Oil pump shaft drama

[tony-muscle]

So I am in the process of replacing my oil pan. I got this race oil pan that I modified extensively, but that will be a story for another day. In any case I spent a ton of time installing this pan with crank spacers all with the engine in the car. It is a two step process because you have to first get the crank scrapers under the block with RTV and once it sets you sandwich it with the oil pan and another layer of RTV. So I stayed super late last night, got it all in place, got the oil pump and all looked good. This morning I woke up and realized that I "F" forgot to insert the oil pump drive shaft. Sure, I can undo the whole thing which will set me back a lot since removing two layers of RTV is not going to be fun. But, is there another way to get the shaft in at this time? I know you can get it from the distributor hole down but it wont have the lock washer to prevent a disaster later. I think I know what the answer is, but I am asking here just in case someone had figured a way of getting the shaft in correctly with the lock ring in place when the oil pan is in place. I have added some vent ports to the oil pan and I was thinking that I may be able to perform endoscopic surgery to get the lock ring in place but I think this is a far fetch option. Any thoughts?

PS: I already feel dumb about this so no need to remind me of that

 

[Sheriff41]

You already know what you need to do . In the military we used to say, better to sweat now than to bleed later.

 

[c9zx]

Why did you need "crank spacers"? What are you using for end seals on the pan? Chuck

 

[tony-muscle]

Why did you need "crank spacers"? What are you using for end seals on the pan? Chuck

That goes to show that I need some sleep. I meant crank scrapers. For end seals I am using the actual seals from a gasket kit, but not using the gasket itself. I wonder if I could reuse the end seals or I need to get new ones?

https://www.crank-scrapers.com/

 

[Sheriff41]

That goes to show that I need some sleep. I meant crank scrapers. For end seals I am using the actual seals from a gasket kit, but not using the gasket itself. I wonder if I could reuse the end seals or I need to get new ones?

https://www.crank-scrapers.com/

It's great they worked with you on the scrapers. I'm interested to hear your perspective once you've run them.

 

[Steve McMahan]

I think everyone of us have done this, we’re just not dumb enough to admit it. All kidding aside, and this memory is from the early 1980’s, I remember a guy who had i think a Pro Mod Pinto, he pulled his distributor and it had the pump shaft I think keyed to the distributor gear. Just another way to do it. I think you’re just gonna have to start over. That sucks.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

Tony, use the "Heavy duty" ARP or Milodon, etc drive shaft which is much heavier then the stock shaft. When you need to pull the distributor in the future, simply lift the distributor about 1/8" or so off the block, rotate the rotor back and forth and tap the distributor several times with a wrench or other light tool. The drive shaft will remain seated in the oil pump receiver socket vs stuck in the distributor, then simply pull the distributor out. I forgot to put the lock washer on my 351c Maverick's distributor shaft several years ago and have since removed it's distributor countless times with the above procedure, 100% success.

 

[MAD IRISHMAN]

For years I never used the lock washer on the pump shaft on my engines. I just always "finessed" the shaft down the distributor hole into the pump with a telescoping magnet. Once you have the shaft in the hex at the pump you just laterally slide the magnet off to the side. Once you put the distributor back in, there is no place for the shaft to go. The lock washer is simply a way to keep the shaft in the pump when the engine is upside down. You don't really need it.

 

[tony-muscle]

Tonight I tackle removing the oil pan before the RTV completely sets. Just don't want to deal with the possibility of the shaft falling. If it happens it will probaly be somewhere in the middle of nowhere when replacing the distributor. Wisconsin was having a terrible time playing in their NCAA game so anyways the garage was more relaxing than watching the game. I spent some time cleaning but I will retackle the cleaning after I am back. Here is a pic of the scrapers and my modified oil pan (sorry for the amateur work on the mesh but like always, functionality over looks!).

 

[c9zx]

That goes to show that I need some sleep. I meant crank scrapers. For end seals I am using the actual seals from a gasket kit, but not using the gasket itself. I wonder if I could reuse the end seals or I need to get new ones?

https://www.crank-scrapers.com/

I have reused when in a pinch without a problem. I have thrown away the last two sets of Fuel-Pro end seals as they were too wide front to back. Now using Victor-Reintz (sp) or Mahle depending on what is available. Good luck with the install. Chuck

 

[tony-muscle]

I have reused when in a pinch without a problem. I have thrown away the last two sets of Fuel-Pro end seals as they were too wide front to back. Now using Victor-Reintz (sp) or Mahle depending on what is available. Good luck with the install. Chuck

Definitely will reuse them. They were in place for only 20 hours so they look like new. These were Cometic and fit well. It was an expensive gasket but only using the end seals because with the scrapers i cant use one. I think I had another set from Mr Gasket but the end seals were too long as well.

 

[c9zx]

Tony, use the "Heavy duty" ARP or Milodon, etc drive shaft which is much heavier then the stock shaft. When you need to pull the distributor in the future, simply lift the distributor about 1/8" or so off the block, rotate the rotor back and forth and tap the distributor several times with a wrench or other light tool. The drive shaft will remain seated in the oil pump receiver socket vs stuck in the distributor, then simply pull the distributor out. I forgot to put the lock washer on my 351c Maverick's distributor shaft several years ago and have since removed it's distributor countless times with the above procedure, 100% success.

I want to see pictures of the 351C Maverick!

 

[imjameswith71Mustang]

Definitely will reuse them. They were in place for only 20 hours so they look like new. These were Cometic and fit well. It was an expensive gasket but only using the end seals because with the scrapers i cant use one. I think I had another set from Mr Gasket but the end seals were too long as well.

it sounds like you already removed the pan huh? I installed the pump on the 351C without the shaft at all and or without the lock thing now I can't remember which one, and I took down the pump no big deal because the pan was not on yet. I used pipe dope on the pump threads by the way because supposedly it helps seal the threads better and seals no matter oil and temperatures. As for the lock ring or washer, it really only matters as someone mentioned were the engine to be upside down, so it does not fall out, or were it want to come up with the distributor. If it had been my install I would have left it as is because time is valuable, but I understand wanting things to be "perfect". Whenever you re-insert the distributor, you have to wiggle it a little regardless and be careful that the camshaft gears line up in such as way that the distributor gear will drop and mesh into them.