Prep prior to paint.

[California 72]

Using VHT chassis paint, they say that it doesn’t need primer and understanding the curing process for their paint is more chemical that evaporative, there’s a specific primer needed.

I am watching budget not regardless of the added work but rather because of it.

The primer isn’t inexpensive so I’m following their claims and skipping it. This has created a couple questions.

As far as prep, I’m trying to remove as much rust, both surface and deep. So, as things get cleaned flash rust appears.

Immediately prior to paint, everything will be wiped down with acetone. Is the flash rust able to be covered directly with the Chassis paint.

As far as other, more unreachable places like recessions and creases, I’m brushing on rust converter so, does that require any special prep?

Thanks with your help here as well.

 

[Don C]

I am using Rust-oleum Rust Reformer on places that are easily accessible, it is both a rust converter and a primer.

On less accessible places I am using Eastwood Internal Frame Coating, it also converts rust and coats it. It comes with both a regular spray nozzle and a flexible tube that has a spray nozzle and allows the inside of enclosed areas to be coated, like the A pillar, the crash frame inside the door, inside the kick panel areas, several nooks and crannies in the fenders and doors, rocker panels, cowl and so on. They both cost more than regular primers, but less than epoxy.

 

[California 72]

Internal frame coating. That’s what I was trying to think of when I was searching. So it worked good? I’m more curious about coverage at the point. I believe we’re sharp enough to realize you can’t see in some of these spaces so, does it apply well?
I’m messing with the cowling right now and at some point in its life, probably when it was last repainted, they spread a sealer paste and just painted over when cured instead of cleaning and prepping better.
When you start asking the questions, it starts to sink in how much work starts to appear the deeper we look.
Thanks for the info.

 

[MikeGriese]

I'm cringing a little, but that's my problem.

You are putting a LOT of time and money into this project. Skipping a fundamental step like proper paint preparation is kinda self defeating in the long run.

Also, I would recommend following the manufacturer's directions when it comes to their coatings. They really do know their stuff. If they support skipping primer, then I say go for it. If they don't, sit down with a beverage of choice and stare at the car a good long while before coming to a decision.

 

[California 72]

The beverage idea sounds really good
My history with paint is, everything I knew is not what’s new.

That said, please cringe and comment. Imron was the dig daddy of paints when I was at the tail end of cars. So, lacquer and clear coat or enamel was it.

We taped all our stripes or color changes to provide a seamless blend. Heck, feather fill was just coming in too. That was a learning curve all by itself but my one time was all I got.

The last car I shot was a ‘76 Toyota Corolla I purchased from my father in my effort to appease him as a move away from V-8 performance. Long, sorted and very touchy subject there so, moving on. I used an enamel and it took forever to cure because of the temps from an old kerosene heater that couldn’t be used while painting.

I’m not sure of the complete VHT history, I just don’t remember hearing of them in ‘79. But the point is, I think paint has grown 3 generations, at the least since that cold winter day in 1980.

As far as prep goes, we wiped down with whatever we had the most of or a combination of everything. I chose Acetone because it removes anything and everything petroleum based, even organic like skin if you exposed yourself too much.

VHT doesn’t recommend anything that I can find so I’m stepping back to what I remembered.

I’d say we did pretty good given one of our group's cars, a 1968 Charger painted Hemi orange with the Black rear stripe, was at 1982 Carcraft nationals in Springfield Illinois and, memory fuzzy here, I think it was a judge's favorite or an honorable mention (?) or maybe it was 3rd for what class I cannot remember. The one remarkable thing about that car was, it was painted and reassembled in a day or so before the drive down from Chicago and all we could worry about was, did the paint cure enough or were we going to have waves of paint leading to the rear of the car.

Anyhow, everything has changed so much, I’m actually suffering a fear block over painting this car for the very reasons you mentioned If there is something that’s cost effective and not $20 bucks a can from Eastwood, help is needed and welcomed please, by all means and sources.

Thanks for posting too.

 

[MikeGriese]

Modern coatings are on the spendy side, that's a fact. At least the ones that last. And they are much less likely to kill you.

 

[California 72]

Modern coatings are on the spendy side, that's a fact. At least the ones that last. And they are much less likely to kill you.

Actually, it’s the stress between pricey and being the applicator that’s killing me.

There will be dozens more questions so all I’m asking is the collective Master level of experience throw a bone my way from time to time.

In the end, it’s always easier with a little help from my friends and today, they’re age old to new here. The definition has changed a bit, with forums but the core meaning remains. People who have a few shared and sometimes opposing interests and opinions help each other out with an approach that’s a little bit of everything.

Like I said, talk keep the comments coming and I’ll figure it out.
Thanks again

 

[cjstaci]

I agree with Mike, follow the directions to the letter. I would recommend grease and wax remover. after that, for any bare metal you can use a chemical called Metal Prep. After applying it, it will turn the bare metal a light rust color. Then you can paint.

 

[California 72]

Copy that.

 

[rvanamb]

My two cents speedokote.com they direct ship their paints and primer. I used their epoxy primer on my car after I completely stripped it. Pretty good stuff and only 140 something for a gallon. They also have a product similar to rhino liner that may be good for painting the frame and undercarriage. Good quality at a reasonable price. I painted my few rust spots with por15 and while pricey, was also pretty good stuff. The issue with stuff in an aerosol can is unless it is 2k having a bladder in it you rupture before using it would never get as hard as a paint you mix yourself that has a short pot life.

 

[California 72]

Options are good. It's interesting to hear there's so much more available now. Do you have any pics of the finished area with what you used and where?

 

[tony-muscle]

I use Eastwood After Blast before I paint any metal. It works as a cleaner, adds some rust protection and etches the metal to increase paint/primer adhesion. The gallon jug goes a long way. I have had mine for a few years already and used it over every metal surface I have painted.

 

[California 72]

I use Eastwood After Blast before I paint any metal. It works as a cleaner, adds some rust protection and etches the metal to increase paint/primer adhesion. The gallon jug goes a long way. I have had mine for a few years already and used it over every metal surface I have painted.

I saw that on the site and actually in one of their videos about the differences in paint. Just curious, how far does a can go?

 

[Gold Rush]

Used two cans to do the frame rails front to back including the subframe connectors and both rockers. Still have a little left in one can if I need it.

 

[MOTORCITYBADBOY]

For anyone considering doing their own paint, this fella gives a lot of education..
https://www.youtube.com/@PaintSociety

 

[tony-muscle]

I saw that on the site and actually in one of their videos about the differences in paint. Just curious, how far does a can go?

I got the gallon jug. I have used it for the floors, subframe connectors, trunk, battery apron and the many other mods and still have left so it goes a long way. I use it from a spray bottle that I refill from the jug as needed.

 

[California 72]

We're coming to a full circle on this paint stuff and all I've been able to accomplish is create a completely dizzying and confused state. As I started out, everyone mentioned to follow can instructions and that's never been a problem unless instructions are vague at best. Even when you visit a website or do a search trying to find more info, everything leads back to the original statement, in this case for VHT Rollbar and Chassis paint (actually with all VHT paints, no primer is necessary but that comes with the caveat that primer will improve the adhesion on some surfaces. So, again I search for primers and the same thing happens, every opinion found states that no primer is necessary.

Maybe asking a different question here would help. The only way I can figure this out is, if I don't use primer, exactly how long would it take for the cars condition to show issues?

I ask this because I would like the car last for as long as our daughter wants to keep it without having to perform another restoration. I figure I've got maybe if I'm really lucky, 13-15 years of being able to drive the car. That's also assuming that Comp Cams will ever have the cam I need in stock again.

I understand how to make things last so, I do wish to use primer and create better adhesion surface for the paint, and something stated by VHT directly, what primers work well? I saw they sell an Engine primer; would that be acceptable? Because I can't find a single product that matches up with the temp characteristics and from what I've read, you cannot put a lower temp paint under a higher temp paint without something failing.

Eastwood actually makes the problem really easy to solve with their 2K paints because they have a dedicated, by chemistry, primer albeit a very pricy solution since it's a one and done can without a shelf-life past a very short amount of time. Chemical reaction versus evaporation, in which evaporation is technically a chemical reaction but not what we're talking about here.

Thanks for the past, present and future help with things.

 

[midlife]

A good epoxy primer after all body work is the best way to go. If you let it cure too long, you may have to scuff it for adhesion. Most folks like the Dupont LF epoxies; it comes in a couple of colors to help enhance the base coat color.

 

[MikeGriese]

Eastwood's stuff is pretty good, and it has gotten a lot better over the years, but if you want something that has to be done once and last for decades, you might want to look elsewhere. The reason I say that is that I have never seen a professional body shop use Eastwood products - particularly ones that focus on restorations versus say a shop that does a higher volume of modern car repairs.

 

[California 72]

A good epoxy primer after all body work is the best way to go. If you let it cure too long, you may have to scuff it for adhesion. Most folks like the Dupont LF epoxies; it comes in a couple of colors to help enhance the base coat color.

Eastwood's stuff is pretty good, and it has gotten a lot better over the years, but if you want something that has to be done once and last for decades, you might want to look elsewhere. The reason I say that is that I have never seen a professional body shop use Eastwood products - particularly ones that focus on restorations versus say a shop that does a higher volume of modern car repairs.

Thanks for responses guys. I ended up getting the Eastwood After Blast metal prep and frame coating and the Duplicolor Old Ford Blue, VHT High temp grey primer for the motor.

For the misc parts, the Seymour Iron Grey and their matching self-etching grey primer both rate at 250deg F. For the motor bay, chose the VHT Rollbar and Chassis satin and I'll be using the self-etching primer from Seymour as well. I did visit the Seymour site and purchased directly from there and not NPD or others. Takes a bit more time sorting thru the products but in the end, it's a better deal.

I did look at other options and it all came down to budget. The decades thing does play heavily but I'm also factoring in the use. The motor, once it's in, barring any "oil pan or valve cover failures" the work in their will be normal maintenance. My only dilemma is if I ever decide to swap out those stock 4v manifolds I just purchased and any damage from knocking around installing those might cause. The chances of any salt contact from any winter driving will be nil, and any engine bay washes will be limited to soap and water but if I'm not causing failures or using it in off weather, then those will be few and far between.

In reality, I can add additional coats of the Rollbar and Chassis paint as long as I follow the application method prescribed. All coats within one hour or after forty-eight. That's because it will be a while before I get this motor work and parts purchases finalized.

After forgetting to order the flame-resistant stuff for the manifold's, just need to follow up on that sooner or later today.

Thanks again.