Programmable ignition timing?

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Joined
Jul 14, 2010
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Location
Queensland, OZ
My Car
71 Mach 1
Hi guys. I just want to revisit this topic to see what is out there. I am convinced that I am losing significant power by using a normal with a generic curve.

I'd like to gauge how many users have actually gone to the trouble to get their dizzies recurved vs buying a dizzy with programmable timing vs using a separate programmable ignition box or even a crank trigger setup. There's a few ways to go, some cheaper than others. I'd like to gauge what gives the best bang for buck.

Any advice welcome. Jim.

 
Hi guys. I just want to revisit this topic to see what is out there. I am convinced that I am losing significant power by using a normal with a generic curve.

I'd like to gauge how many users have actually gone to the trouble to get their dizzies recurved vs buying a dizzy with programmable timing vs using a separate programmable ignition box or even a crank trigger setup. There's a few ways to go, some cheaper than others. I'd like to gauge what gives the best bang for buck.

Any advice welcome. Jim.
Jim, what kind of dizzy do you have?

They are generally not that hard to recurve.

I agree that significant benefits can be realized with a recurve.

The programmable stuff is nice but you can probably get 98% of the performance for 5% of the cost recurving what you have.

 
Hi guys. I just want to revisit this topic to see what is out there. I am convinced that I am losing significant power by using a normal with a generic curve.

I'd like to gauge how many users have actually gone to the trouble to get their dizzies recurved vs buying a dizzy with programmable timing vs using a separate programmable ignition box or even a crank trigger setup. There's a few ways to go, some cheaper than others. I'd like to gauge what gives the best bang for buck.

Any advice welcome. Jim.
Thanks for the reply... I've got the same setup pretty much. I'm not trying to squeeze the last bit of power out of the motor, just trying to confirm that it can run better with a curve more tuned to suit the cam,etc. I got rid of the ford dual point which was on their and bought a generic electronic which is doing the job reliably but is not adjustable in mech or vac. I noticed that there's some nice one's out there with many preprogrammed curves adjustable in seconds with a little screwdriver. These are about 350 plus delivery to au... Then I read somewhere that pertronix have a programmable module for some of their dizzies.

My real question I suppose is how can we know if our engines can benefit from a different tune if they are already running normal.

?

 
On a typical na engine the curve is going to do almost nothing for power over getting the correct total advance with any other curve(full advance should be in for a typical wot run). What it might help is drivability...

 
I've convinced myself that I need(want) the crane pro curve dizzy pn: 1000-1605. It has a total of 27 combinations of curves including vacc and also has a built in load sensor (map sensor). The other close option is the jaycar kit you build. This will replace the dizzy timing completely with an LCD programmable module. It has the facility to talk to a map sensor and knock sensor. The jaycar kit is by far the cheapest option with the most granular control over ignition but is a heap more work to make and install compared to the crane pro curve dizzy which you install and away you go.

 
There is another option, that uses a TFI distributor & module, that also requires building at home:

http://www.gofastforless.com/ignition/tfi.htm

I think that before I spent $400 dollars for the Crane distributor I would go ahead and get the Holley Terminator with engine management, and have fuel injection and programmable ignition (my day dream).

 
Both Don c and Silverback make very valid points. For a given street car drivability is the key and fuel injection is always better. A computer controlled system with adjustbke mapping is what a new Ferrari come with from the factory. Our cars came with carbs and mechanical timing and ran pretty damned good. But needed to be constantly adjusted. Especially in the cold states. Add altitude and you gotta have a lot of knowledge or a smart and cheap mechanic. My biggest gripe now it that a great running 400hp Cleveland drinks more 92 octane than i drink bourbon. And that sux. So getting more fuel economy while keeping crisp throttle response with easy starting and reliability is my focus. Best i have come up with so far is a MSD with magnetic pickup in the dizzy and an electronic VR hooked to a new alt, and a mild jetted holly 670. Seems to hit the mark for reasonable dollars spent n

 
I am trying the MSD Atomic EFI unit to control my timing. I actually didn't know that I could do this until I ran across this You Tube video.



Probably not a very cost effective way to do this but one of my goals for my restoration was to bring the car up to present technology without changing the looks. The EFI unit looks just like a carb and the ECM can be hidden so you wouldn't really notice the changes at a quick glance. I'll let you know what I think of this system when I have the motor running again.

-jbojo

 
I bit the bullet and bought a pertronix billet plug n play ignitor 3 dizzy...

It's ok, I've got the tow truck number on speed dial....hehe

I've read quite a bit about it on the net, it just worries me a bit when all these people on other forums cannot praise it enough, but most of them keep a spare ignitor 3 module in the car!!!

 
Very happy with it.

Car seems to run better.

Has easy to adjust mech adv springs for the ignition curve.

Well made.

It's just bigger than I expected it to be.

I'd recommend the flame thrower 111 coil to suit due to the low ohms requirements.

 
Very happy with it.

Car seems to run better.

Has easy to adjust mech adv springs for the ignition curve.

Well made.

It's just bigger than I expected it to be.

I'd recommend the flame thrower 111 coil to suit due to the low ohms requirements.
Thanks for the feedback Jim. I have been leaning towards the MSD system, so was good to read all the info here on this site. I will keep your feedback in mind, I need to make a decision this week.

 
On a side note, l bought it because of all the unique features of the ignitor 111 module.

I was determined to keep it at any cost.

I wasn't happy that it was too tall for my ram air filter base but I bit the bullet and modified the aftermarket base to suit.

I ordered the female cap as the hei style cap is about 3/4 inch taller again.

Anyway, it's all done now and I'm happy with it.

Especially the cranking ignition retarding feature since my initial is at about 18 degrees adv.

 
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