PoFoMoCo's 1971 Shelby Europa build October 2022

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Making my way through the Shelby Cal 500 aluminum wheel restoration. I started the restoration with the wheel needing the most work. I have a set of plasti-chrome wheel caps, but I am still looking for a set of original wheel caps. The Shelby Cobra blue, red and silver 3D cap emblem was custom made by a Belgium company, the quality is top notch!

The first photos are the wheel going thru 80, 120 and 220 grit sanding. I polished the wheel with Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish, using a polishing ball and drill. I buffed the wheel with a regular buff pad. Check out the difference when compared to an unrestored. wheel!
 

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Making my way through the Shelby Cal 500 aluminum wheel restoration. I started the restoration with the wheel needing the most work. I have a set of plasti-chrome wheel caps, but I am still looking for a set of original wheel caps. The Shelby Cobra blue, red and silver 3D cap emblem was custom made by a Belgium company, the quality is top notch!

The first photos are the wheel going thru 80, 120 and 220 grit sanding. I polished the wheel with Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish, using a polishing ball and drill. I buffed the wheel with a regular buff pad. Check out the difference when compared to an unrestored. wheel!
What was you final sand paper grit before bufing? When I did my 73 mags I went up to 1,000. Also used 6" drill attachment disk to have directional scratches instead of orbital irregular scratches.
 

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I finished with 800grit paper. When I finish the last wheel today I may hit them with 0000 steel wool. I’m still going thru some forums on using steel wool on aluminum wheels. There are allot of mixed posts.

Your wheel looks very nice.
 
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I finished with 800grit paper. When I finish the last wheel today I may hit them with 0000 steel wool. I’m still going thru some forums on using steel wool on aluminum wheels. There are allot of mixed posts.

You’re wheel looks very nice.
I tried steel wool, the outside edge of the rim in the picture above was hit with steel wool and then just hand polished - to give directional texture...trial before final finish.
I felt it might be extra work to use steel wool, as you have to be work it with light pressure evenly though the wheel. Otherwise you will see lighter and deper texture after polishing. So I end.up.just going with 1,000grit and then powerbal polishing with aluminum polish to smooth.
 
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Your aluminum wheel does look great and the attention to detail shows thru in the final result. I am a huge fan!

I may use your technique to knock down the chrome bright shine on my wheel caps for a more “brushed” look.
 
Not to be too critical, but as far as my memory goes, Canadian Fram made ALL the vacuum motors of this style for Chrysler and Ford. The exception being the finish. Again as I recall, Ford vacuum motors were cadmium finish and Chrysler were dichromate.
When I did mine, I use Eastwood Cadmium paint. Also, I'm sort of surprised the hook length and orientation fitted the inlet tube (aka snorkel).
Other than that, awesome job.
Do you have a new heat riser tube, assuming you car had one?
 

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Your aluminum wheel does look great and the attention to detail shows thru in the final result. I am a huge fan!

I may use your technique to knock down the chrome bright shine on my wheel caps for a more “brushed” look.
Back and forth is a no no for steel wool. It digs into the metal at the stopping points more then you know.
If I wanted to do it again, I would finish with 1,000 grit, mount wheel on the front of the car, have someone spin it as I steel wool it. Polish by hand because powerbal will make it shiny in some places to much (in places where you put too much pressure).
 
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Not to be too critical, but as far as my memory goes, Canadian Fram made ALL the vacuum motors of this style for Chrysler and Ford. The exception being the finish. Again as I recall, Ford vacuum motors were cadmium finish and Chrysler were dichromate.
When I did mine, I use Eastwood Cadmium paint. Also, I'm sort of surprised the hook length and orientation fitted the inlet tube (aka snorkel).
Other than that, awesome job.
Do you have a new heat riser tube, assuming you car had one?
Thanks Geoff... I'm sure you are correct about the color of the vacuum motor and your air cleaner assembly setup with the Eastwood Cadmium painted vacuum motor looks great. I am using Dr. Harvima's car as a go-by, so I went with Ford blue. Although his painted parts are a lighter shade of blue, I'm in the ballpark. :cool:

No sir I don't have the heat riser tube, I'm running headers for now.

71 Shelby Europa engine.jpg
 
... Polish by hand because powerball will make it shiny in some places to much (in places where you put too much pressure).
I tried to go easy pressure with the wheel polisher, as I noticed that as well. I also used a‎ synthetic wool 5" Bosh buffing disc on my orbit sander for my final phase. They are definitely not perfect but luckily I didn't have allot of swirl marks in mine.

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This is the sandpaper wheel I used (from Napa) stick on surface for sandpaper with adhesive.
Sanding wheel has foam, so I was able to do concave surface of the wheel.
 

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I tried to go easy pressure with the wheel polisher, as I noticed that as well. I also used a‎ synthetic wool 5" Bosh buffing disc on my orbit sander for my final phase. They are definitely not perfect but luckily I didn't have allot of swirl marks in mine.

View attachment 73738
They look really nice.
 
Thanks Geoff... I'm sure you are correct about the color of the vacuum motor and your air cleaner assembly setup with the Eastwood Cadmium painted vacuum motor looks great. I am using Dr. Harvima's car as a go-by, so I went with Ford blue. Although his painted parts are a lighter shade of blue, I'm in the ballpark. :cool:

No sir I don't have the heat riser tube, I'm running headers for now.

View attachment 73737
It is so nice to see a real car engine and being able to see the parts. That one is looking very nice.
 
Thanks Geoff... I'm sure you are correct about the color of the vacuum motor and your air cleaner assembly setup with the Eastwood Cadmium painted vacuum motor looks great. I am using Dr. Harvima's car as a go-by, so I went with Ford blue. Although his painted parts are a lighter shade of blue, I'm in the ballpark. :cool:

No sir I don't have the heat riser tube, I'm running headers for now.

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No idea who this person is, or for that matter, if a 71 Shelby Europa was painted in the earlier lighter blue. However it's your car, your way. It will look great and very satisfying to all who see it.
 
It is so nice to see a real car engine and being able to see the parts. That one is looking very nice.
This is a photo of the engine compartment of Dr. Harvima's original medium brown metallic Shelby Europa GT500 convertible. I am using his car as the example to build my Europa. Dr. Harvima owns both of the original Europa convertibles, there were only 2 ordered and delivered. The original convertibles were imported to Europe by Claude Dubois, he was the official Shelby dealer in Belgium from 1969 thru 1972.

Dr. Harvima is a member on this site.
 
This is a photo of the engine compartment of Dr. Harvima's original medium brown metallic Shelby Europa GT500 convertible. I am using his car as the example to build my Europa. Dr. Harvima owns both of the original Europa convertibles, there were only 2 ordered and delivered. The original convertibles were imported to Europe by Claude Dubois, he was the official Shelby dealer in Belgium from 1969 thru 1972.

Dr. Harvima is a member on this site.
I see, thanks for the info.
 
I see, thanks for the info.
Absolutely. Having a tribute car or "clone"..... it's such a tricky subject and it can easily come across wrong. I am very careful to include Dr. Harvima's information when I reference his car and his pictures to make sure it doesn't sound like I'm trying to be deceptive or claim them as mine.
 
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