One-piece Valves

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Doc - resist the temptation to simply toss out everything you just upgraded. You're not 'racing' this car, per se - so stick with the 2V and just get a new set of valves if it REALLY bugs you.

You haven't even broken everything in from the rebuild yet, for Pete's sake.

 
Doc - resist the temptation to simply toss out everything you just upgraded. You're not 'racing' this car, per se - so stick with the 2V and just get a new set of valves if it REALLY bugs you.

You haven't even broken everything in from the rebuild yet, for Pete's sake.
That makes a lot of sense, Eric. So I'm going to drive sanely, get the SS one-piece valves and such that Jeff posted up, and just replace the valves. I'm very happy with the power that I've got now, and with the 3.50 Trakloc, I think I'll have plenty of fun.

Thanks for everyone's input!

 
Do they even sell 2 piece valves anymore? If so why would anyone install them when you consider the scheme of things the savings can't be worth the trade off?

Great thread, I'm reading with alot of interests since I'll be swapping out my 2V heads to put 4V's back on it (previous owner removed 4V heads replaced with 2 V heads), since I have ramair the correct height intake is critical, currently using a Performer 2750 intake withno height issues. Like to find a bare pair of 4V's time period correct for 71 351C M Code assembled 12/70.

 
Do they even sell 2 piece valves anymore? If so why would anyone install them when you consider the scheme of things the savings can't be worth the trade off?

Great thread, I'm reading with alot of interests since I'll be swapping out my 2V heads to put 4V's back on it (previous owner removed 4V heads replaced with 2 V heads), since I have ramair the correct height intake is critical, currently using a Performer 2750 intake withno height issues. Like to find a bare pair of 4V's time period correct for 71 351C M Code assembled 12/70.
I also have a set of 0J2's complete set

 
Doc - resist the temptation to simply toss out everything you just upgraded. You're not 'racing' this car, per se - so stick with the 2V and just get a new set of valves if it REALLY bugs you.

You haven't even broken everything in from the rebuild yet, for Pete's sake.
That makes a lot of sense, Eric. So I'm going to drive sanely, get the SS one-piece valves and such that Jeff posted up, and just replace the valves. I'm very happy with the power that I've got now, and with the 3.50 Trakloc, I think I'll have plenty of fun.

Thanks for everyone's input!
I just hope your machine shop takes less time that mine does, since when you pull the heads for the new valves, springs, keepers, etc., they'll need to match the seal angles (basically do a complete valve job). If you didn't already have them do it, might as well get a set of hardened valve seats installed as well (since our gas is no longer 'leaded').

I do also agree with the sentiment of port & polish (while you have the heads off, why not?). If you're going to all that trouble, pull the headers and intake at the same time, and have 'em all matched up (gonna hafta replace all those gaskets anyway).

I guess the big question is: when and for how long do you want to park your car again? ;)

 
I also have a set of 0J2's complete set

OK Don, I goggled long enough so have to break down and ask, what are OJ2's?

Jim

Jim

closed chamber heads with 0J2 casting number

0 = year, J = month, 2 = day

1970 - October 2nd

 
I guess the big question is: when and for how long do you want to park your car again? ;)
I know, right? I've had about as much fun as I can take in the engine rebuilding department. This time I'm going to drive her to the shop, and pick her up when she's done, knowing I'll need to bring a sack full of cash when I do. :dodgy:

 
I guess the big question is: when and for how long do you want to park your car again? ;)
I know, right? I've had about as much fun as I can take in the engine rebuilding department. This time I'm going to drive her to the shop, and pick her up when she's done, knowing I'll need to bring a sack full of cash when I do. :dodgy:

by the way, I drove on the street and raced at the track my first cleveland motor for 2 years on the 2 piece valves and nothing happened.

I would drive and enjoy the car if you just finished rebuilding it and are not planning on racing. Some spirited street driving should be fine
 
Thanks, Jorge. That settles my stomach a bit more. It took some research on my part to find first-hand accounts of two-piece valve failure, and they were under pretty hairy performance-proving conditions. As I looked at the engine as I disassembled it, I found mostly tired, high mileage, well-cared for wear on the parts. No stomped on, full-throttle indications that it had been abused at all. With the solid rebuild I did (and my Nervous Nelly cautiousness), I'm feeling better about a few burnouts and such before I need to yank the heads. What a difference 24 hours makes... :p

 
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