PICS-END RESULT OF DENT REMOVAL

[Qcode351mach]

Here's some pics of the end result of using the tools & techniques I posted up for you guys on how to repair a dent, using the three tools I showed you..Stud welder..contour gauge..& shrinking disc..I think we are talking maybe a 1/16" of filler if that.

 

[M Beauchamp]

Well Q I got step one finished

Step #1 buy profile gauge!

hopefully my stuff will turn out as nice

 

[Qcode351mach]

Well Q I got step one finished

Step #1 buy profile gauge!

hopefully my stuff will turn out as nice

Cool M..You are gonna love that profile gauge. just practice on a spare door fender etc. till you get the hang of it...

 

[MeZapU]

I discovered AFS sanders recently. They are magical IMO saving so much time and effort. I don't think I could progress on my 66 F-100 without them.

http://adjustablesander.com/adjustflexsand/AFS_Sanders_Home_Page/AFS_Home.html

 

[Qcode351mach]

I discovered AFS sanders recently. They are magical IMO saving so much time and effort. I don't think I could progress on my 66 F-100 without them.

http://adjustablesander.com/adjustflexsand/AFS_Sanders_Home_Page/AFS_Home.html

I have seen those..I can't remember the last time I picked up used a commercially available sanding block. I never liked or used them for any of my finish work..I've always made my own. I've made some as long as 36" The key to wave free finishes is multiple coats of primer in different colors & using a guide coat. I may give them a try though looks like the right thing

 

[Don65Stang]

Scott, Thank you for taking time to share your tips and tricks! I greatly appreciate you for this.

Would the same principals apply to the heavier gauge metal such as the rocker panels? I have a 4" long by 1" deep dent in a rocker panel. It looks intimidating. The other option I am considering is to cut out a patch panel from my parts car and welding that piece as the repair method.

I don't have the 3 tools you mentioned yet but plan on getting them at some point when I get serious about the exterior body work.

 

[Qcode351mach]

Scott, Thank you for taking time to share your tips and tricks! I greatly appreciate you for this.

Would the same principals apply to the heavier gauge metal such as the rocker panels? I have a 4" long by 1" deep dent in a rocker panel. It looks intimidating. The other option I am considering is to cut out a patch panel from my parts car and welding that piece as the repair method.

I don't have the 3 tools you mentioned yet but plan on getting them at some point when I get serious about the exterior body work.

Thanks Don..Yes it will work just fine on the rocker..You didn't listen to what I said about REPAIRING ANY DAMAGE FIRST !! Before doing a section or patch panel..Harbor freight has the best price on the stud welder & it will do the job just fine http://www.harborfreight.com/stud-welder-dent-repair-kit-98357.html What you may need to do for the rocker is put a few studs on then use this clamp http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-19092-dent-fix-equipment-df4.aspx

Get the car outside.. use a come-a-long tied to tree at the correct height..then pull using the come along..I don't think you will need this but if you find that the pull hammer isn't cutting it this how you would do it. Just make sure to pull from the area of LEAST damage first & work your way down to the area of the most damage or deepest dent. If your other rocker is good then use the contour gauge to get your profile shape so when your pulling you can match it right up !Post up some pics for us when you give it a go

 

[MeZapU]

I wasted so much time and materials trying to get the roof on my 66-F-100 looking good. After the hammer and dolly work, there is more Duraglass and filler than I care to admit. But whats a guy to do? I used the 15" and 4.5" AFS sanders. Thinking of buying a longer one before I tackle the bed.

Original pics of the roof for reference.

 

[Qcode351mach]

I wasted so much time and materials trying to get the roof on my 66-F-100 looking good. After the hammer and dolly work, there is more Duraglass and filler than I care to admit. But whats a guy to do? I used the 15" and 4.5" AFS sanders. Thinking of buying a longer one before I tackle the bed.

Duraglass:huh:

On a roof :huh:

Don't leave it in the sun on a hot summer day...Your done ..I'd fix that NOW before you invest in paint..& I'm not going to debate it with you..No matter what you say about it. WRONG WRONG WRONG..Throw that stuff in the trash...Its your car so do what you want..It's going to suck..But get a shrinking disc, Stud welder & fix it right ESPECIALLY on a roof ! Your gonna thank me !

 

[Don65Stang]

Scott, Thank you for taking time to share your tips and tricks! I greatly appreciate you for this.

Would the same principals apply to the heavier gauge metal such as the rocker panels? I have a 4" long by 1" deep dent in a rocker panel. It looks intimidating. The other option I am considering is to cut out a patch panel from my parts car and welding that piece as the repair method.

I don't have the 3 tools you mentioned yet but plan on getting them at some point when I get serious about the exterior body work.

Thanks Don..Yes it will work just fine on the rocker..You didn't listen to what I said about REPAIRING ANY DAMAGE FIRST !! Before doing a section or patch panel..Harbor freight has the best price on the stud welder & it will do the job just fine http://www.harborfreight.com/stud-welder-dent-repair-kit-98357.html What you may need to do for the rocker is put a few studs on then use this clamp http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-19092-dent-fix-equipment-df4.aspx

Get the car outside.. use a come-a-long tied to tree at the correct height..then pull using the come along..I don't think you will need this but if you find that the pull hammer isn't cutting it this how you would do it. Just make sure to pull from the area of LEAST damage first & work your way down to the area of the most damage or deepest dent. If your other rocker is good then use the contour gauge to get your profile shape so when your pulling you can match it right up !Post up some pics for us when you give it a go

Very good. I haven't repaired any damage yet. Per what I have understood from your various posts, I think your recommended repair plan for my car would be floors first, cowl next, left rear frame rail, then various rust repair on the body, then body work/block sanding & paint. After final paint the engine & tranny reinstalled. Is this the correct order?

 

[Qcode351mach]

Very good. I haven't repaired any damage yet. Per what I have understood from your various posts, I think your recommended repair plan for my car would be floors first, cowl next, left rear frame rail, then various rust repair on the body, then body work/block sanding & paint. After final paint the engine & tranny reinstalled. Is this the correct order?

Don,

Thats going to depend since some of the repair operations will overlap into the others. such as if your doing a rear frame rail, the trunk floor would overlap into that repair (you can't do the floor without first replacing the rail) Same thing with the floors..if you need any repairs to the rear or front torque boxes that needs to be done first before the floors..But overall I think you have it down

 

[Don65Stang]

I think my torque boxes are ok but I'll know better after I get into it. I'll let you know. Sorry for hijacking your thread.