve Cover Gasket Fire of 2021" when one of those non-cork, neoprene type gaskets I was sold, folded under and didn't hit all the bolts. It wasn't caught until after I took it out for a drive. No issues under idle, in the garage, but once I stood on it, that's when all hell broke loose. Just barely got to the garage and an extinguisher. A block further away, car would have been toast.
Anyhow, I thought of using the same method to align the pan and avoid any fights with the gasket while working from the bottom side of the car. More frustrating under the car for me.

 

[rcadd1ct]

This is the one I went with

https://www.hedman.com/product-detail/1175

Doesn’t hang lower than stock. Cleared the crossmember and holds an additional 2qts.

Whatever you put on make sure you dry fit and measure for pickup to pan clearance.